Can't shift after bellows/lower shift cable change with Bravo 3.

dubs283

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Perhaps the issue is with the shift yoke/clutch

Or a gear race

Had one friction welded in fwd gear once, that was fun to load the boat on the trailer
 

alldodge

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Disconnect cable from shift plate, this will give you enough room to pull the drive out
 

nytevizion

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Perhaps the issue is with the shift yoke/clutch

Or a gear race

Had one friction welded in fwd gear once, that was fun to load the boat on the trailer
Perhaps the issue is with the shift yoke/clutch

Or a gear race

Had one friction welded in fwd gear once, that was fun to load the boat on the trailer
Wouldn't I have heard something if this happened? Seems like some serious bad luck to go from a bellow/shifter cable change to a broken drive while sitting in the driveway.
 

dubs283

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Wouldn't I have heard something if this happened?

Maybe

I'm just speculating here. I have no fair witness of your setup save for info you provide

Something is definitely broken/out of spec adjustment

Let's put a pin in this and rehash once the lower cable is replaced oem
 

alldodge

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A shift cable is pretty simple item and doubt a aftermarket would cause this issue, unless something went real wrong with manufacture
 

dubs283

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unless something went real wrong with manufacture

That is something I do have fair witness of

Certain components need oem replacement, others are okay aftermarket

I can count on one hand the number of aftermarket shift cables I've seen work proper
 

nytevizion

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I managed to extract the link bar. It took quite a bit more effort to move than before, so that was confusing. Everyone will be happy to know that I damaged the shifter cable in the process so I will have no choice but to buy another. OEM :p

QUESTION: Looking at the images, the drive is currently in reverse with the jaws out and exposed, correct? So when I reinstall the drive with the engine side un-attached, the cable will not push that link bar in. So, do I manually push it back to the neutral position, with my fingers while bringing the drive and bell housing together? I assume the neutral position is the second image.
IMG_7431.jpgIMG_7430.jpg
 

alldodge

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Re attach the cable before trying to install, but fist figure out why it was so hard. Cable, drive, something else
 

nytevizion

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Re attach the cable before trying to install, but fist figure out why it was so hard. Cable, drive, something else
I thought it was supposed to be difficult to move when the engine isn't turning the input shaft?
That doesn't answer the question though.
Should the link bar be pushed back into the drive as shown in the second image before drive is attached to bell housing?
 

dubs283

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First picture in post #28 depicts the proper setting for installing the drive to the bell housing

With the remote in neutral and cables installed and adjusted properly the drive will be shifted into neutral as it is installed
 

nytevizion

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As the drive sits in the garage, how hard should it be to advance/shift the link bar by hand? It does move, it's smooth and seems like its really the ball detent that causing the resistance. How much resistance from that ball should there be? seems like it needs a good amount of pressure before it slides in and out of the cradle.

Should I polish the cradle on the lever with a Dremel or something?
 

alldodge

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Do you think the cable is pushing the cable to far in, so it goes past neutral and starts going into FWD?

I'll go back to previous comment. You should be able to shift the drive F/N/R with motor running by hand. Should take very little effort to hold the cable and push in in/out changing gears
 

dubs283

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You can rotate the input/slpined/ujoint assembly and shift the drive by hand with it removed from the bell housing

Rotate the shaft clockwise (looking at it), this will simulate the lh rotation engine providing movement. At times a vise grip/long needle nose pliers is required to move the shift linkage fore and aft with above mentioned rotation of the input shaft
 

nytevizion

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Reinstalled drive, attached cable. Shifting properly now. I'm really not sure it was the aftermarket cable because it was pretty stuck in neutral. Working the shifter linkage back and forth manually with the drive off seamed to free it up. Maybe the ball detent refused to compress because it hydraulically locked with too much grease?
I don't know, but it's done and shifts smooth and easily. Will test tomorrow on the water.
 
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