Bravo 3 X upper gear timing marks missing

Derek0064

Recruit
Joined
Apr 8, 2022
Messages
2
Good morning I have a B3X I have just pulled apart for clutch replacement. Model 544600TZ
Serial no 2A0719091. I am using service manual #28 which shows the match marking when reassembling the top gear set. My problem is my gear set does not have any marking (yes nil trust me I have looked) It also does not have the shim stamping numbers on the case either ? this was not an issue I just measured them with a micrometer but bearings were mint condition anyway. So the manual is specific as to the +/- timing or marking position during assembly - not helpful if you don't have them marked on your gear set ? Does any one know if this is no longer done? I assume they are for balance, if so the gears individually are symmetrical in design so I would imagine the "balance" would be for the two gears as a set. If this assumption is correct then I would have 2 options - either set them as a pair or at 90 degrees to each other. I do have access to balancing equipment so I can statically balance them if it really is this important. Can anyone shed any light that may be able to assist other then what's already in the manual.
 

achris

More fish than mountain goat
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May 19, 2004
Messages
27,468
@Fun Times (one for you?)

The marks are for pattern matching. Same reason you put cam followers back on the same lobes they came off.

Chris......
 

Fun Times

Moderator
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May 16, 2009
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Being your drive is pretty new as in year model, Service manual number 28 should be considered to old and I also believe manual number 39 is a bit old too as I believe there’s a whole newer version number or possibly an updated version of 39 that’s going to cover your drive model. As it’s been awhile now, I don’t really recall any specifics but recall they made a change in gear timing or marks, etc. of doing away with them I believe it to be.
Using your drive serial number, you’ll want to call a Mercruiser dealer part’s department and inquire about the latest manual part number to see about obtaining one for following along with the proper reassembly would be my best advice at this moment.
 

Fun Times

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^ Just an update to my personal thoughts yesterday regarding the changes as I talked to an old friend this morning that just recently retired as a Merc dealer owner/Master Tech.., He mentioned that the marks should still be there, just they are much, much harder to see as they are smaller and the shimmering process is a bit different and requires different tools to make things right which is the reason the numbers on the front casing aren’t there now.

Unfortunately he couldn’t recall the newer service manual number to help with the new process and when I search the serial number 2A0719091 in parts it suggests supplement manual #28 and there are 2 different part numbers so making it hard to say which one might work… I’d either call a dealer or reach out to Mercruiser customer service and see what they come up with if no one else chimes in here… Or maybe post this question on Off Shore Only stern drive forum as there are still a few current techs that post there every once in awhile.

Please keep this topic updated as you go and good luck.
 

Derek0064

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Apr 8, 2022
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Firstly, thanks to the guys who posted threads much appreciated. For Fun Times the manual 39 has no additional information than manual 28 procedure is the same but definitely worth a look thank you.

Ok to complete my part on this post. I have found the markings on the gears and they are as per mercruiser standard markings. They are however extremely faint and I had to use wet and dry sandpaper and a torch at a 45-degree angle to see them. Perhaps the tech who stamped them had a big weekend on the turps and was tired when mine got stamped. They are as mentioned very difficult to see.

So now I have remarked (re-stamped) them and the unit is back together as per merc requirements. I was however thinking about the “why” earlier as in why are they stamped. I made an early assumption they were balancing marks not match marks for gear mesh. My leg is a bravo diesel 3 ratio 2:00 to 1. I have not been able to find much on the internet about this so have come to the conclusion they are indeed balancing marks not gear-mesh marks. If anyone knows different from a marine tech or Merc themselves feel free to post on after this. So, my conclusion for balancing marks not mesh marks is based on my experience with industrial gearboxes not marine but for my 2 cents worth here goes.

