Boyesen Reeds??

sutor623

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Just wondering you guys opinion on Boyesen reeds on a v4 looper. After putting in this fresh powerhead, its got me a little paranoid about the motor eating a reed. Although, the reeds, blocks, and stops look beautiful. Is this a valid concern, or do these reeds only chip/break if they have been tampered with, or a foreign object makes its way into the intake manifold?
 

flyingscott

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Yes I have used them I like them. I currently run them in my 1987 mercury 25 hp and plan on putting them in my 1986 70 hp evinrude. Reed valves are like any other metal that moves back and forth it will fatigue over time. I like them for piece of mind I have seen reed valves break not real common but common enough for me to use the boysen. One thing you need to make sure of is you will need to change the low speed orifice in the carb to make it run richer make sure the orifice is available. Boyesen can tell you how many sizes you need to change.If you have the adjustable low speed jet you are fine. Lean sneezes can destroy them. But I am sold on them think they work great and the piece of mind even if they break no damage to the motor. After 5 years in my 25 hp mercury I am sold.
 
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sutor623

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Cool man, thanks for the feedback. I also wonder if anyone has had one of those screws come loose and fly through the combustion chamber. OUCH!!!
 

flyingscott

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The instructions you get are pretty detailed and they specifically tell you to use loc tite on them.
 

emdsapmgr

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I've used the Boyesen reeds on 3 of my V6 crossflows. Have had some of them installed for years and have never had any problems. When I tested them in my first engine, I felt that the engine would run about 200 rpm's higher at WOT. The advantage is mosty at idle (smoother) and midrange-better pickup.
 

flyingscott

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The lean sneeze occurs because they let more air in. That is why you have t richen them up. The ccm reeds are a little stiffer allowing you to use the stock jetting. I have seen boysens in snowmobiles that hold up great. In the installation instructions they tell you how to avoid the having the reed hold open has a lot to do with the installation
 

sutor623

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Cool thanks for all the pointers guys. Say I decide to keep the stock reeds cause they all look good, Should I back the screws out and clean em, re locktite them and install em, or just leave them be? In the service manual it just says to check for loose screws and re loctite them if they are loose. I am afraid if I mess with them I'll strip the heads because they seem pretty soft.
 

batman99

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I never tried Boyesen reeds myself. But, I did previously install / use "non-steel" Reed Leaf replacements from CCMS. Surf: http://www.chriscarsonmarine.com/reed-valves.htm Boyesen are 2 piece reed leaf design. CCMS is a single piece reed leaf design. For my previously installed CCMS reed leaf replacements, I didn't notice a performance gain or better gas mpgs. There might have great performance benefits afterwards but I don't drive my outboards in high RPMs range. I replaced my 2-stroke factory steel leafs with fibre material because if a steel leaf snaps, it has high risk of internal engine damage. If a fibre leaf snaps off, its often gets chewed up and creates no to little internal damage. To me, it was a no brainer to replace the Force factory steel leafs with something much less destructive. Simply install, use locktight glue on its little screws, new intake gaskets and its good. Very simply install - even for me. LOL! For my current 1995 Johnson 115 V4, I'll keep the factory leafs "as is" - since to don't read a lot of snapped factory steel leafs on this specific engine model.

Hope this helps.
 
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flyingscott

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If i was putting the original reeds back in I wouldn't touch the screws unless they are loose.
 

sutor623

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Batman, thanks for the reply. Yea I know that a certain era of the force motors had that issue. (I think just after Mercury bought them??)

Scott thanks again man. I'm with you I don't think I want to touch em as they have a lock washer and loctite on em from the factory.
 
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