Body repair

PT

Seaman
Joined
Apr 29, 2003
Messages
72
This should probably be in the Stupid Human section.Long story short i cut a 1/8inch by 12inch long gash(skillsaw)<dumb.. in my hull below the water line. I have been reading & i am not sure if i should use fiberglass or epoxy or both to fix this. Some advice would be appreciated. So i know what i am doing & dont cause any problems for myself when im in the water..
 

flashback

Captain
Joined
Jun 28, 2002
Messages
3,869
Re: Body repair

did you go all the way thru? if so, then I would scuff up the inside with a grinder and lay a couple of layers of cloth, then fill the cut from the outside with marine tex or a mix of epoxy and silica, sand it fair and paint it....... if you didn't go all the way thru then no need for the glass inside. good luck ............
 

imported_Paul_H

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
May 1, 2003
Messages
35
Re: Body repair

What is the hull made out of? I would presume polyester resin, and so would use polyester, epoxy and polyester aren't compatible, so use the resin the hull was made from. <br /><br />You will need to bevel down the hull from the inside with an angle grinder and abrasive disk 3" from cut on out to each side and the ends. On the outside of the hull, put down a layer of duct tape to keep the resin from dripping through. Use a respirator when grinding the glass, safety glasses, and a set of overalls, the dust is bad for the lungs, and itches like crazy if the fibers get on your skin. Dust masks are not the same as a respirator, and don't keep all the dust out of your lungs.<br /><br />Mix up the resin and catalyst thoroughly according to the instructions, work in cooler temps, and don't put in too much catalyst, or too little. Using a disposable bristle brush, put a layer of resin on the area you ground down, then a layer of matt, then more resin to saturate the mat, then another layer of mat, then more resin, and a 3rd layer of mat with more resin to saturate. <br /><br />The second and 3rd layers of matt don't need to be the full width or the repair, say 6 wide first piece, 4" wide second and 2" wide last piece. Don't forgo grinding down the hull to a bevel as glass does not go around corners, or fill slots. <br /><br />Once the resin is hardened up, then peel the duct tape, sand the outside, fill with bondo, sand again, and paint.<br /><br />Do the job right, as a failure on the repair will result in a hull breech, and no doubt at the most inoportune time as possible.
 

PT

Seaman
Joined
Apr 29, 2003
Messages
72
Re: Body repair

I got a gallon of Fiberglass resign & cloth..I already did the grinding,got half of the floor up now.& Im itching right now, i used a paper mask , think i get a mask from work because those flying fibers worry me. thxs for that info.the boat is a 19 ft bayliner, i guess its made out of fiberglass. thxs
 

PT

Seaman
Joined
Apr 29, 2003
Messages
72
Re: Body repair

One more question, when i lay the floor down how do i attach it to the stringer.when i was taken it up it looked to me that it was set in resign, no screws , just resigned together.
 

jomac

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 1, 2003
Messages
195
Re: Body repair

PT glass both sides and us some woven inside between your layers of mat _mat is for adhension and a filler - Woven is were u get your strength from use it :eek:
 
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