Bow Stopp Guidance

[NissanOutboard]

Alright guys. It’s an old cox tilt trailer so I was able to get the boat of easily.

Here’s the trailer without the boat. Go ahead and make fun of me I can take it hahaha!

Please let me know what else I should fix to make it work for now.

 

[Scott Danforth]

You are missing the bunks and brackets

 

[JimS123]

I hear ya. The worlds changed a lot since you spent your $165. I’ll keep repairing and fixing the set up I have now.

Any tips to solve “the worst setup you’ve ever seen” would be appreciated. I’m here to learn.

Actually, nothing has changed. It's all the same except for the cost due to inflation. Back in my day a used boat like I had would cost about a grand. I did it for half that. New boats were in the $2000 range. Cheaper used boats boats could be had, just like today, but many were not serviceable, or the cost to make them usable exceeded the value.

Your boat is too far forward. If properly positioned the bunks could possible be OK. Since the trailer is not ideal, if you put the boat in the right place you might need to move the axle to get the proper balance. You need to make the thing right to know.

Does the boat have a bow eye? If not, it's not intended to be a trailer boat. The winch is set too high. Is that because of no bow eye and it's now set to winch it up on a cleat? (baddddd idea)

Surely, the winch post has no stop. Easy peasy and just a couplabucks. Pictures are not complete and could be deceiving. Looks like the stem is too low. No front trailer roller? If not, that's a cheap option as well.

As we all know, bow tiedowns and transom tiedowns are necessary. Not just a good idea but a legal requirement in most states. Don't put the boat on the highway until you get them.

Who is the manufacturer of the motor? Obviously repainted. Why? You need to provide a serial number and model number so we can help you get parts. Regardless, you also need to know the oil:gas mixture. Even if it runs great, parts will always be needed in the future. Before you ever run it, the water pump will absolutely need to be replaced, gear oil changed, spark plugs, etc.

Good luck. Forget about painting until you figure out what other expenses you need to make.

 

[JimS123]

Alright guys. It’s an old cox tilt trailer so I was able to get the boat of easily.

Here’s the trailer without the boat. Go ahead and make fun of me I can take it hahaha!

Please let me know what else I should fix to make it work for now.

The bow stop is missing.
The winch strap need to be replaced with a latching hook, not an S-hook.
The bow roller is missing.
The mid roller needs adjusting.
ALL the rollers may need to be replaced (can't tell from the pic)
If the tires are more than 5 years old, (check the sidewall dates), the need to be replaced if you intend to go on the highway.
Check the lights and wiring. Can't tell from the pics.
The bunks may be OK - can't tell. Check for rotten wood.
Naturally, repack the bearings, or replace them if they are rusted.

 

[NissanOutboard]

Actually, nothing has changed. It's all the same except for the cost due to inflation. Back in my day a used boat like I had would cost about a grand. I did it for half that. New boats were in the $2000 range. Cheaper used boats boats could be had, just like today, but many were not serviceable, or the cost to make them usable exceeded the value.

Your boat is too far forward. If properly positioned the bunks could possible be OK. Since the trailer is not ideal, if you put the boat in the right place you might need to move the axle to get the proper balance. You need to make the thing right to know.

Does the boat have a bow eye? If not, it's not intended to be a trailer boat. The winch is set too high. Is that because of no bow eye and it's now set to winch it up on a cleat? (baddddd idea)

Surely, the winch post has no stop. Easy peasy and just a couplabucks. Pictures are not complete and could be deceiving. Looks like the stem is too low. No front trailer roller? If not, that's a cheap option as well.

As we all know, bow tiedowns and transom tiedowns are necessary. Not just a good idea but a legal requirement in most states. Don't put the boat on the highway until you get them.

Who is the manufacturer of the motor? Obviously repainted. Why? You need to provide a serial number and model number so we can help you get parts. Regardless, you also need to know the oil:gas mixture. Even if it runs great, parts will always be needed in the future. Before you ever run it, the water pump will absolutely need to be replaced, gear oil changed, spark plugs, etc.

