Broken Spark plug

Lou C

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Also it's not a bad idea to remove them once a season, just to make sure they WILL come out, also you can catch other problems like water in a cyl from leaky exhaust.
 

Bondo

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Thanks Lou. I did not know about these, they state they are nickel plated, so makes sense on the corrosion front. I did a quick check and could not find them for the 5.7 but will keep looking (as well as for my 5.0).
Ayuh,..... The plugs noted by AD, are alloy bodies, not plated,....
 

cyclops222

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How does water get to angled hot sparkplugs ? 70 years of cars & boat engines. Never saw a rusty one in my engines.
 

alldodge

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How does water get to angled hot sparkplugs ? 70 years of cars & boat engines. Never saw a rusty one in my engines.
Boats , water , moisture , humidity and boats don't get run for a long time, so plenty time to build rust
 

Berkley1

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Springboarding off Lou’s recommendation about cleaning > for the threaded bolt holes use a thread chaser, not a tap. Here is a video describing the difference and the why link. Chase ALL the bolt holes, including the exhaust and intake manifold ones on the head. And do not forget to do the non-removed head intake bolt holes, although I am with Lou on pulling that other head and taking both in for a look over.

And like tapping, when using thread chasers, back off occasionally and use a lube. This is covered in the video as well. And thoroughly flush and blow out the bolt holes when done. Brake Clean and compressed air does the trick (wear safety glasses) and if no compressed air while the Brake Clean will evaporate get a couple of those cans of compressed gas used to clean keyboards and dust off things to get out any remaining debris. Having a proper and clean threads if key to a proper assembly and cannot be overstressed.

And do not forget to clean off the bolts themselves again with a thread chaser / wire brush. Better yet get yourself a “kit” of new bolts and gaskets for the Manifold / Risers. And then take two of the old riser bolts and cut off the hex heads to create a couple of studs to assist in assembling the exhaust manifold. They will hold the gasket while you position the manifold onto these studs and make it a whole lot easier. See post #18 of this link for some more info on this.

Other prep work is to fully understand the methods and torquing requirements for reassembly. One aspect is the low torque values for the manifold, risers and even the initial torquing of the head bolts. It’s like 20ftlb and using a 150ftlb torque wrench is not recommended. I try to target one where the final applied torque is in the 50% - 75% range of the wrench being used.

And speaking of torque, the cylinder head bolts are degreed to their final setting. That means they are (after an initial torque setting) turned so many degrees vs. a final torque value. From an engineering perspective it’s a more precise method of creating the proper clamping force. So you will need a degree wheel, like this one link. Also here is an older post on all of this, link.

Finally do your research on proper cylinder head gasket. Others will be able to provide the proper advice on a ‘marine’ head gasket, as I not gone down this path yet.
Thanks for the link for the degree wheel ordered one for assembly
 

Berkley1

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How does water get to angled hot sparkplugs ? 70 years of cars & boat engines. Never saw a rusty one in my engines.
Had a cracked exhaust manifold it just happen to run down on to the spark plug had to be leaking before I bought the boat
 

Berkley1

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All good suggestions, to which I'll add keep your parts organized when you dis-assemble, and clean, clean, clean. Take pix of things that believe it or not are not 2nd nature once they have been apart for a while.
When re-installing the head, clean out the cyl head bolts in the block and make sure that the head bolts will thread all the way in before installing the head.
When I did mine, (overheat damage, blown head gaskets) the cleaning took the most time, cleaning the block deck and all the cyl bolt holes. I also replaced all the head bolts, because the originals were rusted (raw water cooling) and might not have given accurate torque when re-installing. Time spent in this step is very important, done right you will get many more years of use from the engine.
If this engine has a lot of hours on it, it might be a good idea to pull both heads and have the shop check them out, that can give your engine a new lease on life.
Much good advice the head came of no problem the broken plug was removed and getting ready to reassemble have cleaned everything new bolts fingers crossed everything go back easy peasy I do have to deal with a disturbed distributer meaning must go to TDC any ideas on how to turn the engine without removing the raw water pump? and the engine almost looked new inside very fortunate
 

Berkley1

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I have never really had trouble with the plugs seizing but I use AC Delco marine plugs which do not corrode, which I have seen with NGK and Champion, so if you can use the AC plugs, do so.
Also if you have any raw water leaks anywhere, fix them promptly!
I'm in a salt water region and the boat has been moored in salt water for about 20 seasons, so you REALLY have to stay on top of corrosion issues.
I did get new AC plugs no more NGK for me.
 

Berkley1

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I have never really had trouble with the plugs seizing but I use AC Delco marine plugs which do not corrode, which I have seen with NGK and Champion, so if you can use the AC plugs, do so.
Also if you have any raw water leaks anywhere, fix them promptly!
I'm in a salt water region and the boat has been moored in salt water for about 20 seasons, so you REALLY have to stay on top of corrosion issues.
Question what would be the recommended interval for changing plugs?
 

Lou C

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Well, marine plugs don't really wear out, you don't put enough hrs on the engine to do that, but I would say removing them and checking for water in a cyl each season (at the end of the season) makes sense and can prevent winding up with a seized engine come spring.
Also if you fog your cyls with a carbed engine for winterizing, you can keep an old set of plugs for that, and after spring start up and burning off fogging oil, put in a clean set of plugs for the season. Removing them annually will result in a lower probability of a seized plug.
 

Lou C

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How does water get to angled hot sparkplugs ? 70 years of cars & boat engines. Never saw a rusty one in my engines.
a leak from the cover winds up running down on the valve cover and finds its way to the cyl head
a leak from any cooling hose that runs near spark plugs
 

Berkley1

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Well, marine plugs don't really wear out, you don't put enough hrs on the engine to do that, but I would say removing them and checking for water in a cyl each season (at the end of the season) makes sense and can prevent winding up with a seized engine come spring.
Also if you fog your cyls with a carbed engine for winterizing, you can keep an old set of plugs for that, and after spring start up and burning off fogging oil, put in a clean set of plugs for the season. Removing them annually will result in a lower probability of a seized plug.
Thanks for the advice will probably pull plugs at least once a year to clean and inspect.
 
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