Bleeding brakes

[jlinder]

OK, need some help.<br /><br />I have a 4 Winds trailer. Surge brakes. I need to bleed the brakes.<br /><br />Problem - everything I read talks about pumping the brakes by inserting a screwdriver in a slot on the top that allows you to pump the brakes.<br /><br />Problem - my setup has no such slot, ir seemingly any way to pump the brakes without hooking it up to the car and backing up.<br /><br />I suspect I am missing something very simple, but I just can't find it. Help.<br /><br />I would post photos, but I have been told I can't post them here, just put in a link to somewhere else the picture resides. I don't have any other area. Anyone have a spot I can post the pictures to?

 

[jlinder]

Re: Bleeding brakes

Sorry for this, but I just found my answer. I found that the coupler had markings calling it a Titan Aero-6000. <br /><br />Searched and found it listed on the web, and found the manual ( http://www.titandist.com/pdfs/aero6000-actuator.pdf ).<br /><br />Interesting procedure for bleeding the brakes. There is no slot or anything. They say to wrap the safety chains around a 2 x 4 and use the wood as a lever to push the hitch in just like the car would.<br /><br />Yeah, this shows I should have tried harder to find the info on the web, but I thought I would leave the postings up in the hope it helps someone.

 

[Kiekhaeferscurse]

Re: Bleeding brakes

Jack L, if you do a lot of brake set ups (like I'm stuck with) try using a little hand held vacuum pump on the bleeders, works like a charm.<br />Cheers

 

[jlinder]

Re: Bleeding brakes

Can you describe the vacumn pump? How big is it, where does it hook up, etc.?<br /><br />Does it suck from the bleed screw? If so, I wonder if I could use the equipment I have for changing oil. <br /><br />You vacumn a small can, then push the hose down the dipstick, then open the valve.<br /><br />????

 

[Kiekhaeferscurse]

Re: Bleeding brakes

For the life, Of me I cant remember manufacturer of mine( will look on monday its at the shop), but all it's just a little gun, with a resvoir, a guage & a release valve, I attach a clear piece of tube to it, crack brake bleeder (at wheels) and draw fluid thru it, thus purging the lines of air.<br />P.S.You can also use it to test your gearcase's for vacuum leaks(seals)<br />Just popped into my head its called a mytovac (not sure if that speeling is correct)<br /><br />Hope this helps, it wasnt expensive to buy

 

[Yepblaze]

Re: Bleeding brakes

I've gravity bled many a brake system without incident or problems.<br /><br />Just keep the hitch high. and start at the farthest bleeder. When the fluid dribbles out nicely, close that one and go to the next.<br /><br />Just an FYI so you know. Most times the brakes are not working well or take a lot of surge coupler travel before actuating, they need adjustment (at the wheel), and not bleeding.<br /><br /><br />If you need to pump the brakes you can block the trailer wheels real well and cautiously use the truck forward and backward. Otherwise a big crescent wrench on the lip of the ones with a pivoting tip, or any rigged up pry bar arangement that you might devise will work

 

[NYMINUTE]

Re: Bleeding brakes

Pull your insert, and ball. Put the ball into the coupler, lock it, and push down for brake action. It worked great on my trailmaster. Easy enough for my wife to operate.

 

[jlinder]

Re: Bleeding brakes

NYMINUTE,<br /><br />Let me make sure I have this right. Remmove the hitch insert from the car. Take the insert with ball on it and lock it into the coupler. <br /><br />Then by pushing down on the insert that will pump the brake? Just want to verify.<br /><br />BTW - read the manual for the brakes. Not only complicated procedure to pump the brakes, but they say you should test it with their procedure every time you take the trailer out. <br /><br />How realistic. The lawyers doing a CYA

 

[Lou C]

Re: Bleeding brakes

A company called Lisle makes something called a one man brake bleeder. It is a little plastic jug you fill partly up with brake fluid with a clear plastic tube on it. The tube is conncected to the bleed valve on the wheel cylinder. After filling the master cylinder with brake fluid, you fill the little jug with fluid, place the plastic line on the bleeder valve, and open the valve. You then pump the actuator (as described above) until no bubbles are seen in the clear line. Close the bleeder valve. Repeat for the other wheel cylinder. Note: make sure you fill up the master cylinder first, and check frequently while bleeding to make sure the level does not drop too low, which would suck air into the master and you would have to start over again.<br />If you can find out the manufacturer of the actuator (call or e-mail the trailer manufacturer) you may be able to get more specific instructions to do. I installed a new surge system on my trailer this summer, I was able bleed the system (Tie Down model 66 actuator) in about 5 minutes. I had done it years before on some of the old air cooled VWs I owned back in the 70s.

