Carbs leaking fuel 1988 force 125hp

[Josecaliente]

Is it still leaking ??
Take a pic of the needles next to a ruler, post it.
I might have them and can send them to you free.
The backfire could be from too much fuel or the timing's off?
Or it's sucking air from somewhere? Do the starting fluid test, start motor and spray SF around the intake side of the motor, that includes the port covers and carb bases. If the SF makes a difference??? then it's sucking air
someplace???
.

I haven’t rechecked the timing since I set it a month ago but it was off a month ago due to a broken plastic end on control rod (plastic piece you adjust during timing test). I plastic welded it back together and set timing to 28 degrees BTDC in my driveway. Never rechecked while on the water to see if I get 30 degrees BTDC while motor was under load. I’ll definitely take a pic of old needles when I get home and send that too you. Thanks!

 

[WinnerCougar74]

If the fuel is spitting out while it's running then you should check your reeds. If they aren't closing completely then fuel will spit or "leak" out the front of the carb while it's running.

 

[Josecaliente]

Is it still leaking ??
Take a pic of the needles next to a ruler, post it.
I might have them and can send them to you free.
The backfire could be from too much fuel or the timing's off?
Or it's sucking air from somewhere? Do the starting fluid test, start motor and spray SF around the intake side of the motor, that includes the port covers and carb bases. If the SF makes a difference??? then it's sucking air
someplace???
.

Sorry been out enjoying this weather as of late on the boat. Here is the pic of the old needle

 

[pnwboat]

Just for clarification.....when you say the carbs are leaking, are you saying that the fuel is spitting out of the mouth of the carburetors?

Is this happening only at initial start up or is it doing it while running ?

 

[jerryjerry05]

I'll look and see if I have that.

 

[Josecaliente]

Just for clarification.....when you say the carbs are leaking, are you saying that the fuel is spitting out of the mouth of the carburetors?

Is this happening only at initial start up or is it doing it while running ?

I haven’t checked while running I’ll do that this week. It definitely does spit out on the initial startup though. It will “sneeze” when choking to start then right will start right up after that.

 

[jerryjerry05]

The sneeze is ok as long as it isn't backfiring.
Backfiring can blow the port cover gaskets.
That will allow the motor to suck air and cause
major problems.
Once it starts, do the starting fluid test, spray SF
around the intake side, under the coils/packs and
bases of the carbs. If that makes any difference
in the way it runs, it's sucking air somewhere??

I didn't get to check the needles yesterday, had an
eye Drs. appt. and they dilatated my eyes and I
couldn't see anything till 7pm.

 

[Josecaliente]

A word of caution. If the material that the floats are made of are the hard foam stuff, they may not be a buoyant as they were when they were new. This will affect the float level setting. You have to either replace them or if using the old floats, set the float level so that they are about 1/16th of an inch farther away from the body of the carb than what the manual indicates. The replacement floats that I've seen are plastic and the tab isn't really adjustable. I found a set of brass floats and they work great.

Where did you find the brass floats? I tried using the plastic replacement and they didn’t work at all

 

[jerryjerry05]

They don't make them anymore, and the plastic is JUNK>
Try Franz Marine or marine salvage yards.
Ebay has carb sets but very expensive

 

[Josecaliente]

They don't make them anymore, and the plastic is JUNK>
Try Franz Marine or marine salvage yards.
Ebay has carb sets but very expensive

Hey @jerryjerry05 you asked before where my screws where set on my carbs. Is there a set amount of turns out they should be? Or is every situation different? I currently have them set 1 and 1/4 turn out. Motor is 1251x8c

 

[puffitu]

1.25 turns out is a good start; then adjust from there. Really important the floats are set correct though and no debris blocking the needles from movement.

 

[jerryjerry05]

Top carb.Start at 1 1/2 turn out and adjust from there.
If it doesn't idle maybe anther 1/2 turn out?
The adjustment, motor warm, in the water and in gear.
Turn the screw 1/8th turn in and wait 10 seconds, continue until the motor bucks coughs or stalls then out 1/2 turn.
Then repeat on the bottom.
I usually do the procedure 2X
IF??? there's a backfire or a big cough, the port cover gaskets con blow out
and start sucking air??
If you suspect the motors sucking air? D the starting spray test.
Start the motor and spray around the intake side and if this makes the motor run different??? it's sucking air.

Just got a 92 25hp. Johnson.
It started and ran but not good.
Comp ok, spark ok, so I did the starting fluid test.
Turns out the reed plate gasket was leaking.
I replaced it and now it runs great.
Sold it.

 

[Josecaliente]

Top carb.Start at 1 1/2 turn out and adjust from there.
If it doesn't idle maybe anther 1/2 turn out?
The adjustment, motor warm, in the water and in gear.
Turn the screw 1/8th turn in and wait 10 seconds, continue until the motor bucks coughs or stalls then out 1/2 turn.
Then repeat on the bottom.
I usually do the procedure 2X
IF??? there's a backfire or a big cough, the port cover gaskets con blow out
and start sucking air??
If you suspect the motors sucking air? D the starting spray test.
Start the motor and spray around the intake side and if this makes the motor run different??? it's sucking air.

Just got a 92 25hp. Johnson.
It started and ran but not good.
Comp ok, spark ok, so I did the starting fluid test.
Turns out the reed plate gasket was leaking.
I replaced it and now it runs great.
Sold it.

So I tried that starter fluid test and I didn’t see any difference in the rpms. Im starting from Square one today after work. Doing the link and synch again and timing test. Taking the carbs off too to check condition of reeds. I’m starting to think the old carb floats might be bad? I’m going to take them out tonight and stick them in some gas to see if they float or sink. Had the boat out yesterday and the motor was smoking a lot. Like way more than normal so maybe the floats aren’t able to hit the jets?

 

[racerone]

What do you mean by---" floats won't hit the jets "----Have you done a compression test ?----Do you have spark on all leads ?

 

[Josecaliente]

What do you mean by---" floats won't hit the jets "----Have you done a compression test ?----Do you have spark on all leads ?

I don’t know a ton about motors so forgive me if I’m wrong but I thought the floats cut off fuel supplies to carb bowl by hitting the needle in the carb? I did compression 2 years ago there wasn’t much difference in each cylinder. And yup I have spark on all leads. Even changed out all the old boots.

 

[racerone]

Floats control fuel level with a needle / in a brass fitting.----Called a float valve.-----Jets meter fuel into the airstream going through the carburetor.----When you spray fuel into a carburetor the motor MUST respond somehow.

 

[Josecaliente]

Floats control fuel level with a needle / in a brass fitting.----Called a float valve.-----Jets meter fuel into the airstream going through the carburetor.----When you spray fuel into a carburetor the motor MUST respond somehow.

That being said if my floats don’t float then there’s no way to control the fuel level right?

 

[puffitu]

Post a good vid with the motor running

 

[Josecaliente]

I took the carbs off and it doesn’t look like the idle tube is set right per the book. See pictures attached

 

[puffitu]

Your float has a hole in it if I’m not mistaken and yes the tube needs to make contact