Camper Van as Tow Vehicle

[Pusher]

I am now running to work in the van and have a follow-up question.

While running at highway speeds it is smooth and steady but when accelerating heavily there is a very slight tick. Also when idling it has a slight cavitation or bump if that's the wrong word. It's almost like it's missing a beat but I thought for sure that I put the spark plug leads in the correct order and all the leads seemed to be connected to the spark plugs correctly. The bump in the motors vibration is pretty rythmic.

The left exhaust manifold was the one leaking exhaust. I replace the exhaust manifold which never had a gasket. That original ticking sound is now gone. I never touched the right side exhaust manifold which likely also doesn't have an exhaust gasket.

Another change to the vehicle since I last ran it was a spark plug change. The original plugs which did look like originals, Were gapped to .72. When I put the new ones in I gaped them to .32.

And the last change I did was the left spark plug leads were changed but not the right side.

Should I be worried about the hesitation and the slight tick in acceleration, or should I run a full tank of fuel through and see how that does?

 

[avenger79]

hmm big difference in plug gapping. Is .032 the recommended gap per the manual? I thought it would be a bit larger gap.
"slight tick" on accel could be many things, depends really on how slight.
the "rough" idle, trying to remember if mid 90's had the variable timing, I don't think they did, my 2013 Chevy tends to make some minor noises so some things are normal.

I do think I would have tried to swap both manifold gaskets and definitely all of the plug wires rather than just one side.

 

[Pusher]

hmm big difference in plug gapping. Is .032 the recommended gap per the manual? I thought it would be a bit larger gap.
"slight tick" on accel could be many things, depends really on how slight.
the "rough" idle, trying to remember if mid 90's had the variable timing, I don't think they did, my 2013 Chevy tends to make some minor noises so some things are normal.

I do think I would have tried to swap both manifold gaskets and definitely all of the plug wires rather than just one side.

Well, I'll be buying an owner's manual. I googled and the blazer forums all said .032 was good, but looking on other forums seemed to say .50, so now you've pointed out I can't wing it. I was also thinking that you were hinting at the fact that maybe the slight tick I heard has always been there but unnoticed since the left manifold was too loud for the right manifold leak to be heard.

The van's engine compartment is so tight on the right side that getting the leads out is almost impossible. I wanted to replace them, but I spent more time getting two plugs replaced than I've ever spent on all eight on my other vehicles. After 2-3 hours in the heat I couldn't do much more.

I'll get a manual, mount the new received and build a sink setup while burning through a tank of gas. It seems to run fine so you're probably right about the idle rythm.


The Tundra is almost done with the cleaning, so I'll be posting to Craigslist after a trial tow run with the van.

Thanks again for all the help!

 

[aspeck]

Slight tick ... an exhaust tick or a spark tick? A bad wire arching/sparking against the manifold or the exhaust manifold leaking? My guess with the manifold leak on the one side, you could not hear the bad plug wire on the other ... I would lean towards replacing the plug wires on the other side now and be done with all the wires. But then I am reading a description, not hearing it myself... good luck!

 

[avenger79]

Slight tick ... an exhaust tick or a spark tick? A bad wire arching/sparking against the manifold or the exhaust manifold leaking? My guess with the manifold leak on the one side, you could not hear the bad plug wire on the other ... I would lean towards replacing the plug wires on the other side now and be done with all the wires. But then I am reading a description, not hearing it myself... good luck!

exactly what I was getting at.

Pusher I know exactly what you mean about the fit in there. I did 10 COP's on my dually I did it 1 or 2 at a time and bled from almost all of them LOL and that truck had more room than the van. I have worked on a few vans over the years. it gets interesting to say the least.

 

[Pusher]

Haha, I hear you on the blood. The fiberglass insulation was a nice twist too

Well, I've been busy cleaning up the Tundra. I have an interested party picking it up on Friday. In the meantime I'm going salmon fishing for the first time this season and likely the last since our game department is shutting us down early...grrr.

I need a break from all this vehicle shuffling and stress at work, but I'll take both of your advice and replace them this month. I'll definitely get the manual and check the proper gaps too.

Another question has come up. Replacing the muffler to allow better flow can save gas. The only thing is... my muffler is rusted open (torn open really). Is there any benefit to replacing it since it's still quiet? The catalytic converters are still on there and looking good. Anything to note there?

 

[MTboatguy]

If you have a torn muffler, then replace it, they design mufflers now a days to take advantage of the correct flow of air, to derive the maximum power as well a fuel mileage out of them, uncontrolled flow is not maximizing and actually can create more back flow in the system which can rob power and mileage.

 

[Pusher]

Okay, so then I'll ask you this. If I have the guy in there already should I have him change the exhaust to y setup?

(I'm still trying to understand what a Y setup is)

 

[avenger79]

well by Y set up, I assume you mean dual pipes out the back.

my thoughts on it, and opinions vary.

you are using this as a tow vehicle. Keep the single out exhaust going out the side. dual outs, is great for looks and if you want to make a little more noise, the benefits of it performance wise are negligible,

so my opinion would be to have the exhaust swapped to a nice clean cat back system single in single out, exiting out the side. if your muffler is bad you may as well do the system.

my choice would be flowmaster 50 cat back SISO, but you have to determine if you want more noise etc. The 50 is almost unnoticable inside the vehicle. has a slight burble outside and gives modest perf increase.

