Buying an '03 Sea Ray Sundeck 220

Ed Yez

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Looking for advice. I'm interested in purchasing an '03 Sundeck 220 that needs a repower. Obviously can't sea trial. Any common issues to look out for on these? Assuming the rest of the boat is ok, what's a fair price to pay?

I haven't seen it in person yet, don't know the hours, but it seems in good shape and seller states he has service records.
 

Scott Danforth

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first, why does it need a repower?

stored in salt?
lack of maintenence?
the 3-point drain system (aka block buster) failed?

you will probably need to spring for upholstery, resealing the port windows on the head, swap out the steering cable and control cables along with your repower.
 

alldodge

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Looking for advice. I'm interested in purchasing an '03 Sundeck 220 that needs a repower. Obviously can't sea trial. Any common issues to look out for on these? Assuming the rest of the boat is ok, what's a fair price to pay?

I haven't seen it in person yet, don't know the hours, but it seems in good shape and seller states he has service records.
Don't know of any common issues. If it was taken care of, once repowered you should be good.

That said, it all depends "IF" it was taken care of
 

Ed Yez

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Thanks for your replies. After messaging with the seller some more, the story I got is that he bought the boat from the 2nd owner earlier this year. Then this happened:received_296452956540625.png
The first RO is dated 7/7/23. He ran the boat until he started having issues. Took it back in and they told him salt water is getting in the engine and gave him this estimate:received_308972768660500.png

No detail as to whether the water is in the cylinders or crankcase or both. He's not a technical guy so getting any more info regarding this is difficult.

His asking price is reasonable and it's not going to cost me $9700 even if I have to replace the long block so I think I'll be ok.

I've read the switch panel on these are problematic, again, not a deal-breaker. I'm more interested in knowing if they're prone to any other issues.
 

Ed Yez

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Aug 15, 2022
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first, why does it need a repower?

stored in salt?
lack of maintenence?
the 3-point drain system (aka block buster) failed?

you will probably need to spring for upholstery, resealing the port windows on the head, swap out the steering cable and control cables along with your repower.
Yes, it's a saltwater boat. Definitely lack of maintenance, see above.

Upholstery looks good in the photos, no port windows. Cables are not a deal-breaker.
 

airshot

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After spending big bucks for a repower and all the other necessary work to bring the boat back to top working condition, what will it be worth ?? Do your math, would buying a newer boat already in top running condition be less costly ?? I could see an easy 10K in what you describe unless you have facilities to do everything yourself.
 

Ed Yez

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After spending big bucks for a repower and all the other necessary work to bring the boat back to top working condition, what will it be worth ?? Do your math, would buying a newer boat already in top running condition be less costly ?? I could see an easy 10K in what you describe unless you have facilities to do everything yourself.
Yes, I'll be doing everything myself. The price is right.
 

Lou C

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What about the fiberglass/wood composite structure? These are the most time consuming of all boat repairs so make sure to check those points as carefully as you can. Mechanical repairs are actually far easier & less time consuming than rot repairs….
The engine estimate only says that salt water is getting into the engine not HOW it’s getting into the engine. That makes a big difference as far as if it’s repairable without installing a new engine or not…
Possibilities:
Bad head gasket due to past overheat
Rusted out exhaust
Rusted out intake
Bad Vortec intake gaskets
A key factor is how long has salt water been in the engine.
 
Last edited:

Ed Yez

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What about the fiberglass/wood composite structure? These are the most time consuming of all boat repairs so make sure to check those points as carefully as you can. Mechanical repairs are actually far easier & less time consuming than rot repairs….
The engine estimate only says that salt water is getting into the engine not HOW it’s getting into the engine. That makes a big difference as far as if it’s repairable without installing a new engine or not…
Possibilities:
Bad head gasket due to past overheat
Rusted out exhaust
Rusted out intake
Bad Vortec intake gaskets
A key factor is how long has salt water been in the engine.
Yes, I will have to look at all of that. It's been parked on the trailer since September with water in the engine so I'm factoring in the worst-case and assuming a long block will be needed. If the water is in the cylinders, guaranteed the cylinder walls are pitted and the rings rusted to them by now. I'm factoring in the worst-case and assuming it's going to need a long block.
 

JimS123

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A 20 year old boat that was not maintained. LOL.....I don't think so.
 

Lou C

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Yep well if it’s been that long then yes that’s the way you may be going. I was able to re hab an engine that had salt water in it but it was only for a few days and multiple oil changes were done….
 

Ed Yez

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Well... I bought it. I made sure to get to the boatyard early, spoke to the mechanic there, they know the boat well. Said the crankcase filled up with water and the engine won't crank.

Seller said he had it out on the water maybe 10 times since the freeze plug repair. The last time he was out, he ran it until it stopped and had to get towed in.

Batteries are dead so I hook up my jumper box to check the electrical items and I figured what the hell, I turn the key and it started right up and idled smoothly! No strange noises either and had 15 PSI of pressure. Can't call it oil pressure because it was pumping water at the time. I get the boat home and suck out 9 quarts of straight water through the dipstick tube. The remaining milkshake is too thick to suck out so my plan is to get that stuff out, put some clean oil in it and run it for a minute or two. Not running it on the muffs, I don't care if I burn out the impeller. I want to see if it has normal oil pressure, rev it a bit and listen. I think if it gets this far, there's a good chance the bottom end is ok. I'm going to flush out the oil to get all the contamination out and then take off the intake and the heads, looking for a gasket failure.
 

Jmunk

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If it pushed out a casting plug then I think it probable that the intake and exhaust manifolds are cracked, at the least. Most likely the heads and block suffered damage as well.

Any idea how long the water has been in the oil? I think you will find it likely will have decent oil pressure, that is until you add water to the cooling system and the crankcase fills up again.

In an afternoon you should be able to have it stripped down to a short block to inspect for cracks. Then you will have all your answers.
 

Scott Danforth

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SBC motors spit the core plugs AFTER the block cracks
 

stresspoint

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pull the drive , shove a hose up its intake hole , , run the fresh oil or go to local work shop and get a few jugs of oil from oil changes :) usably free .. cycle that through it , pull the motor and assess from there.
 

stresspoint

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pull the drive , shove a hose up its intake hole , , run the fresh oil or go to local work shop and get a few jugs of oil from oil changes :) usably free .. cycle that through it , pull the motor and assess from there.
whatever way you go motor has to come out and be dismantled or replaced , speculating is a waste of time and effort.
 
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