Boat Stereo Install

AJJ

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I am looking at installing a stereo in my boat. My idea is to use a 24V to 12V step down and a DPDT switch to switch the stereo from running on my 12V cranking battery and my 24V trolling motor batteries. I have attached an image to show what I would like to do. Do you electrical pros see anything wrong with this setup?
 

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KD4UPL

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I doubt the negative 12 volt output terminal of the DC to DC converter should be connected to the common ground but I don't know which converter you have. I would think the converter's positive and negative should be completely isolated from the 24v positive and negative. This will require a DPDT switch with 12v on one side, 24v on the other, and the stereo connected to the common terminal. DC to DC converters are basically switching power supplies which are known to produce radio interference. This could be a problem if you want to listen to AM or FM radio or if you have a marine VHF.
There is a device called a battery balancer, Victron makes one but I'm sure there are others. You could just permanently hook the stereo to one trolling motor battery and let the balancer move some current from one deep cycle to the other to keep them balanced even though the stereo is only drawing from one.
 

GA_Boater

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Welcome aboard.

What stereo and what is the output? Or any amps and the output?
 

AJJ

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I redid my drawing to be more detailed. I am planning on using a Victron DC-DC Isolated converter that has a remote loop to turn it on-off. I like this better than the other way I was doing it. The stereo is a Kicker KMC2 that draws a max of 10 amps. I want to use the converter to get even draw on TM batteries to extend life.

Do you guys really think the converter would cause interference with my radio? What about running the trolling motor at the same time?

Is it really not ok to connect the negative terminals from the fuse block and the 12V side of the converter to the stereo?

Is it ok to have my onboard battery charger hooked up to the TM batteries? Would this ruin the converter?
 

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KD4UPL

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I looked up the manual for the device online. You can combine the negatives. Looks like you should be good with what you've drawn.
 

AJJ

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I looked up the manual for the device online. You can combine the negatives. Looks like you should be good with what you've drawn.

Great! This is what I wanted to hear. You don't see any other possible issues with this setup? Does anyone else have a similar setup? I haven't seen anyone do this before.

I would run off the cranking battery when cruising with the stereo on and running the motor to take advantage of the alternator. When parked at a sandbar and drinking beer, I would switch over to the TM batteries and turn on the stereo so I won't have any worries of cranking the motor.
 

Jeff Fro

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Question for you: why couldn't you have a take off on just one of the trolling motor batteries? That way you wouldn't need the 24v to 12v converter and would still have 12v either way.
 

AJJ

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I would use the converter for even draw on the trolling motor batteries. I don't like the idea of running down one battery more than the other. This would extend your battery life.
 

sam am I

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Few ways to go about this, his is one, your's is another, I suggest headphones and put an end to it all!!...........BUT,

The amp's output (speakers) are isolated so as long as the input power to the amp difference is 12V it wouldn't matter where the negative is referenced as long as the positive is only 12V above that neg ref point, it's fine.

NOW, what about run time/power?

If for example he goes as his suggested route implies with say 2-12V 50 a/h batts for an example, in series and hooked to the DC-DC converter (24--->12)

Then P(in) * eff = P(out)....@ *85% eff and where P = V*I

24*50*.85 = 12*x

Solve for x

x = 85 a/h @ 12V


Doing what he has proposed allowed him to run roughly and "continuous" about an hour if his amp, on avg, uses **85 amps with no battery switch out/over before the batts are 10.5V ea. (0[zero] SOC)

HOWEVER....and still using 0(zero) SOC as the baseline for this example.

He could just hook up to each battery one at a time sorta like you suggested, he'd gain 15% more runtime from not having the loss of the DC-DC AND save $$$ not having a DC-DC BUT, not even a fraction as much as just using a simple set of headphones!!

HOWEVER, he'd, of course, have to switch over from one battery to the other once he's down to 10.5V on the first batt.

He'd then be at 100 a/h (50 ea.) with a simple batt switch over in the middle somewhere.......But switching over is a pain? Esp when there's hot girls around!!

Nah.....easy peasy,


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Of course you don't have to go down to 0 (zero) SOC in either case, that's just to get an idea of what we're dealing with here, you could switch over at 50% SOC, doesn't matter, the math would be the same wherever you chose to switch over.

A guy could also automate this switch over by using a pre-programmable low voltage cutout relay, but.......maybe some other day eh?

*https://www.victronenergy.com/upload...50-400W-EN.pdf

** 2 hrs @ 42.5 A, 4 hrs @ 21.25 A, 8 hrs @ 10.63 A, etc, etc
 
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Scott Danforth

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if you can hear the radio, your motor doesnt make enough power
 

AJJ

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So you guys are saying it's ok to run down each trolling motor battery separately?I would of thought they would like it better to be run down evenly at the same time.
 

sam am I

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If you're just using them for the amp 90% of time, why not? It would be more efficient and the batteries and amp don't care. If you're trolling 90% of the time, the TM is already wired across 24V, so moot point, it'll always dis-charge them equally.

If say you're doing/going both trolling and amp'ing 70/30 respectively, same as above, the higher % of trolling would keep them more or less balanced.

HOWEVER if it were 30/70 trolling and amp'ing, I'd lean towards the DC to DC idea as it wouldn't be best practice to be loading down (turning on the TM and trolling) a larger % of time a discharged battery in series with a full battery, no.

Nothing would blow up per-se, just not best practice.

Just depends on how you're going to primarily use them.......But why bother?, use headphones!!
 
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sam am I

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I hear tale (tail?) the hottest of the hot ALL hella-dig smart guys that respect nature and others that also value their own peace and quiet.

Plus, think of all the extra gas money you'll have saved to take them out of a nice quiet relaxing picnic, get some really good prosciutto ham, some aged cheeses with some sea salt crackers and a nice bottle of wine..DUDE!! Need I say more?
 
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AJJ

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Ok, I think you talked me out of it for now. I think I will just get a nice portable bluetooth speaker.
 

sam am I

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Sony makes some cool stuff, can pair just two in L/R stereo mode and/or wireless party chain mode for like 100 of them.

Most are waterproof and dustproof (IP67 rated), IP67 means the unit can be dropped into a body of water up to a meter deep for half an hour



https://www.sony.com/electronics/wir...akers/srs-xb32

Or you could just use headphones........
 
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