Boat took a hit, needs a small cosmetic repair (fiberglass and bumper)

[zul]

A big gust of wind sent the boat into a dock, hard slam.

I am looking for suggestions on what type of fiberglass to purchase?? Will I need to use mesh? The damage looks small enough where I might not have to? Perhaps some simple bondo? I've used some 2 part epoxy before but never worked with fiberglass. Any advice or link to video help appreciated.

Also, that bumper rail is beyond repair. Any suggestions on that? This super dent is about 5 feet away from the seam where the metal and rubber rail start/end or meetup together. I'm thinking that I can cut the dent out and re-mount the rail. But then, leave a 5-6 inch gap at the seam? Looking for an idea there ...

I've got little nicks and other small fiberglass repairs to make. This is a nice boat but is in real need of a wax job (or deep sanding and wax). So maybe this prompts me to get after all of it at once.

Thanks gang!!

 

[chevymaher]

That is kinda rough lookin. the bumper got to come off. You got to be able to get to the back of it. It has to be ground and tapered front and back. Re glassed. re gel coated after alot of sanding and body work basically.

 

[Woodonglass]

That's not an easy repair. Bump rail is pricey. Polyester Glass Resin and 1708 fabric will be needed to do the job right. Not sure what you mean by the 5-6" gap.

 

[Buckischloo]

As mentioned, the rail has to come off to repair. I would not cut out the dented rail leaving a gap, that will catch/tear/cut everything that comes in contact. Leaving the dented rail is better than cutting out the dent. The gap will look worse than the dent and offer no protection. File off the sharp edges left by the dock. If the rest of the boat is showroom condition, then replace the rail $$$$. Depending on the make/model, you might have an extremely remote chance of finding a junk boat with matching good rail.

 

[zul]

I found 2 different polyester products: Lamanating Resin or Finishing Resin ... which one to get?
This project is bout the size of my fist: quart or gallon?
I have not yet found the 1708 fiber tape that Woodonglass mentioned, I'll keep looking.

I have several other minor fiberglass issues. I'll get pics up soon. The idea is I'm hoping to use this same fiberglass product on all the areas, could I ever get that lucky? Would I need to buy several other types of glass to do it right?! Thanks for the input fellas!!

Other fiberglass problems / projects ::

1. I would like to remove some or all of the original boat cover 'snaps' and fill the screw holes.
2. 2 one inch holes drilled into the inside of the bow. From removing a mounted cushion.
3. 1 two inch hole where the flood lamp was removed. I wish the previous owner had left it there!

If I get after all these cosmetic problems, it looks like I'll need the full gallon. But then my boat will be all purdy again.
(after the full wax job, that is)

 

[zul]

Here's the poly resign I found:
https://www.amazon.com/TotalBoat-Po...at&qid=1564420289&s=gateway&sr=8-7&th=1&psc=1

And pics .....

 

[Woodonglass]

U S Composites . Com has all the supplies you need and lots cheaper than amazon.

 

[steve_h7]

I found 2 different polyester products: Lamanating Resin or Finishing Resin ... which one to get?
This project is bout the size of my fist: quart or gallon?
I have not yet found the 1708 fiber tape that Woodonglass mentioned, I'll keep looking.

I have several other minor fiberglass issues. I'll get pics up soon. The idea is I'm hoping to use this same fiberglass product on all the areas, could I ever get that lucky? Would I need to buy several other types of glass to do it right?! Thanks for the input fellas!!

Other fiberglass problems / projects ::

1. I would like to remove some or all of the original boat cover 'snaps' and fill the screw holes.
2. 2 one inch holes drilled into the inside of the bow. From removing a mounted cushion.
3. 1 two inch hole where the flood lamp was removed. I wish the previous owner had left it there!

If I get after all these cosmetic problems, it looks like I'll need the full gallon. But then my boat will be all purdy again.
(after the full wax job, that is)

Finishing resin has wax added and requires sanding between layups... laminating resin doesn't but does needs PVA applied or wax added on the last layer to seal from the air and allow it to fully cure. Like WOG said, US Composites has it all but is in Florida and shipping can be a killer if you live somewhere like WA (me )... so now that I'm down to near being done with glassing I've been getting mine on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0782R2QQD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077YQTXJQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078314ZN3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Just fwiw...

 

[zul]

All these resins appear clear. Is there an additive that'll attempt to match the white fiberglass? Or maybe it turns white as it dries? $45 / gallon, not bad!

There's a 300% price difference between the 'chopped strand' and 1708 product ... Is there a real big difference? Like chop strand is the 'half a$$ method'? I'll get the 1708 if needed ... ??

 

[chevymaher]

The additive is called gel coat. It is a pigment in the resin. Used as paint basically on a boat. Glass goes on clearish and you put the gel coat on the top like paint. Resin and cloth is the strength. Gel coat is just for the looks.

1708 is a cloth with csm sewn to it. It is 6X stronger than the CSM alone. Shame you aint close to me. I cut you off a big chunk of what i got left over.

 

[zul]

Ah, big light bulb on that one -- thanks chevymaher !

Can the gel coat be added later, like this winter?
Also, my boat has scratches (gel coat level scratches) on it's hull and belly. Not real bad, but worth looking after, I guess?
So, if I decide to go after those gel coat scratches, would I sand and grind, then apply gel coat, then wax?

I am also in the process of figuring out and purchasing all that sand paper to do the deep sanding ... and then wax. It seems like I can do most of the work this summer and then come back at it again in the winter with all the gel coat and finish with the wax? There is an order to these steps that I think I am still missing??

Thanks for the advise!

 

[chevymaher]

Yes you can wait to do the repair area later. Wont hurt a thing. They sell the color you need. in a thin gel coat. For this repair it is the best.

Scuff it with 600 wet sand to get it to adhere when you put it on. It will sand and buff with autobody supplies, I used a certain type it is cheaper. My results are as good as anyones who used the high dollar kits. I got all my crap at harbor freight. Meguires is good no matter where you get it.


Now on the bottom scratches. I got the gel coat repair kit. iboats store has it. It is like a toothpaste consistency. Mix it with pigment. Put it in the scratches with a bondo squeegie. Now it is level again. Sand and buff it out then wax.

I know they say wax or it wont cure. I did it just wet sand it to keep the paper from clogging. it only a tacky surface layer and it comes right off. It is fully cured a few microns down.

As for color matching it is under the boat. If it is in the ballpark you wont ever notice it. Read online mixing pigments. Practice and go. Top coat like I said just buy it the right color since it is right in your face.

To spray gel coat use a cheap harbor freight primer gun. I have to ask my brother the nameof the thinner. If you can paint it isnt no harder than car paint. I find it much more forgiving myself. More work but easier to get perfect results.