boat planing in jon boats

[Texasmark]

So, v-hull are define as the "V" at stern (looking at the rear of the transom, as in 2nd picture below) or at bow (looking at the front of the boat)?

Is "dead rise" define as in the first image below?


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[IMG2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","src":"https:\/\/cimg0.ibsrv.net\/gimg\/www.thehulltruth.com-vbulletin\/990x360\/24_degree_deadrise_angle_big_red_ugly_d514d829ffa31d8258e09a8ddd0155756bdd30ce.jpg"**[/IMG2]

No. First picture is transom angle which varies as do other boat dimensions. Your second picture is how you measure Dead Rise. If the center of your second picture were flat rather than in an arc it would be a "Pad hull". The Pad is like a water ski...small surface area, reasonable to high dead rise hull that usually accompanies a pad, gets the hull out of the way so that the spray off the pad won't contact the hull and slow you down....... normally found on bass boats that easily run 60+ MPH with 200 HP mils. For the pad to work you need to be up over 40 mph. Gotta have incoming water pressure to do the lifting of the hull and that takes MPH. The idea is to reduce the hull to water resistance by reducing the amount of hull in the water.

 

[QBhoy]

Deeper the v, the better it is in rough water. The down side can be that a deep narrow v can be a little tippy.
I have a few boats. The most noticeable example is the difference between my U.K. made deep v 19ft cuddy and my v Canadian 18ft bow rider.
the bow rider has a fairly deep v compared to others in its class and is very wide at about 8ft at the transom. She has a pad and very quick. But going head on into a short chop...she is horrible. Would literally shake and rattle you to the bone.
the lighter but deeper v U.K. fletcher is incredible in the chop. Although a foot longer and much lighter...she is not much more than 6 foot across and the deep v continues to the stern. She is noticeably less stable than the Campion and very easily unsettled should anyone move around or side on to a wave.
always a compromise.

 

[fishrdan]

When I call stores around, I ask if they have a used row boat available for sale. they didn't know what a row boat is? They reply if I meant jon boat. I had to explain I want a 14' v-hull, then they ask, would that be 60HP? Some even direct me to fiberglass bass boats, again, I am looking for aluminum.​

New, or used? You may find a good priced used aluminum boat, craigslist, offerup, etc... I see them listed all the time. If going new, you can try some of the big box stores as they have small(er) aluminum boats. Avoid BPS and Tracker, more along the lines of Cabelas, Sportsmans Warehouse, Gander Mt, etc.

FWIW, I have a 14' jon boat with a 7.5HP (de-tuned 15) OB and it rips along with 1 person 20+- mph, and it's loaded heavy. Fuel tank and 2 group 29 batteries are mounted mis-ship and balance the boat well, only OB and TM are on the stern. You DON'T want a boat like this for big water, wind and waves, though I have ventured out under ideal conditions and lived to tell the tale (also ran for cover and hunkered down for hours waiting for the wind/waves to die down...). 1' waves are not an issue, but 2'+ waves will have you running for cover. If I had to buy my 14' boat again, I would have gone with a 14' utility, V bow.

 

[QBhoy]

New, or used? You may find a good priced used aluminum boat, craigslist, offerup, etc... I see them listed all the time. If going new, you can try some of the big box stores as they have small(er) aluminum boats. Avoid BPS and Tracker, more along the lines of *******, Sportsmans Warehouse, Gander Mt, etc.

FWIW, I have a 14' jon boat with a 7.5HP (de-tuned 15) OB and it rips along with 1 person 20+- mph, and it's loaded heavy. Fuel tank and 2 group 29 batteries are mounted mis-ship and balance the boat well, only OB and TM are on the stern. You DON'T want a boat like this for big water, wind and waves, though I have ventured out under ideal conditions and lived to tell the tale (also ran for cover and hunkered down for hours waiting for the wind/waves to die down...). 1' waves are not an issue, but 2'+ waves will have you running for cover. If I had to buy my 14' boat again, I would have gone with a 14' utility, V bow.

That’s some going for a 7.5hp. You reckon someone has unrestricted it to have 15hp ?

 

[CNT]

If the center of your second picture were flat rather than in an arc it would be a "Pad hull". The Pad is like a water ski...small surface area, reasonable to high dead rise hull that usually accompanies a pad, gets the hull out of the way so that the spray off the pad won't contact the hull and slow you down....... normally found on bass boats that easily run 60+ MPH with 200 HP mils. For the pad to work you need to be up over 40 mph. Gotta have incoming water pressure to do the lifting of the hull and that takes MPH. The idea is to reduce the hull to water resistance by reducing the amount of hull in the water.