 

[aspeck]

Y's look cool, but the flow is basically the same and there are more pipes to rust out and change. I am with avenger on the single side out and am too practical (some say cheap) to put extra money into something just for show.

 

[Pusher]

Thanks for the feedback guys! I was quoted $150 to do the muffler and replace the exhaust pipe from the muffler back, but another $600 to go forward to the motor. I thought the last quote was a bit expensive.... Maybe?

I'm definitely going for economy both in fuel and parts/repairs, so the y pipe is off the plate. I also don't like to hear exhaust noise, so thanks for the suggestion.

I've had to put the van on hold while cleaning up my new commuter vehicle (2002 subaru outback wagon). I'm doing the front left wheel bearing and thought I'd wrap it up tonight. Unfortunately, I pressed the spindle in crooked and blew out the sealed bearing's inner race. I was wondering if you could help clear this up for me.... besides confirming the spindle is started in straight, should I also be bracing the inside diameter of the inner race since the spindle is placing pressure on this part as I press it? In reading about pressing the sealed bearing into the hub it sounded like I should press on the outside iameter of the outter racer sice the resistance was on that part.

So, ......press on the outter diameter of the outer race when going into the hub, and reinforce the inner diameter of the inner race when pressing in the spindle?

The sealed bearing presses into the hub from the inside of the hub, then the spindle presses into the sealed bearing from the outside if the hub.

(Cv boots have been replaced too btw)

 

[MTboatguy]

Thanks for the feedback guys! I was quoted $150 to do the muffler and replace the exhaust pipe from the muffler back, but another $600 to go forward to the motor. I thought the last quote was a bit expensive.... Maybe?

I'm definitely going for economy both in fuel and parts/repairs, so the y pipe is off the plate. I also don't like to hear exhaust noise, so thanks for the suggestion.

I've had to put the van on hold while cleaning up my new commuter vehicle (2002 subaru outback wagon). I'm doing the front left wheel bearing and thought I'd wrap it up tonight. Unfortunately, I pressed the spindle in crooked and blew out the sealed bearing's inner race. I was wondering if you could help clear this up for me.... besides confirming the spindle is started in straight, should I also be bracing the inside diameter of the inner race since the spindle is placing pressure on this part as I press it? In reading about pressing the sealed bearing into the hub it sounded like I should press on the outside iameter of the outter racer sice the resistance was on that part.

So, ......press on the outter diameter of the outer race when going into the hub, and reinforce the inner diameter of the inner race when pressing in the spindle?

The sealed bearing presses into the hub from the inside of the hub, then the spindle presses into the sealed bearing from the outside if the hub.

(Cv boots have been replaced too btw)

I picked up a bearing tool kit from HF, they make it so much easier to install bearings correctly, I used to use the old socket trick and ruined to many bearing races over the years...The kit I picked up for HF allows you to install with even pressure on all the surfaces of the bearing race.

 

[Pusher]

I picked up a bearing tool kit from HF, they make it so much easier to install bearings correctly. The kit I picked up allows you to install with even pressure on all the surfaces of the bearing race.

Is this the kit?

 

[JASinIL2006]

Is this the kit?

Most auto parts stores will loan you one of those for no cost...

 

[MTboatguy]

Most auto parts stores will loan you one of those for no cost...

If they have them, living in a small town as I do, they are normally out of their loaner tools, which is why I just buy them, so I can have them around, when you own as many cars and trucks as I do and you live as far away from town as I do, it is just easier to own them.

 

[MTboatguy]

Is this the kit?

Yup

 

[JASinIL2006]

If they have them, living in a small town as I do, they are normally out of their loaner tools, which is why I just buy them, so I can have them around, when you own as many cars and trucks as I do and you live as far away from town as I do, it is just easier to own them.

Makes sense, especially if you use them frequently. I just mentioned it because it often is easy and cheap to get them as loaners (I live in a small town, too) and many folks don't know they might be available. I never begrudge anyone who wants to get more tools, though!

 

[MTboatguy]

Makes sense, especially if you use them frequently. I just mentioned it because it often is easy and cheap to get them as loaners (I live in a small town, too) and many folks don't know they might be available. I never begrudge anyone who wants to get more tools, though!

Actually next summer I am going to have a big tool sale, I am not wrenching as much as I used to and now I have 4 generations of tools in my garage, mine, that I have been buying for 40 years now, my Dad's who spent over 60 years buying, my Grandfathers who started collecting his stuff in the 20's and my cousins who started in the 60's, I am out of room! LOL

 

[avenger79]

do we get first pick of those tools LOL

 

[avenger79]

my thought is always if I needed it once I will probably need it again, may as well buy it.

plus like MT I live in the country so a "loaner" shop is at least a 20 mi ride for me than I have to drive the tool back to them.