best place to get reman 5.7 mercruiser

[78 Thompson]

Wondering where the best place to buy a remanufactured 5.7 engine would be.
Reading the reviews of some of the companies, its like every other engine they sell are bad when the customer gets them, who can I trust to build a decent engine?
I was checking out Engines Direct on ebay and their reviews didn't look too bad, but then I typed in Engines Direct Reviews and they dont look good at all.

 

[alldodge]

Many here have come from Michigan Motorz

 

[Scott Danforth]

I would start with your local machine shop and rebuild yours. This will be your lowest cost, however require you to turn some wrenches

if you want just a long block, you can get them from Michigan Motorz, or ATK engines (also available via Summit and Jegs). This will be a moderate cost and still require you to turn a wrench or two

If you want a fully upfit and turn-key bobtail. then Michigan Motorz or any Mercruiser dealer. this will be the highest cost, with minimal wrench turning.

 

[kenny nunez]

Another source of new marine short blocks or complete packages,
Marine Power from Pontchtoula, La. Their engines are also sold around the country.

 

[Scott06]

In addition to the places mentioned Mich Motorz and Marine Power, consider getting a new base engine.

In 2015 I got a partial engine package from Michigan Motorz that was built starting with a new base engine. In the end it wasn't that much cost difference (of course more diff now) but I did it exactly because of what you mention hit and miss reviews.

unless you have a local machine shop you trust and can meet your timeline best bet is new as these are the same engines Mecruiser, Marine Power, and Volvo Penta use to make their power packages. Michigan Motorz was also one of the few places that the engine warranty did not (at the time) would be honored if I installed the engine.

on the machine shop side I have been waiting 2.5 years for the engine for my 65 GTO to be rebuilt... I went out and bought a new core block and heads so when I can use my car for assuming it will be a while until I get it back

 

[78 Thompson]

I would start with your local machine shop and rebuild yours. This will be your lowest cost, however require you to turn some wrenches

if you want just a long block, you can get them from Michigan Motorz, or ATK engines (also available via Summit and Jegs). This will be a moderate cost and still require you to turn a wrench or two

If you want a fully upfit and turn-key bobtail. then Michigan Motorz or any Mercruiser dealer. this will be the highest cost, with minimal wrench turning.

You are probably right about a local machine shop, but the one I called yesterday was about 10 weeks out, and I probably could buy the ATK from Jegs at the same cost or maybe cheaper.
But then the reviews for ATK are probably the worst I have seen.
I guess I should check a different machine shop to compare prices, I’m thinking the guy I called was kinda high priced.

 

[Scott06]

You are probably right about a local machine shop, but the one I called yesterday was about 10 weeks out, and I probably could buy the ATK from Jegs at the same cost or maybe cheaper.
But then the reviews for ATK are probably the worst I have seen.
I guess I should check a different machine shop to compare prices, I’m thinking the guy I called was kinda high priced.

There are so few guys doing machine work that I would think you would be hard pressed to do better.

here is a reman - https://marineengines4less.com/remanufactured-5-7l-vortec-1997-up-marine-base-engine

same place in house built new base with dart blocks

New 5.7L Vortec (1997-Up) Marine Base Engine

Family owned and operated with over 40 years in the marine engine and parts industry. Our Florida location provides you with affordable marine engines and parts

marineengines4less.com

Gm marine made new base https://marineengines4less.com/new-gm-5-7l-vortec-1997-up-marine-base-engine/

At $4500 for the dart block built vs $3500 for reman? The GM built new is $5600

I think in 2015 when I did mine the base engine was $3400

 

[Scott Danforth]

up until covid, you could build a 350 or 377 for about $3500 with new parts. $700 block and $650 set of heads from GMPP, $800 comp cam K-kit, Melling oil pump, felpro gasket kit and a $1100 rotating assembly

Today a new SCAT rotating assembly is within $10 between a stock 3.48" and a stroked 3.75" for under $1450 from competition products or $1675 from skip white

Today its about $5k to build new because you need an aftermarket block. good thing there are still millions of core motors out there. unfortunatly a hot-tank, line-hone, deck, bore and hone job on a V8 is about $800-$1000 today. a good reman use to be able to be done for $1500 about 10-15 years ago. today its about $4k for a complete reman

