Bunk snapped!

[Expidia]

Yesterday, I stepped off the bow of the boat as it was 1/2 way up on the trailer and I was about to reach for the hook of the winch strap.
As I put my weight on the bunk end as I always do on the front 2 feet of the right bunk under the bow I heard it start to snap in two.

Today, as I stepped onto the frame I noticed on the inside of the buck right where it snapped looked to be what I first thought was a leach like critter. I went to brush it off with my hand and it would not budge. It was jelly like in consistancy and very hard. Not slimy, but hard jelly like.

Anyone know what this stuff is? My guess is what ever this fungus is it ate into the wood inside the bunk causing it too snap!

I don't want to knock it off yet until it can be identified. The lake I was going to go on Monday is very strict for bringing any parasites into their lake. But I don't know what this orange stuff is and if it's alive and could be harmful to the lake?

The broken end of the bunk is still attached because the bunk material is holding on.

Seems strange to break this soon, used only in fresh water and only 3 years old. It's a 2007 Shoreland'er trailer with Lunds name on it. My guess was it was a defect in the wood before I noticed that orange fungus looking stuff.

So now that I have to replace it what is the best material to use. Pressure treated wood?
Is there a special wood for this purpose?

I'll replace both sides and recarpet with marine grade bunk material and use stainless steel staples.

Just wondering what is the best stuff to use inside of the bunk material and what is that orange stuff growing out of the side of the bunk. I hope it's not an alien from outer space

 

[Bob_VT]

Re: Bunk snapped!

Do not use PT wood. The PT wood contains copper which will react and corrode the aluminum hull.

Use good old 2x4 or 4x4 and seal it up with varnish in a few coats.

Orange stuff is fungus from wet wood that has never dried out

 

[KermieB]

Re: Bunk snapped!

Pressure treated wood is treated with acid after 2002. It will corrode a standard zinc bolt, screw or nail in less that a year. If you use treated wood, use a hot dipped galvanized fastener and you'll be just fine.

 

[Expidia]

Re: Bunk snapped!

Do not use PT wood. The PT wood contains copper which will react and corrode the aluminum hull.

Use good old 2x4 or 4x4 and seal it up with varnish in a few coats.

Orange stuff is fungus from wet wood that has never dried out

Thx Bob, but how does a trailer bunk ever dry out inside? They look dry to me after the boat sits between uses and it's inside a garage this season which might have slowed the drying process.

Do you think varnish will keep this from happening again? Would several coats of polyethylene do the same thing as varnish?

The pain of the whole thing is having to probably do the swap in the parking area down at some launch because I'll need the boat off the trailer. I don't want to have to jack it up and get under it again on my back to change the bunks not only for the fear of it slipping while I'm under there . . .
Last season when I went to add some self centering rollers to the frame I was on my back wiggling around drilling holes in the frame with this big mother portable drill and I must have pinched a nerve while I was doing the drilling cause now I have sciatica in my left leg even after 15 visits to a physical therapy and a year later I still feel a slight numbness on my left shin.

Even though I enjoy doing repairs myself and have most of the needed tools to work on my rig . . . sadly we reach a point where our bodies aren't what they used to be

 

[rentprop1]

Re: Bunk snapped!

The pain of the whole thing is having to probably do the swap in the parking area down at some launch because I'll need the boat off the trailer.

don't worry about that, I can't tell you how many times I've seen guys doing trailer repair at the ramp parking lot

 

[Yellow Yota]

Re: Bunk snapped!

So, just a thought, but has anyone thought about using Trex or a similar type product for the bunks?

 

[Expidia]

Re: Bunk snapped!

don't worry about that, I can't tell you how many times I've seen guys doing trailer repair at the ramp parking lot

I know . . . How tacky is it when you see someone in auto parts stores parking lots like Pep Boys working on their car or changing their oil?

That's what I'm going to feel like while I'm changing out the bunks at the ramp's lot

Maybe I could launch the boat in my Son's swimming pool temporarily

 

[Bob_VT]

Re: Bunk snapped!

Hey, you son has a ramp....let's stock the pool!!

You can do it at home by jacking only one side at a time.

Yes Polyurethane will also work in multiple coats...... you just need to stop the water absorption. In the past when I have done bunk work with carpet..... i folded the carpet edge to double it and used short SS screws. The SS staples you can get from Arrow state not for marine use

I would prepare the bunks (paint and carpet) and do both sides either at the ramp or one side at a time at the house.

 

[northernmerc]

Re: Bunk snapped!

One of the bunks on the trailer for our SeaRay rotted out a few years ago. The wood never gets a chance to dry out properly.

Several people are advising you against using pressure treated wood. You likely could us PT wood if you use bolts that will not react with the copper based wood treatment. A good lumber yard or hardware store can advise you on what to use.

