Carb help 1988 115 6 cylinder

[Kenmartin1]

Am I missing something here? The only way I could get a socket or wrench on my carb bolts was to remove the top of the float bowl first. Surely there’s a way to remove a complete carburetor without taking it apart!

 

[racerone]

It is a good idea to remove the 3 carburetors as a set.------Prevents breaking the 2 linkages between the carburetors.-----Why are you looking to remove the carburetors ?

 

[Chris1956]

Some Mercs like your IL6, are pretty compact. You should remove the three carb bowl covers as an assembly, followed by the carb bodies.

The plastic linkages between carbs are fragile and attach to the bottom carb.

Of course, before taking the carb bowl covers off, disconnect the electric cable, remove the wrap cowling, top cowling, and top and rear cowling supports. Now remove the starter, and the carbs will be much more accessible. I like a 1/4" socket wrench to remove the carb mounting nuts.

Hopefully you have a service manual, if you plan to tune that machine.

 

[Kenmartin1]

Ok, I did remove bowls first. It just seems weird. I do have the manual. Rebuilding carbs, motor sat for 4 years. Gaskets, needles and seats and new floats. Good compression in all cylinders. Does anyone know where to buy the small brown vent tubing that runs across top of carb from the fuel bowl? I hate to leave any old hoses. Thanks everyone.

 

[racerone]

If those are the " back drag tubes "----You might want to look into getting rid of them.

 

[Kenmartin1]

I was reading something about people putting a bb in them. What is the reason people block them?

 

[Chris1956]

Back drag carbs use that tube to introduce the vacuum from the carb throats into the carb bowl. This causes a partial vacuum in the carb bowls. This partial vacuum acts to lean out the fuel-air mixture at higher RPMs, to save fuel.

I never had a bit of trouble with that system, however, some owners think they are bad for the motor.