Bravo 3 turns hard starboard underway

[DouglasW]

I originally said that when not turning, there is low pressure applied to both sides of the piston in the ram. That is not exactly true. When the wheel is not turned, the valve on the ram cuts off the flow of fluid so that there is no pressure to the ram however, it also cuts off the return path so that the fluid in the ram is trapped inside, That is what locks the piston in place until it bleeds off hours later.

 

[Tunabass]

Sea trial today and although it did still go to starboard it did seem to move slower than I remembered. The alignment marks are still not vertical so perhaps that is the reason it still moves but seems to move slower. I’ll adjust tomorrow and try it again when the weather cooperates

 

[DouglasW]

I suggest you use service manual 28 instead of an earlier one to avoid confusion. Manual 28 only describes the later model unit that you have. The balancing adjustment that has been referenced in this thread only applies to the early version, which you do not have. There is no adjustment on the later version.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...vD7lSLsMB1M_N0

Also, I don't think the position of the flats on the rod are that important. Mine are nowhere near vertical and I have no steering issues.

 

[alldodge]

The balancing adjustment that has been referenced in this thread only applies to the early version, which you do not have. There is no adjustment on the later version.

You might want to have a look at the manual you posted. Then go to page 6A-11 where it shows the flats being straight up, then continue reading until reaching page 6A-14 and note the last sentence in paragraph 11

I previous posted pic came from the Merc install manual, which I thing the images are better then all that reading

 

[DouglasW]

You might want to have a look at the manual you posted. Then go to page 6A-11 where it shows the flats being straight up, then continue reading until reaching page 6A-14 and note the last sentence in paragraph 11

I previous posted pic came from the Merc install manual, which I thing the images are better then all that reading

I have seen that section before. When I was replacing the steering cable, I noticed that the flats were almost horizontal, so I made them vertical as suggested in the manual. There was no change in the steering. The cable did not help with the low speed wander that is typical with these boats. I was unaware of that at the time and replaced the cable for nothing. I am simply saying that I do not think it has any effect because the valve rod has grooves cut all the way around.

 

[alldodge]

I have seen that section before. When I was replacing the steering cable, I noticed that the flats were almost horizontal, so I made them vertical as suggested in the manual. There was no change in the steering. The cable did not help with the low speed wander that is typical with these boats. I was unaware of that at the time and replaced the cable for nothing. I am simply saying that I do not think it has any effect because the valve rod has grooves cut all the way around.

Opinions are all good and welcomed, this is how we all help one another sort things out

 

[Tunabass]

My goal tomorrow is to try to make the marks vertical and run in the hose and see if I can manually move the outdrive. If it still moves then I believe it has to be a ram issue. I’ll post an update as soon as possible.

 

[alldodge]

Thought you were going to sea trial it first?

 

[DouglasW]

As I posted in the other forum, I think you should first disconnect the steering at the clevis pin so that rules out any possible effect the hydraulic steering may contribute. That should only take a few minutes.

 

[Tunabass]

I did sea trial it and posted the results near the end of page 3. I want to try to get the marks vertical now as that should be pretty easy to do to.

Douglas not sure what other forum your referring to about disconnecting at the clevis. I did not see that post I don’t think. Forgive me I’m trying to do this all from my phone

 

[DouglasW]

https://www.thehulltruth.com/showpos...6&postcount=41


In your other topic, on THT, you stated that you have "hydraulic steering". But do you mean that you have hydraulic cables? Or were you referring to the power steering system? If you have a standard wire steering cable, you would not need to do the disconnection test I mentioned above.

 

[Tunabass]

I have a cable that connects to the hydraulic ram.

 

[alldodge]

Have not yet tried to move my drive while the motor is running, but its been sitting for a few days on the lift, and I can not move the drive in either direction at all. That said I didn't put my back in it either

The reason I asked about the sea trial was because of your last sentence in the post, thinking of another ride

I’ll adjust tomorrow and try it again when the weather cooperates

 

[DouglasW]

I have a cable that connects to the hydraulic ram.

OK, so NO hydraulic steering cables. You don't need to do the test I suggested.

 

[Tunabass]

Well I was able to adjust the alignment marks so they now are vertical. Now I can not manuall move the drive while running to starboard but I can move it to port. Something seems to change every time I make a small adjustment to the ram. I’ll find out this weekend if it did anything and report back

 

[DouglasW]

I think I can get my hands on a well used and probably defective 2nd version ram/valve assembly for free. Will take it apart so we can see exactly what it looks like inside.

 

[DouglasW]

I received the old power steering unit yesterday and proceeded to do the disassembly which was very easy. There is no adjustment possible by turning at the flat areas on the rod. It does not change longitudinal position when rotated. The only adjustment I saw was by using shims. There were three conical disc shims around the rod inside. I suspect those are chosen to adjust the center position when necessary at the factory. The shims are conical and can be slightly compressed, so a very small amount of adjustment can be made by turning the collar at the right end of the cylinder. The collar is locked in position with a set screw. That collar with holes around it is what holds the rod in place. The holes are used to turn the collar. So, the conical shims might allow a slight adjustment because of their ability to be compressed.
There is a heavy spring just inside the valve cylinder that allows the 1/4" travel to right or left.

I believe it is important to have the flats of the rod near vertical because that places the two cut out areas in the rod channels in positions to avoid the small holes that go to the ram cylinder. But I am not sure of that or of any effect that would create if the cutouts were in line with the ram ports.

 

[Tunabass]

Wow. Great break down. What was the problem with this one? Still have been too busy to test out my last adjustment but maybe this weekend.

 

[DouglasW]

I have no idea if there was even a problem at all. It was found in a storage area with no known history. It does look used but was cleaned extensively.

 

[Tunabass]

Another sea trial today and the results have not changed. It still pulls to the right with the alignment marks dead vertical. I guess it’ll be a new ram for me eventually