Depending on where you live, if there is a fair amount of racing.....there is a fair amount of machine shops

the dart block is many times better than the factory casting

However @78 Thompson , are you planning to repower your 470 powered boat? if so, find a complete longtail to get the appropriate bits

 

[78 Thompson]

There are so few guys doing machine work that I would think you would be hard pressed to do better.

here is a reman - https://marineengines4less.com/remanufactured-5-7l-vortec-1997-up-marine-base-engine

same place in house built new base with dart blocks

New 5.7L Vortec (1997-Up) Marine Base Engine

Family owned and operated with over 40 years in the marine engine and parts industry. Our Florida location provides you with affordable marine engines and parts

marineengines4less.com

Gm marine made new base https://marineengines4less.com/new-gm-5-7l-vortec-1997-up-marine-base-engine/

At $4500 for the dart block built vs $3500 for reman? The GM built new is $5600

I think in 2015 when I did mine the base engine was $3400

So it looks like the only GM 5.7 is the vortec, are they discontinuing them too at some point?
Mine is a 96 pre vortec with the roller cam and 12 bolt intake. Kinda looks like that engine would only be available as a reman, or the Dart with flat tappet lifters. which probably isn't a huge deal, but my engine with the roller cam is 250HP with the 2 barrel, anyone know what the flat tappet with 2 barrel is for HP?
I haven't looked into this, but I'm assuming my block is Not the same as the Vortec?

 

[Scott Danforth]

The heads make it vortec.

If you are going reman, I would go vortec heads, 4-barrel, and stroked crank. 320hp-330hp. With a decent cam, and a good intake, 380-420hp

The flat tappet 2-barrel was 215 HP or so

 

[78 Thompson]

up until covid, you could build a 350 or 377 for about $3500 with new parts. $700 block and $650 set of heads from GMPP, $800 comp cam K-kit, Melling oil pump, felpro gasket kit and a $1100 rotating assembly

Today a new SCAT rotating assembly is within $10 between a stock 3.48" and a stroked 3.75" for under $1450 from competition products or $1675 from skip white

Today its about $5k to build new because you need an aftermarket block. good thing there are still millions of core motors out there. unfortunatly a hot-tank, line-hone, deck, bore and hone job on a V8 is about $800-$1000 today. a good reman use to be able to be done for $1500 about 10-15 years ago. today its about $4k for a complete reman

Depending on where you live, if there is a fair amount of racing.....there is a fair amount of machine shops

the dart block is many times better than the factory casting

However @78 Thompson , are you planning to repower your 470 powered boat? if so, find a complete longtail to get the appropriate bits

No this is not to repower the Thompson,
I have a 96 Chaparral that came with the 5.7
We do have a few machine shops around, I'm close to Minneapolis/St.Paul area. I called Hennen but he is around $5000 to build one and was around $3000 just to machine the engine and heads and I would have to assemble, I'm not even sure if that was everything I needed or what. I think he wanted to sell me a complete engine and at $3000 for me to assemble it, I didnt think that was a great Idea anyway.
I was told to check with a shop just over the border in WI, to see what he charges, but haven't got ahold of him yet.

 

[78 Thompson]

The heads make it vortec.

If you are going reman, I would go vortec heads, 4-barrel, and stroked crank. 320hp-330hp. With a decent cam, and a good intake, 380-420hp

The flat tappet 2-barrel was 215 HP or so

So my 96 has the mechanical fuel pump, the 97 up does'nt right? it's electric?
So do all the 97 up vortec engines have roller cam and lifters? Or is it just the heads that are making more power?
The only problem with switching to Vortec is more of an expense with the intake and carb. I'm just trying to stay under $3000, but thats looking like its not going to be easy to do. lol
But man with a 350 putting out 215, I might as well have the 4.3 lol

 

[Scott Danforth]

The heads alone give between 30-40 more HP than the 12-bolt non-vortec motors because the ports are higher allowing so much more airflow to the motor

The roller cam can be more aggressive to give you a whole lot more power. However the cam installed in your motor is extremely mild

Stepping down to a flat tappet and keeping the 2-barrel not only costs you power, however the fuel consumption is higher.

