Best way to free steering cable retainer nut stuck on tilt tube shaft

havoc_squad

Senior Chief Petty Officer
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Mar 5, 2011
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I have the standard outboard steering setup that appears corrosion free that I am needing to get the steering cable nut off that bolts to the tilt tube.

The issue is the tilt tube keeps spinning even when I have a wrench on the tilt tube nut and attempting to loosen the nut. I've disconnected the steering cable from the helm before I started working on this.

I don't think it has ever been loosened since installed when the boat was made in 1990.

Any tips on how on freeing up the steering cable retainer nut off the tilt tube shaft so it won't spin with it.?
 

saltchuckmatt

Commander
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Jul 19, 2019
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2,641
I have the standard outboard steering setup that appears corrosion free that I am needing to get the steering cable nut off that bolts to the tilt tube.

The issue is the tilt tube keeps spinning even when I have a wrench on the tilt tube nut and attempting to loosen the nut. I've disconnected the steering cable from the helm before I started working on this.

I don't think it has ever been loosened since installed when the boat was made in 1990.

Any tips on how on freeing up the steering cable retainer nut off the tilt tube shaft so it won't spin with it.?
I've had many issues with steering cables and such but not that exact issue. You should be able to get a pipe wrench on the other side to hold the tube while you spin the nut off on the other side.

You could use jam nuts also.
 

Diplomasta

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Feb 27, 2021
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If you have a 1 5/16" wrench you can hold the nut on the other side of the tube and temporarily tighten the tube down to the opposite nut to stop the spinning. Then tap the wrench with a hammer on the steering cable nut you want to pop loose.
 

oldboat1

Fleet Admiral
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Apr 3, 2002
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9,612
Get some ATF in the threads to loosen, and give it some time. Then use a piece of rubber gasket to grip the tilt tube, and use a vise grip or similar to carefully hold the tube without damaging it. Work on the nut to loosen and remove.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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Mix 50%ATF with 50%acetone for the best penetrating oil on earth
 

Diplomasta

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Feb 27, 2021
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I literally performed the above mentioned procedure last week, for this exact reason, and got the nut loose in 5 seconds. Try it.
 

havoc_squad

Senior Chief Petty Officer
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Mar 5, 2011
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738
A re-try of taking a pair of vise grips on the steering cable metal crimp part, a cresnet wrench on the steering cable nut, then moving it back and forth harshly back and forth like an impact gun freed up the nut.

There was some garbage that looked like possibly liquid plumbers tape on the threads. A Whitish tan color.

Unfortunately as expected, the rear of the boat setup will require me to pull the motor out for me to remove the steering cable. The model for the size printed on the cable is probably in the inaccessible area.
 
Last edited:

saltchuckmatt

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Yikes, some stuff I can't even understand. Top says nut is loose and down a little ways says no deal. Nut is stuck.

Pretty sure where you put the vise grips does nothing. Picture would help. Even if you cut the cable you still have to deal with the nut to get a new one on so not sure how to advise.

You will need to pull the motor to remove the tilt brackets and other components so it just gets more fun.

What size motor was this again?
 

havoc_squad

Senior Chief Petty Officer
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Mar 5, 2011
Messages
738
Yikes, some stuff I can't even understand. Top says nut is loose and down a little ways says no deal. Nut is stuck.

Pretty sure where you put the vise grips does nothing. Picture would help. Even if you cut the cable you still have to deal with the nut to get a new one on so not sure how to advise.

You will need to pull the motor to remove the tilt brackets and other components so it just gets more fun.

What size motor was this again?

I have edited my original post and moved these things down below to make it easier to follow.

The steering cable nut is now off. The way I got it off I did not expect to work, but it did.

The following below are follow-up questions underlying the reason why I am trying to remove the steering cable.

It is a run of the mill OMC V4 crossflow with power trim/tilt made in 1990.

1. The previous week I applied just enough heat on the steering cable nut after putting PB blaster penetrating oil to get it loosened up. It got warm enough to briefly smoke off the PB blaster and I then stopped with the heat. Then tried to clamp on the steering cable crimp with vise grips and move the nut back and forth with no success.

Do I consider the steering cable compromised for that limited amount of heat applied and get rid of it or is that being paranoid?

2. What is the best anti-corrosion coating to put on the tilt tube threads for the steering cable nut? Aviation form a gasket or something else?

3. Does removing the lower unit make it easier to deal with the outboard on an engine hoist or harder? (I'm using the OEM flywheel puller/lift ring setup) I'm thinking easier because of ground clearance issues while on the boat but also concerned about engine balance when off the boat.

4. For one man engine removal operations, how do most people tighten or loosen the outboard mounting bolts that are unreachable unless a second person is involved?

Put vice grips on the bolt head and block its path from spinning?
 

saltchuckmatt

Commander
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Jul 19, 2019
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Steering cables typically can fail two ways back by the motor. When you get it out, if you can, you can then determine if it's no good.

I use Evinrude triple guard grease for stuff like that.

If your lower unit has to come off than yes it might make it easier to move around. At the very least it will be lighter.

If it's just you and it has the nylon nuts that it should have a well placed wrench somewhere should get them off.

What are you going to pull it off with?
 

havoc_squad

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Mar 5, 2011
Messages
738
Steering cables typically can fail two ways back by the motor. When you get it out, if you can, you can then determine if it's no good.

I use Evinrude triple guard grease for stuff like that.

If your lower unit has to come off than yes it might make it easier to move around. At the very least it will be lighter.

If it's just you and it has the nylon nuts that it should have a well placed wrench somewhere should get them off.

What are you going to pull it off with?

The usual 2 ton cherry picker hoist Did a powerhead rebuild on it so no issue.

Should have plenty of clearance at the longest hoist extension rating at 1000 lbs, I don't want to deal with awkward outboard engine angles lifting it off so if taking the lower unit off makes that job easier, off it goes.
 
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