Good luck. Forget about painting until you figure out what other expenses you need to make.

I digress on my point about the world changing. They just don’t make em like you anymore sir.

On to the reason the thread was posted -- to get me on the water.
- Boat has a bow eye
- After doing some digging. The winch came that way from the cox factory.
- I will look into the stem and trailer roller

- As for the motor (2001 Nissan NS25C3 serial 61748), I stated it runs very well because I serviced it. That included : new fuel filter, new fuel pump, complete rebuild of the carb, lower unit oil change, full water pump rebuild, new plugs, new thermostat, new grease. I appreciate your feedback but the motor is in great shape. It was repaint to duck hunt by the previous owner.

- Paint -- I am not painting it because I think that is a cure all. I repaired the paint chipping and uneven surfaces with sanding, fairing, and patience. I threw the primer on there so it doesn't look all patchy for the time being. The boat will be painted flat OD green to duck hunt.

So let's get this thread back on track and get to building this trailer! I do appreciate your blatant honesty though sir.

 

[NissanOutboard]

The bow stop is missing.
The winch strap need to be replaced with a latching hook, not an S-hook.
The bow roller is missing.
The mid roller needs adjusting.
ALL the rollers may need to be replaced (can't tell from the pic)
If the tires are more than 5 years old, (check the sidewall dates), the need to be replaced if you intend to go on the highway.
Check the lights and wiring. Can't tell from the pics.
The bunks may be OK - can't tell. Check for rotten wood.
Naturally, repack the bearings, or replace them if they are rusted.

Thanks for the feedback.
I will look into all of that. Seems pretty simple to me. I am also going to replace the bunks, might as well while i have her off the trailer.

Lights and wiring work (wishbone 4 pin)

 

[flashback]

Ok, don't look too bad... you have several mounting points on the forward cross brace for the c channel brackets like you currently have on the back. Once they are installed you run a bunk board far enough forward to catch at least half the boat and carry the boat above the fenders a couple of inches.. If it's flat bottom the rollers are useless so don't worry about that..

 

[JimS123]

Ok, don't look too bad... you have several mounting points on the forward cross brace for the c channel brackets like you currently have on the back. Once they are installed you run a bunk board far enough forward to catch at least half the boat and carry the boat above the fenders a couple of inches.. If it's flat bottom the rollers are useless so don't worry about that..

That trailer is intended to be a combo keel roller / bunk trailer. The rollers support the keel and the bunks support the back and engine. It doesn't look like it ever had bunks any further forward.

True, if the hull is flat and there is no protruding keel, the rollers will not act to self center the boat on retrieval. But there still needs to have some support because the bunks are quite small. The front roller is missing (only the shaft left), so the metal bracket is surely going to damage the bottom of the boat. With no keel, adding side bunks will help in the loading process.

Most winch posts have the capability to adjust the winch up and down. Looks like this isn't the case. Obviously, new mounting holes will needed to be drilled. Once the boat is properly positioned on the trailer, and the winch post is adjusted to fit the boat, position the winch so that the strap is just slightly above the bow eye, and it will load very nicely. Then, drill a hole in the tongue just below the bow eye and install an eye bolt to enable a bow tie down.

 

[Grub54891]

Can't get a pic of mine right now as the trailer is at home buried in snow and the boat is at the cabin buried upside down also.
I took the bowstop, it previously had a v-hull on it. I cut off the post for the bowstop and turned it to fit the upper rubrail. Then replaced the bunks to fit hull properly. It sits nicely on there now. As I said, I cant get a pic till May after the crusted rock hard snow melts.

