Bravo 3 leaking water into bilge

[Tunabass]

I did not remove the manifold gasket or even disturb the current manifold gasket after I removed the nuts that hold it on. I simply put the nuts back on then added the gasket and zinc as a band aid to get me to September then replace the merthacode system. I’m in the military and transferingbthis year so my boating time is very limited this summer.

 

[Tunabass]

Removed the zinc and gasket again today. Cleaned it all up and reinstalled. Same leak. Just bought new manifold and gaskets. When I take the zinc off water always comes out of the port bolt hole. Gotta be the manifold or gasket right?

 

[alldodge]

Doesn't have to be, but most probable with the information we know. The manifold and mercathode looked bad, so this is the reason were going this direction. Putting water in a hull while heavy on the trailer does supply the same amount of pressure that is exerted from the outside sitting in the water.

It could still be the Y pipe (hole, crack or gasket), bolts loose or broken on the transom. The key which lead us down the current rabbit hole is the statement, that once the mercathode was removed water cam streaming in

 

[Tunabass]

I lowered the mainifold and water came out. I’m sure that is not suppose to be the case. Right now I’m struggling to get the two hydraulic lines off the manifold. I can’t get hardly any slack to lower it much further than a few inches despite having plenty of slack inside the boat

 

[scoflaw]

If it was the Y pipe it would leak when running on the flusher. You tube vid on post 14 shows the leak above the manifold area

 

[Tunabass]

[No message]

 

[Tunabass]

Can I put heat tobthose nuts. They will not budge and I don’t want to round them over

 

[scoflaw]

I would, the fluid is flammable but shouldn't be that big a deal. Use a good line wrench

 

[alldodge]

Agree, you can put some heat on it, not a lot, but DO get a line wrench

 

[Tunabass]

I’m currently looking for a line wrench. Harbor freight had no idea what I was talking about.

 

[scoflaw]

GOOD line wrenches are not sold at Harbor Freight.

 

[alldodge]

Not much of a HF tool guy, mainly in the small wrench area like these. That said they are also called flare nut wrench

https://www.harborfreight.com/5-pc-metric-double-end-flare-nut-wrench-set-68866.html

 

[Tunabass]

Replaced the manifold and all gaskets. Still leaks. Guess I’ll wait a month for someone to pull the engine. Thanks for all your help though guys

 

[scoflaw]

Thought it didn't leak when you filled the bilge

 

[Tunabass]

It didn’t but maybe the water didn’t get to the height of the leak. I have no idea and I’m beyond frustrated and pissed as I’ll only be able to fish for about two weeks this year with us selling our house, buying a new one and moving to a new state with a new job. This transfer season really but me in the ass

 

[alldodge]

When checking for a leak is the very top of the transom assembly under water?

 

[Tunabass]

Ok some updates. there is definetly a leak from the upper steering arm “pocket”. I assume the engine still needs to come out to repair this yes? I stuffed some paper towels in there and then viewed the bilge again to see if my leak temporarily stopped. It did not appear to so maybe there is yet still another leak. But back to my original question, does the engine have to come out for the upper steering arm leak fix?

edit:
we backed the boat in the water incrementaly niting when the leak started and it didn’t start until the top of the outdrive housing was about 3 inches above the water

 

[scoflaw]

Check out JR Marine video on this repair without pulling the engine. Done this a couple of times. Time consuming but all straight forward wrenching

 

[alldodge]

we backed the boat in the water incrementally noting when the leak started and it didn’t start until the top of the outdrive housing was about 3 inches above the water

Agree, then its the upper pin. You can use the JR marine repair or the Merc. many like the JR marine because its easier. In any case the motor does not need to be pulled to do this repair

http://www.jrmarine.com/instructions.htm

 

[scoflaw]

I used a non ferrous bit on a die grinder to open up the hole, so there was no need to rent his special tools. It made short work of it as well. There are also better prices out there for the SS pin.