Bravo drive shifting delay issues advice needed

[mr300z87]

Re: Bravo drive shifting delay issues advice needed

Good news I was able to return the B1 to the seller. Now to figure out what to do with my B2. All my research leads me to the same info stated by fun times in post 19. Has anyone done a clutch upgrade on an older Bravo drive. Doesn't look too difficult but if not done right it could be bad.

Found a 79 boat with a 5.7L, 2000 Bravo 1 and trailer in the local boat shopper asking price less than a reman drive. I cold part it out and break even.

My transom assembly has provisions for drive oil monitor, will any year drive fit?

Thanks again for all who replied.

 

[mr300z87]

Re: Bravo drive shifting delay issues advice needed

So as boating season her in NJ approaches I am again turning my attentions for my delayed shifting issue I have with my Bravo 2 drive. Unfortunantly a new or rebuilt drive is out of my budget right now but I have found a new old stock clutch assembly (NLA) part # 52-807375A 3 for sale a very reasonable price however the clutch called for in my unit also NLA is 52-807375A 1 can anyone tell me if this will work or am I bound for a total upgrade or a rebuild. I consider myself a fair Mechanic and have already purchased a used inch pound torque gauge to do the rolling bearing. I just don't want to totally destroy my drive by using an incompatible part. Thank in advance for any input.

Mike

 

[Fun Times]

Re: Bravo drive shifting delay issues advice needed

but I have found a new old stock clutch assembly (NLA) part # 52-807375A 3 for sale a very reasonable price however the clutch called for in my unit also NLA is 52-807375A 1 can anyone tell me if this will work with drive serial number 0C505291?

Sorry Mike, but the 52-807375A 3 is only used/found in the Blackhawk drives. I would not attempt it.

In my research for you i found this, Mercruiser Quicksilver Clutch Cone Assy 52 12719A5 52 807375A1 NOS in Box | eBay

In this below link, you will notice the 3 oil grooves while the link above has 6 oil grooves,
MerCruiser clutch and Cam Kit 807375A1 MerCruiser bravo clutch and Cam Kit 807375A1 [MerCruiser bravo clutch and Cam Kit 807375A1 old design] - $299.95 : Ship Wreck Salvage, Used and New Freshwater Boat Parts

Here the reason for the goove difference, http://www.boatfix.com/merc/bullet/91/91_26.PDF. Notice that part number 52-12719A5 is in the ebay link with 6 grooves.

52-807375A 1 CLUTCH AND CAM KIT SN# 0K090999 & Below.
52-807375A 2 CLUTCH ASSEMBLY is for SN# 0K091000 and above and diesel drives as well.

1997 1/2 Shift Changes for Bravo One / Two / Three and BlackHawk,
http://www.boatfix.com/merc/Bullet/97/97_18.pdf

Having a hard time believing this answer though without some other changes being involved,
http://www.justanswer.com/boat/707pw-brand-new-mercury-black-hawk-cone-clutch-xxxxx.html

Hopefully Mr.Gadgets on OSO will chime in, he knows the insides of the bravos very well and knows what works and what don't, Good luck.

 

[mr300z87]

Re: Bravo drive shifting delay issues advice needed

Thanks again for the info I was afraid that was going to be the answer and it was too good to be true. I am going to read through the info you posted. I am very intrigued by these bravo drives and will eventually get it right. Thankfully the drive still functions and I will be nice to it and keep the oil clean until I can afford a replacement or a rebuild. Will also check my post at oso.

Mike

 

[mr300z87]

Re: Bravo drive shifting delay issues advice needed

So its been a year, last season I was able to cobble together a good functioning Bravo one dating around 2000. The boat performed great with the B1 drive and do not think I will be ever installing the B2 again.

However I am working on a SeaRay 250 DA Sundancer re-power (see thread in signature) and was thinking the B2 might just work out good on her if I could get in to work properly. The SeaRay was originally equipped with a B1 drive and a 7.4L the drive is original to the boat, has about 800 hours on it, is BADLY corroded and seem to have a bad bearing in the prop shaft. Since the drive in NG anyway I decided to dis-assemble it as a learning curve to possible repair the B2. So far the Upper half has been pretty simple to take apart and re-assemble. This leads me to a couple of questions.

If I take the drive shaft out of the upper B2 and do not take it apart, do I just check the rolling torque of it before putting it back together?

I also read somewhere that if I take the clutch assembly apart I could scuff the clutch surfaces of the gears, has any done that?

Lastly a while ago I spoke to a Merc Tech at a boat show and I mentioned this to him, Is comment was I need to check the alignment on the gears + over - could this be part of the issue?

As always any advise is greatly appreciated.

Have a great weekend Boating season is almost here