Expidia
Commander
- Joined
- Aug 26, 2006
- Messages
- 2,368
Re: Both Trailer Bulbs exploded.
I swapped out the lights on my daughters canoe trailer and also her boat trailer with the LED kits from Walmart for $50 (I bought the kit and will save the new wire harness for future use) I only had to use the lights since the old wires were in good shape. I did not want issues down the road so I first slipped on a few inch piece of shrink wrap tubing and then soldered each connection. Then shrunk the the heat wrap tube with a hair dryer. Both a cheap soldering kit and a package of shrink tubes are available at a store like Harbor Freight.
Make sure you remove and shine up with a little sandpaper each ground connection from the wires to the trailer body. 90% of problems with trailer lights are usually grounding related issues in my experience.
On my 5 year old rig the rear light housings are open to the water, I unplug before launching but when I forget the bulbs have never popped so maybe they are water resistant bulbs (I've never looked).
Stiil, after seeing how bright her LEDs are I'm going to swap out mine for LED's too even though my OEM lights are fine. That extra brightness can possibly prevent someone from rear ending me taking out my outboards lower end and ruining my season while waiting for expensive replacement parts. $50 is cheap insurance!
OK thanks all. I generally drive to the lake when it's dark out so the bulbs were lit the entire trip.
I didn't plan to silicone the red faceplate that I get into to change the bulbs but rather the holes in the back where the wires enter. The faceplate seems waterproof.
As for LED, can I attach them to the current electrical system or do I have to rewire (AGAIN!)? If it's a matter of swapping out the incandescent lights, I think I can handle that.
I didn't
I swapped out the lights on my daughters canoe trailer and also her boat trailer with the LED kits from Walmart for $50 (I bought the kit and will save the new wire harness for future use) I only had to use the lights since the old wires were in good shape. I did not want issues down the road so I first slipped on a few inch piece of shrink wrap tubing and then soldered each connection. Then shrunk the the heat wrap tube with a hair dryer. Both a cheap soldering kit and a package of shrink tubes are available at a store like Harbor Freight.
Make sure you remove and shine up with a little sandpaper each ground connection from the wires to the trailer body. 90% of problems with trailer lights are usually grounding related issues in my experience.
On my 5 year old rig the rear light housings are open to the water, I unplug before launching but when I forget the bulbs have never popped so maybe they are water resistant bulbs (I've never looked).
Stiil, after seeing how bright her LEDs are I'm going to swap out mine for LED's too even though my OEM lights are fine. That extra brightness can possibly prevent someone from rear ending me taking out my outboards lower end and ruining my season while waiting for expensive replacement parts. $50 is cheap insurance!