Can't Remove Flame Arrestor

[TyeeMan]

I'm going to need some help on this. I'm winterizing my boat today, oil change went well, installed new oil and filter, I went to remove the flame arrestor as I wanted to 1) fog the engine, 2) I need to clean the flame arrestor as it's dirty.
Last year (1st year I owned this boat) the flame arrestor came off just fine. This year this spring I had a transom kit installed, engine alignment, etc. Well, they must have had to raise the engine quite a bit to align it because now there isn't enough clearance to remove the flame arrestor. The carb is a Weber 4-barrel, there are two metal things that stick up on each side, just to the side of the venturies, they area about 3/16" too tall. Each one is held in place by a small screw.
I'm wondering A) what are these things? B) Can I simply remove the small screw, remove the metal thing and trim them down a bit? And also remove the flame arrestor?

Any help will be greatly appreciated!


I'll try to post a couple pictures, hope it works.
Having trouble uploading pictures, the file is too big and my phone camera is already at it's lowest setting, , or whatever you call it

 

[sogood]

I've just looked at some pics I had on my phone, taken as part of a carb rebuild and I can't see any
" metal things" sticking up. The only thing that comes to mind are the two brackets that would hold the crankcase vent lines in place at the arrestor.

If that's the case they should be easily removed and modified in whatever way needed. Pics would certainly help.

 

[alldodge]

The carb is a Weber 4-barrel, there are two metal things that stick up on each side, just to the side of the venturies, they area about 3/16" too tall. Each one is held in place by a small screw.

I think I know what your talking about, but post a pic to verify

 

[TyeeMan]

Thanks. Yeah I'm trying feverishly to upload some pics.
These two "things" fit just inside the base of the flame arrestor.
Incidentally the engine is a 5 year old Mercury Remanufacturing 357. Basically a bored out 5.7L to 5.8L

 

[TyeeMan]

Sheesh, I just can't get the pic to 2.0 mb. I'll try a close up see if that makes a difference.

 

[TyeeMan]

Just can't compress the picture small enough. Not sure what to do.

 

[alldodge]

Your not talking about this

 

[TyeeMan]

Unfortunately not. The two things I have are little stamped steel things that are at 9:00 and 3:00 in relation to the stud that holds the flame arrestor in place.

 

[Bondo]

Ayuh,... Wrong carb AD, Weber, not Qudrajet,....

He's talkin' 'bout the little air deflectors that also hold the needles in place,....

I'd grind on the boat, before grindin' those tabs,...

 

[TyeeMan]

Is that what those are? Yeah they seem like they hold something in place.
There's just enough room that I could loosen the small hold down screw on the air deflector. Could I remove one air deflector to get the flame arrestor off, then re- install it when I put the flame arrestor back on or would that mess up carb settings/adjustments.
The carb is a Weber 750 cfm, , for what is worth.

 

[alldodge]

Still need pics, but I would do nothing to the carb what so ever.

I would first remove the drive and make sure the alignment is correct. If it is, cut the arrestor off the carb and find another that will fit on without issue, or maybe cut the boat

 

[mr300z87]

I think this photo show what the OP is talking about. I wondered what they were for. My carter carb (similar) on my 68 Plymouth does not have them neither did the Edelbrock I put on my Sea Ray this past summer. They screw on with the metering rod cover. If you remove the screw the metering rod spring will push the metering rods up.

 

[Bondo]

There's just enough room that I could loosen the small hold down screw on the air deflector. Could I remove one air deflector to get the flame arrestor off, then re- install it when I put the flame arrestor back on or would that mess up carb settings/adjustments.
The carb is a Weber 750 cfm, , for what is worth.

Ayuh,.... My guess is, if ya try that, you'll drop that little tiny torx screw down into the carb, than have to take the carb off to retrieve it,...

What, Exactly is above it blockin' removal,..??

As AD, I'm curious as to why it needed so much alignment adjustment,..

 

[Fun Times]

In the link below on page 5B-27 step # 5 says regarding the air deflectors and metering rod covers; (Loosen (not necessary to remove, depending on amount of service required) metering rod cover screws. Turn cover, or remove, to expose metering rod.) which may suggest loosing the screw a bit may help also turn the air deflector out of the way some.....< But honestly memory is trying to say turning them didn't seem to work for me before....So be careful. Maybe before messing with the screws you may want to put a rag down inside the crab opening area to help catch the screw should it fall inwards on you should you try this route.

Page 5B-41 says, IMPORTANT: Some carburetors are equipped with air deflectors that are attached to the screw that holds down the metering rod covers. Be sure to reinstall the deflectors if your model carburetor requires them.

http://www.marinemechanic.com/books/...ebber-carb.pdf

Also out of curiosity; 'On your way down to the lower pages in the link above, stop on pages 5B-8 and 9 to see what design metering rod piston cover assembly ( 2 or 3 step design) your carb has. Either it has a flat cover or a bumped out/up cover.

 

[TyeeMan]

Mr300z87, yep your picture is exactly what I'm talking about, those two %$&*# metal things on each side held down with little screws.

Bondo - On my Lund the engine is mounted such that basically from center of the carb back, that entire portion of the engine is tucked in the boat. So what is above the carb, the "deck" of the boat, and it's all structural if you will. There is a little compartment that I can store the bimini top in and it's all bent riveted/welded aluminum. The engine housing only covers about the front 1/2 of the engine.

Fun Times - Thanks a ton for the link. I have the two step, flat piston covers. yeah, if I do anything with the carb I'm covering, or stuffing something into the venturies. The first thing I thought of when looking at those tiny screws was, , I can see one of those going right down the hole.

I kind of thought that much engine adjustment was a little strange as well, but I will say this, she's a lot quieter and smoother than last year.

I have an idea that I'm going to try when I get home from work. I'll let you know if it works, , and hopefully it will not entail messing with the carb. I don't think I have a wrench that small anyhow and the angle is such that I couldn't get a torx driver in there.

Thanks all for you input!!

 

[TyeeMan]

Triumph over the flame arrestor!! I removed 4 screws holding what I could describe as a facia board to the floor.
A well placed wood block on the riser and a 3 foot pry bar and I bought myself just enough room to get the flame arrestor out. Had to remove the hold down stud too.
It sounds worse than it was, didn't have to get on the persuasion bar much at all.

Whew, I'll have to enter that note into the maintenance book for next year.

 

[TyeeMan]

I would have loved to post some pictures, not sure what devilry is involved with that, just couldn't make it work.
As soon as I got the picture size below 2.0 mb, I then would get an error mesage stating I had too many bytes over the allowed 400000 bytes.

I give up.

 

[alldodge]

Guess you need something like photoshop or powerpoint to resize, otherwise need to email someone which can do it for ya

 

[alldodge]

Pic's a plenty

 

[alldodge]

That is close, and I would look into seeing how much I could cut off the underside of the ridge. Do this after checking alignment