Bravo 3 Engine Alignment

[homelite]

I have a question for those that do this all the time. I pulled my outdrive on a boat I just purchased. I ran it a few times with no worry or concern, but since it's winter, I want to go through everything. Anyhow, the gimble was just a little rough, so I replaced it. Prior to replacing it, I slid my alignment tool into the hole. I could get it into the coupler, but not all the way. It was tough to get in and out. Upon installing the new bearing. I have to pound it in and it is very hard to get out. I jerked and tapped the gimble but still can't get it smooth. So, for those of you that do this all day long, should I align the engine? The boat is a very nice 2007 Sea Ray Sunc=deck 240 with 400 hours. This will not be easy to do with the Starboard engine mount being nearly impossible to get to with the fuel cell there. I want to do it right though so I am asking. I saw a few videos online that indicate the tool should go in and out very easily and you should be able to rotate it with 2 fingers when all the way in.... Thanks.

 

[Scott06]

I have a question for those that do this all the time. I pulled my outdrive on a boat I just purchased. I ran it a few times with no worry or concern, but since it's winter, I want to go through everything. Anyhow, the gimble was just a little rough, so I replaced it. Prior to replacing it, I slid my alignment tool into the hole. I could get it into the coupler, but not all the way. It was tough to get in and out. Upon installing the new bearing. I have to pound it in and it is very hard to get out. I jerked and tapped the gimble but still can't get it smooth. So, for those of you that do this all day long, should I align the engine? The boat is a very nice 2007 Sea Ray Sunc=deck 240 with 400 hours. This will not be easy to do with the Starboard engine mount being nearly impossible to get to with the fuel cell there. I want to do it right though so I am asking. I saw a few videos online that indicate the tool should go in and out very easily and you should be able to rotate it with 2 fingers when all the way in.... Thanks.

Yes work on the alignment -you should never have to pound the alignment bar in. What do the witness marks of grease look like? that is key to know if you need to move the front of engine up or down.

I would look through the gimbal into the coupler as you may have damaged it pounding the bar in... while this is not rocket surgery a hammer is only used to seat the new gimbal bearing in place.

 

[alldodge]

^^^Agree never pound, bar should slide in fully with 2 fingers

Must figure a may to get at the mounts

 

[homelite]

Yes work on the alignment -you should never have to pound the alignment bar in. What do the witness marks of grease look like? that is key to know if you need to move the front of engine up or down.

I would look through the gimbal into the coupler as you may have damaged it pounding the bar in... while this is not rocket surgery a hammer is only used to seat the new gimbal bearing in place.

Thank you and no...I didn't hit it that hard!

 

[harringtondav]

The gimbal bearing is self aligning in its aluminum housing. The outside edge of the bearing is radiused so it can oscillate. Often it moves when the assembly is driven in. I used a digital caliper's depth gage to measure the distance from the rear face of the inner race to the housing in four locations to get an Idea of the misalignment and used a 1" pipe to adjust it by forcing the bearing in its housing.
To check engine alignment I inserted the bar into the coupler splines until the bearing pilot touched the inner race. The bar can move up and down a little. I'd push it down, note the clearance to the bearing ID, then push it up and note the same distance, and adjust the front mounts until the clearance was the same. Lower the mounts to close the gap on top, raise them to increase it.

 

[rolmops]

The gimbal bearing is supposed to turn up, down and sideways. Often they seem to be stuck in one position which may not be the right angle. When you put the alignment bar in you should jiggle it around to make sure the gimbal is loose enough to make those movements before you try to shove it all the way home

 

[vroom ZOOM]

I have a question for those that do this all the time. I pulled my outdrive on a boat I just purchased. I ran it a few times with no worry or concern, but since it's winter, I want to go through everything. Anyhow, the gimble was just a little rough, so I replaced it. Prior to replacing it, I slid my alignment tool into the hole. I could get it into the coupler, but not all the way. It was tough to get in and out. Upon installing the new bearing. I have to pound it in and it is very hard to get out. I jerked and tapped the gimble but still can't get it smooth. So, for those of you that do this all day long, should I align the engine? The boat is a very nice 2007 Sea Ray Sunc=deck 240 with 400 hours. This will not be easy to do with the Starboard engine mount being nearly impossible to get to with the fuel cell there. I want to do it right though so I am asking. I saw a few videos online that indicate the tool should go in and out very easily and you should be able to rotate it with 2 fingers when all the way in.... Thanks.

Probably some engine mounts sagging with age. Check the front and rear mounts, and if they check out, i'd go up a little on the front.