 

[Yepblaze]

Re: Bleeding brakes

I think that up down thing with the ball and hitch will work fine on the actuators that pivot down on the tip to actuate. But for one that goes in and out it may not be applible.

 

[NYMINUTE]

Re: Bleeding brakes

Originally posted by Jack L:<br /> NYMINUTE,<br /><br />Let me make sure I have this right. Remmove the hitch insert from the car. Take the insert with ball on it and lock it into the coupler. <br /><br />Then by pushing down on the insert that will pump the brake? Just want to verify.<br /><br />BTW - read the manual for the brakes. Not only complicated procedure to pump the brakes, but they say you should test it with their procedure every time you take the trailer out. <br /><br />How realistic. The lawyers doing a CYA

Mine is a trailmaster, the actuator moves up and down. read yepblaze's post. Some do do in and out. Good luck

 

[jlinder]

Re: Bleeding brakes

I will check, but pretty sure mine is in and out and don't think NYMINUTE's approach will work.<br /><br />On the other hand, using the insert and pulling it back with a pully or something might do very well.

 

[Bondo]

Re: Bleeding brakes

Well,..... What I do is,<br /><br />Bleed the Master Cyl.(by hand)... Attach the lines...Open the bleeders,+ let gravity work till I see fluid.....And close them........<br />Then I'll hook up the truck.... Block All the wheels on the trailer,+ Back up againest the blocks..... Set the parking brake,... <br />Go back,+ Crack the Bleeders...... Roll ahead againest the front blocks,... back up,+ do it again......<br />Shouldn't take more than a couple, few times........

 

[DJ]

Re: Bleeding brakes

Bondo's got it right.

 

[jlinder]

Re: Bleeding brakes

I suspect that is what I will do. Of course I start with pulling the pads, find out why pad one one side is more worn than the other, etc.<br /><br />One tip I got from the manual was interesting. When you hear surge brakes "clunk" when they are applied, it can mean that they need to be checked. (Working from memory here). <br /><br />I guess if if goes to the end either there is too much travel. Either you have air in the lines or the brakes may be too warn.<br /><br />I had heard that a clunk was a good sound. Manual leads me to believe it is a bad sound.

 

[Lou C]

Re: Bleeding brakes

Some newer actuators that use a damper like the Tie Down do not clunk like the older ones, unless they are low on fluid or are way out of adjustment.<br />I like the one man bleeder because using the clear plastic tube and the little jug full of fluid keeps the system from sucking air back in. Years ago we used the same idea, except with a clear plastic hose in a (cleaned out) Coke bottle....

 

[rwidman]

Re: Bleeding brakes

The "one man bleeder" is about $6.00 at any auto parts store.

 

[Triton II]

Re: Bleeding brakes

There's this system which uses a vacuum pump. It's designed to be used for motorcycle brakes, but may well work on trailers too...<br /> http://www.webbikeworld.com/Motorcy...orcycle-brakes/bleeding-motorcycle-brakes.htm

 

[jlinder]

Re: Bleeding brakes

With all this talk of vacumning the wheel cylinder or just putting a tube on the end with it going into a bottle raises a question.<br /><br />When I bleed automotive brakes it is:<br /><br />1. Someone presses on the brake pedal.<br />2. 2nd person opens bleeder letting brake fluid come out tube until pedal goes to floor.<br />3. 2nd person clises bleeder<br />4. First person releases brake letting pedal come to the top.<br />5. Repeat keeping an eye on the master cylinder fluid level until you are sure you have all the air out.<br /><br />Discussions here lead me to believe you can vacumn the wheel cylinder bleeder valve and just let it suck the fluid through.<br /><br />Hoefully I don't sound dumb, but can someone clarify?

 

[Triton II]

Re: Bleeding brakes

No need to pump through when you can suck using the vacuum pump. Same principle (uses the fact that the fluid is not compressible) just a different method. So your last statement is correct, you can simply vacuum the fluid out through the bleed nipple until the fluid runs clear (without any bubbles, so don't forget to replenish the reservoir) and then close the nipple up.