As an option, I would look at buying western red cedar. It's not too expensive and should last a lot longer than untreated spruce, pine, or fir.

 

[Bob_VT]

Re: Bunk snapped!

One of the bunks on the trailer for our SeaRay rotted out a few years ago. The wood never gets a chance to dry out properly.

Several people are advising you against using pressure treated wood. You likely could us PT wood if you use bolts that will not react with the copper based wood treatment. A good lumber yard or hardware store can advise you on what to use.

As an option, I would look at buying western red cedar. It's not too expensive and should last a lot longer than untreated spruce, pine, or fir.

It's an aluminum boat...... new pressure treated wood (ACQ) is not advisable at all. Now if you have a few pieces of OLD PT wood that was arsenic treated you can get away with it. I worry more about the hull and rivets that might no longer have paint then I would the fasteners

It's the hull we worry about

 

[DJ]

Re: Bunk snapped!

Bob is correct. IT'S THE HULL that will react to PT wood.

Just paint or varnish the bunks as Bob advised.

If you plan and duplicate your bunks exactly, the swap will take 15 minutes-tops. That's whay they make battery powered tools.

 

[northernmerc]

Re: Bunk snapped!

I would be surprised if the preservative used in PT wood would leach out to the point where it would go through the carpet covering and affect the aluminum on the boat. Anyway, with cedar that would not be an issue.

Have you seen that lumber made out of recycled plastic? I'm not sure how strong it is, but it might be worth investigating.

 

[Titanty]

Re: Bunk snapped!

Good reads guys...

I have an 18' fiberglass bass boat and my bunks are like marshmallows.

They need replaced real bad.

Is there any ill effect using the PT on a fiberglass boat. Or should I just do the plain wood and laquor/carpet?

 

[tswiczko]

Re: Bunk snapped!

Just wondering what is the best stuff to use inside of the bunk material and what is that orange stuff growing out of the side of the bunk. I hope it's not an alien from outer space

Yeah, I'd say alien

 

[NDskier]

Re: Bunk snapped!

Plan ahead. I found staples that said for marine use but then if you read the back it says not to use in pressure treated wood. Then to find stainless steel staples for my air nailer and hand nailer was a chore. Had to have them special ordered thru a fastener store (local "hardware" stores did not carry stainless). Of course you can only get a box of 5,000 for $40+. So be ready to fork out some money. Boats gotta love them. Always a scavenger hunt.

I wanted to use bolts but settled for stainless lag screws for the convienence of having access to all my tools in my driveway as opposed to probably forgetting something or needing some other tool while at the ramp. But the ramp would have been so much easier if a place to keep a boat for a few hours. Also need cordless tools.

Just blabbing and sharing a recent experience.

 

[cedarjunki]

Re: Bunk snapped!

Anyway, with cedar that would not be an issue.
QUOTE]

just wanted to add to this.......the issue with cedar would be the strength of it compared to pine in the same dimension is much less. and cedar soaks up water like a sponge. red cedar is slighty stronger than white but not much.

also cedar is very diffucult to "seal up" because of the oils in it.

 

[Expidia]

Re: Bunk snapped!

Just an update to those responded to my issues.

Shoreland'r C/S is replacing both bunks for free (even though they don't warranty bunks). but after reading the suggestions above, when they come I'm going to pull them apart and poly the wood with a few coats to waterproof them before I re-install on trailer.

Thx

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?p=2933614#post2933614

 

[tboltmike]

Re: Bunk snapped!

There are articles on soaking the wood in antifreeze mixed with boric acid. It is suppose to penetrate well and kill fungus. It is suppose to dry and the wood can be coated with epoxy. I haven't tried it yet.
Mike

 

[JimS123]

Re: Bunk snapped!

It's an aluminum boat...... new pressure treated wood (ACQ) is not advisable at all. Now if you have a few pieces of OLD PT wood that was arsenic treated you can get away with it. I worry more about the hull and rivets that might no longer have paint then I would the fasteners

It's the hull we worry about

I have a 2005 Load Rite trailer. The bunks sure look like PT to me. I'm sure that LR didn't know who would buy their trailer or what they would put on it, but in my case I put a new aluminum boat on top. I don't dispute the claims about corrosion, but what's up with this? Is LR stoopid or what?

 

[ingalp01]

Re: Bunk snapped!

I would use the synthetic "wood" that they are building new decks out of... It's a composite vinyl that would never rot, wouldn't accelerate corrosion and wouldn't be that expensive since you are just replacing the bunks. You can cut it, staple to it and treat it just like wood.

When my bunks need replacing, that's the way I am going...

Just my .02 worth...