 

[garbageguy]

... It’s an old cox tilt trailer ...

this looks similar, not sure if its any help to you, but just in case, found it here

Cox Trailer Rebuild

My boat build has been on hold due to the crappy home made trailer the boat came on. I got to the point were I didn't want to put the boat back on the trailer until the trailer was redone. Well the original trailer was pretty much junk. It was home made and I couldn't find any replacement...

www.tinboats.net

 

[airshot]

Based on the pic you posted...if it were me...I would get an additional pair if bunk mounts so your bunks would run from the rear of the boat forward to reach the center frame member. Most bunk mounts are adjustable for height, yours will need to go high enough so the boat clears everything on the trailer by at least a couple inches. New front roller, middle is questuonable, rear appears ok. Once the boat is set on the new bunks, adjust the rollers up until they are just snug on the bottom or keel, whatever they contact. The rear of the bunks need to extend just a little rearward from the very back of your boat!! You might need to move boat back of forward on the trailer and measure the bunk lengths needed to allow enough room in the front of the trailer for the winch stand. Now the majority of the boats weight is supported by the carpet covered bunk boards. The rollers just support a small amount of weight and will help get your boat on and off your trailer. With your boat normally with gear and motor, check the tongue weight...it needs to be at least 10% of the total weight of everything in order to tow correctly !!! Moving the axle forward to lessen the weight or rearward to add weight to the tongue. This will be the easiest way to get your boat supported and in the proper position for the trailer you have. Been a boat owner for over 60 years, had more boats of different shapes and sizes than I have fingers to count them. Never a new one, always used and have had to set them all up to support the hull and have them tow correctly. There are other things that need done as well, but this will get you started..

 

[NissanOutboard]

Update:

New bunks
New bow stop
New bearings
Fixed trailer wiring

Mid roller will be here in a few days so I’ll add that.

Should be good to go

 

[04fxdwgi25]

Still needs some hull support forward of the bunks. Or much longer bunks

 

[airshot]

Or some additional keel rollers on the trailer tongue, I agree on some additional forward support. Your bunks will work if most of you boat/ motor weight is at the rear! Now...do you have the proper tongue weight?? You should have a spare tire...adding one by the bow stop will help with the tongue weight...

 

[NissanOutboard]

I will look into a spare tire and the tongue weight. I am going to have to get the boat back on the trailer which seems like a pain in the *ss.

Any suggestions on getting it back up on the trailer or am I going to need to bribe my buddies..

 

[airshot]

Might offer friends a beer or two, but there are other ways if needed. Roll boat over so it sits on its bottom. Roll trailer in front of boat and pull boat/ push trailer like it is loading up at the ramp. Tongue will need to tilt up high to get it started. Use the winch to start cranking the boat onto the trailer....if your boat is light enough to pick up the front by hand, then attach the trailer to tow vehicle to hold it in place.. Pull the boat up on the trailer as much as you can just to get it started, attach winch and finnish cranking it on. If your bunks are covered, your boat ( empty of course) is light enough to get pulled into position with the winch.

 

[NissanOutboard]

Got that sucker back on the trailer -- I can confirm I will need at least one additional keel roller on the tongue.

What is the best way to check tongue weight? My thought is step on the bathroom scale like normal then step on it while holding the tongue...

I might be way off but I am sure someone has a good idea.

 

[JimS123]

Got that sucker back on the trailer -- I can confirm I will need at least one additional keel roller on the tongue.

What is the best way to check tongue weight? My thought is step on the bathroom scale like normal then step on it while holding the tongue...

I might be way off but I am sure someone has a good idea.

Put a gallon paint can or size equivalent on the scale and then set the coupler on it. If you can merely hold it it's probably too light.

Spare tire for sure, but how old are the one on the trailer now? Obviously, cracked sidewalls need to be replaced, but if they are ST tires the service life isn't more than 5 years even if they look perfect.

 

[NissanOutboard]

Put a gallon paint can or size equivalent on the scale and then set the coupler on it. If you can merely hold it it's probably too light.

Spare tire for sure, but how old are the one on the trailer now? Obviously, cracked sidewalls need to be replaced, but if they are ST tires the service life isn't more than 5 years even if they look perfect.

thanks for the tip -- I will look into getting the tongue weight when I get the motor back on

The tires are brand new -- that's the one good thing about the setup.