When the Bow is V'd and the stern is flat, it's called a Modified V.​

Using this image as example, would this be a "Pad Hull"?

"Pad Hull" = Mod V , correct?

 

[jbcurt00]

Using this image as example, would this be a "Pad Hull"?

"Pad Hull" = Mod V , correct?

No, speed boats utilize a 'pad'

 

[ahicks]

I could be wrong because you don't see "pad" used often to describe a hull type, but my interpretation of a "pad" hull would be one with a "pad" or flat spot located in the keel area (also known as a "runner bottom"), of a width sufficient to support the boat at speed, thus lifting the rest of the hull out of the water to reduce drag and increase speed. It's probably something you aren't going to find often in a boat like we're talking about here.

The boat in your picture, the one with rounded chine areas, is an OLD boat. The rounded section is harder to get planed out.

Second vote for hanging up on somebody that doesn't know what a row boat is. In more generic terms, you might ask about small alum. fishing boats.

 

[garbageguy]

Wow, lots here. One of our boats, on a 4 mi by 2 mi lake is 14 ft alumacraft with a 25 hp 4-stroke. Gets you where you need to be when load/conditions allow. Lets us get into shallow water (outboard tilts all the way out of water, and keep oars on board) when needed. As said, all boats are compromises - and operator awareness/experience are HUGE factors for all boating.

I think your 15hp, one person, may go into some chop, situation - puts you in a 14 ft semi (or modified) vee aluminum boat.

 

[Texasmark]

Yes for sure much confusion. For simplicity sake, let's just say there are only 3 types of aluminum boat hulls. Obviously, there are others but they are not common. I qualified the statement by saying aluminum, since a Jon boat is usually made that way.

First is the Jon boat. It has a flat bottom and a square bow. The width at the bow is slightly less than in the middle of the boat.

Alternately, there is the V-hull boat, and that has a pointy bow. There are 2 types. The smaller ones are called semi-vees, and the V of the bow (the stem) flattens out when it reaches the bottom. The bottom of the boat is flat at the transom. The second type is the Deep-V. Here the V goes all the way to the stern.

So, if you look at the bow of the boat you can determine whether is a Jon or a V. Look at the transom and you can see if its a Semi- or a Deep-V.

The art of "planing" means that the boat is skimming on top of the water rather than pushing the water ahead. It also means that roughly the front half of the hull is out of the water. Only the aft half contacts the water. Any Jon or V hull boat can plane if it has enough HP.

Jon boats ride rough in anything but calm seas. If there is fair wave action the boat will pound the crap out of you. A Semi-V will provide a much better ride and enable the use in bigger waters. A Deep-V rides the best of all.

The pic shows a perfect plane. Of course, this is a wooden boat (Semi-V), which offers optimum buoyancy, handling and ride with minimal HP.

Reference: The picture. So that's the "rest of the story" (Paul Harvey, news commentator). Nice, thanks for posting.

 

[Texasmark]

I think most would agree that Jack boats ride poorer than even the shallowest V-hull.

I've seen guys throw a small Jon in the back of a pickup truck, so they didn't need a trailer. But, truth be told, I often did the same with a 14' V-hull. On a trip from lake to lake in the Adirondacks we even put a 14 footer on the roof of a 1963 Chevy Bel-Air.

So, my uneducated comment is.....why would anyone want a Jon instead of a Semi-V?

I had a 10' Lowe Lake John with a Merc 7 ½ and when it rained, a nearby lake was a Catfish haven. Before I had a truck, I kept it on top of my work car, a 19X4 (forget which decade, 6 or 7 maybe) 4 door Buick Special. I'd get up early and run the lines, come back home, get cleaned up and off to work only to be back out after work. This super action lasted about 4-5 days after the rain.

Later I bought a Toyota truck, (back when the little one was all they made) 1975 comes to mind, with one of the upper cut (clear span inside) toppers, built like a trailer house with crank out windows and all. I welded up some ¾" electrical conduit covered with lawn chair plastic type strips to make a couple of flip up bunks and a rack on top to carry that boat. I could load and unload it by myself off the topper.

Great sport it was.

 

[Texasmark]

Using this image as example, would this be a "Pad Hull"?

"Pad Hull" = Mod V , correct?

Absolutely NOT a Pad hull! That looks like the Semi-V (or Modified-V my previous error, should have said Semi-V.....brain fart) 1960's 14'ish Alumacraft boatsI mentioned earlier. Pull up some stern pictures of Ranger Bass Boats.....those are Pad hulls.