The gear “set” I am referring to here is only top set in the upper half of the drive unit but is typical for any similar sets. Therefore (the “set” being the single input driving gear and the two mating forward and reverse gears) if these gears had a 1 to 1 ratio, then one may assume marking are for match marking and it is also good engineering practice when reassembling used gears to ensure they go back in the same position to keep consistency in wear patters etc. In the merc manual it only references the two forward and reverse gears to ensure they are aligned; it makes no mention of the input gear and “matching” this with the two forward/reverse gears. For match marking the input gear and both for/reverse gears would all need to be put back in the same position.

My leg however has 27 teeth on the single drive gear and 32 teeth for both forward/reverse gears, Simple math ratio’s shows this can not be broken down further 27/32 therefore one revolution of the input gear would turn the two mating gears only .843 of a revolution. This means that it would take 27 revolutions of the input gears before the teeth would come back around into the same mesh as the start point. So, no I don’t believe the -/+ markings are for a “gear mesh” it just doesn’t add up.

Now for balancing which is what I believe they are for. I have made this conclusion on the following. The “top box “gear set would spin in my case with the 27/32 ratio at 84% of the maximum engine speed. Mine is a Diesel and WOT can do 4300rpm. Bear in mind guys with petrol engines can run significantly faster that that. These legs fit all sorts of applications and merc has to do it’s best to ensure its legs are suitable across a wide range of applications. So, the single drive gear is mated into two cup and cone bearings and is well supported for any out of balance, the gear is symmetrical in design so let’s say well balanced by design. The two forward and reverse gears are not as well supported within their bearing assemblies but let’s say fit for purpose. The gears themselves are symmetrical and would be well balanced in design except for the thread that has been machined onto it for the bronze bush to be installed for the shift lever to actuate it. The bronze bush itself is also symmetrical except for the thread. All threads have a start and finish point therefore depending on this point the weight would differ in its centrifugal balance on both the gear and the bush. Each gear has a plus or a minus symbol stamped onto it, some also with a “H”’, mine is next to the plus symbol. I would reasonably assume that once the bronze bush has been installed onto the gear the unit would be put onto a balancing machine and the heavy and light sides stamped with a -/+ symbol for assembly. Now the Merc manual makes it very clear you must pair a plus with a minus either matched top or bottom. (Note they don’t care which) you must not pair two minus or two plus markings. These being balancing marking would ensure the unit is assembled with the “heavy” side of each gear at 180 degrees to each other. This also makes sense as to why merc don’t care whether its top or bottom it’s about having the two heavy sides opposed to each other. The manual makes note gearbox failure can result if assembled incorrectly. What Mercruiser have done is halved the centrifugal force acting of the gear set assembly by installing the heavy sides of each gear opposite each other. The comment on gearbox failure would result from the additional load put across the bearing assemblies trying to retain the additional centrifugal (imbalance) force from an incorrect assembly. (Think all the weight on one side when spinning)

OK so if that doesn’t make sense above think about this. If both heavy gears are incorrectly set together when they are spinning, they will exert twice the centrifugal force as being opposed to each other. Whilst this balance may seem small you need to multiply it by – (let’s say one of the powerful petrol speed boat engines) multiply it by up to 6000 times. Therefore, imagine the gears trying to throw themselves out of the gearbox due to the combined or “double” unbalance” six thousand times minute. This will exert more load across all the drive components and will lead to premature failure of the unit.

As mentioned at the start of this text. These are my assumptions only and how have come up with my conclusions. Happy for anyone to add more particularly if they have additional vendor specific information which seems to be hard to find on the net.
 

Grub54891

Admiral
Joined
Jun 17, 2012
Messages
6,078
Neve heard of balancing gear-sets. Yes by design they are very close. As stated earlier, it’s for wear patterns. Mis-match a wear pattern and it could fail.
An example is when I took off the chain on my old wheeler, upon installing I could not get the tension right, either to loose after moving, or to tight after moving. The sprockets were wore to a particular slightly oblong pattern. New sprockets cured it. If I would have marked the sprocket and chain positions it would have been fine. Don’t over think it.
 
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