Bunk Bolts

Boilers2000

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Jun 15, 2018
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252
I have a 92 single axel eagle trailer. Anyone have any idea what size bolts hold the bunk to the frame? What type of bolt, galvanized for Stainless?

TIA
 
Last edited:

Bondo

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Apr 17, 2002
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70,958
Ayuh,.... I'm guessin' 3/8",..... if not, 1/2",....

Galvanized is usual, ssteel is rare,....
 

Drcoffee

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Aug 26, 2021
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220
Hot dipped galvanized bolts, washers and nuts. IIRC 7/16” bolts. Remove one and take it to the store
 

dingbat

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Nov 20, 2001
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What type of bolt, galvanized for Stainless?
Depends on your bunk material.

If the bunks are pressure treated, they recommend hot-dipped galvanized or stainless steel fasteners.

Hot-dipped must meet American (ASTM) A153 Class D standards and stainless steel should be grade 304 or 316
 

reelfishin

Captain
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Mar 19, 2007
Messages
3,047
IT totally depends on the trailer and manufacturer. Most lighter trailers have 3/8" bolts, most I've seen aren't even galvanized these days. I've got two Load Rite trailers here that use all 3/8" x 4" plain steel bolts to hold the cross members and bunks in place. Most galvanized bolts are soft, and SS is expensive which are likely the two main reasons.
You can use Galvanized bolts if you have a light boat, but if your dealing with a heavier glass boat, your better off with something more substantial.
SS is best, but if you intend to ever get it back apart use Never Seize on the threads. SS has a nasty habit of galling and seizing.

For most of my trailers I just use grade 5 mild steel bolts, I paint the bolts before use, and again after assembly and just keep an eye on them for rust.
Most of my boats are aluminum so strength isn't a big deal.
If your bunks are made from Pressure treated wood, the right answer is SS hardware, if not the bolt must be insulated from the wood with a plastic sleeve or coating. SS is the easier solution.

I get away with plain steel hardware mostly because I launch in freshwater most of the time, and when I do launch in saltwater, i make sure to wash down the trailer well, and give it a shot of saltx to neutralize the salt.
It must work, my newest trailer is a 1984, and my oldest is a 1967, both are galvanized frames, one plated, one hot dipped, but both are rust free after all these years.
 

Drcoffee

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Aug 26, 2021
Messages
220
Go as big as you can. At least as big as the other bolts on the trailer. Its a structural detail not just there to hold the bunk in place. And nyloc nuts help keep the bolts tight. I used standard hot dipped galv nuts to tighten down the bunk and then double nutted each with a nyloc nut. Once the wood rots, there is enough free play to cut the old bolts off with bolt cutters If they are rusted in place, years from now.
 

jlh3rd

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 10, 2017
Messages
560
I just re-carpeted all the bunks on my trailer and replaced the ones that were damaged. The trailer is a Karavan, that came with the 2007 Lowe , 24' pontoon boat I have.
The bunks are 2x6x8'..pressure treated, and they used galvanized, 1/2 lag bolts. I had to shorten the new bolts a little to make sure they didn't stick up through the carpet......
 
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