All 1988 and later blocks have casting provisions for roller cams, many were machined. Only some got rollers after 1991

All SBC motors manufactured 1996 and later have roller cams

I would rebuild your current block, get a slightly better cam, go vortec heads. If you have to even look at the crank, buy a new rotating assembly. It's hundreds of dollars cheaper to buy new than to grind your crank or recondition your rods. At that point, I would go stroker.

With careful planning and shopping you can stay around your $3k budget for rebuild

Then, since you have a new motor, get a heat exchanger and never run raw water thru the motor again and protect your investment

 

[Scott Danforth]

told to check with a shop just over the border in WI, to see what he charges, but haven't got ahold of him yet.

If you can get to Green Bay. Stop in at Baril Engine and see Larry Sannes, or to Manitowoc and see Scotty and Jake at Manitowoc Motor Machine. They are busy during race season

 

[Scott Danforth]

BTW, a 1996 boat run in Minnesota for 3 months a year should not need a rebuild unless something went away. You probably do not even have 1000 hours.

What indicates it needs a rebuild?

 

[Scott06]

So it looks like the only GM 5.7 is the vortec, are they discontinuing them too at some point?
Mine is a 96 pre vortec with the roller cam and 12 bolt intake. Kinda looks like that engine would only be available as a reman, or the Dart with flat tappet lifters. which probably isn't a huge deal, but my engine with the roller cam is 250HP with the 2 barrel, anyone know what the flat tappet with 2 barrel is for HP?
I haven't looked into this, but I'm assuming my block is Not the same as the Vortec?

they still make the pre vortec - 260 hp (w/ 4 bbl carb), 12 bolt intake , mechanical fuel pump

So my 96 has the mechanical fuel pump, the 97 up does'nt right? it's electric?
So do all the 97 up vortec engines have roller cam and lifters? Or is it just the heads that are making more power?
The only problem with switching to Vortec is more of an expense with the intake and carb. I'm just trying to stay under $3000, but thats looking like its not going to be easy to do. lol
But man with a 350 putting out 215, I might as well have the 4.3 lol

GM changed over in 96 to vortec which has electrical pump. They take a year or so to work through Merc & the boat builder inventories to get into the boat. I believe they were roller cams since the late 80's so hp diff is the heads.

if you want to stay under $3k look in wrecking yard, CL, of FBMP for a truck motor, swap core plugs, head gaskets, circ pump. Even if you find a running 350 car engine swap as long as compression is stock drop in a marine cam and the above parts. Would think you would find one cheaply that way.

If you like the boat and want to keep it worth the upgrade to new vortec base engine and 4 bbl, but its easy for me to spend your money

 

[78 Thompson]

BTW, a 1996 boat run in Minnesota for 3 months a year should not need a rebuild unless something went away. You probably do not even have 1000 hours.

What indicates it needs a rebuild?

I just bought the boat knowing that the head gasket was bad on on side, thinking cheap fix, just resurface the heads and throw new head gaskets in. But I took the boat to the lake just to make sure what it was doing ran somewhat ok for 2 bad cylinders, but came home and pulled plugs to do a compression test and water came pouring out. All 4cylinders on the one side were full of water.
So being I just bought this, the previous owner must have let water sit in there for some time, cylinders are rusted and pitted.
So cheap an easy turned into expensive and way more work. Lol

 

[78 Thompson]

they still make the pre vortec - 260 hp (w/ 4 bbl carb), 12 bolt intake , mechanical fuel pump

GM changed over in 96 to vortec which has electrical pump. They take a year or so to work through Merc & the boat builder inventories to get into the boat. I believe they were roller cams since the late 80's so hp diff is the heads.

if you want to stay under $3k look in wrecking yard, CL, of FBMP for a truck motor, swap core plugs, head gaskets, circ pump. Even if you find a running 350 car engine swap as long as compression is stock drop in a marine cam and the above parts. Would think you would find one cheaply that way.

If you like the boat and want to keep it worth the upgrade to new vortec base engine and 4 bbl, but its easy for me to spend your money

I don’t know too much about these, but my engine with the 2 barrel is supposed to be 250 hp it’s the 350 magnum, so the regular 350 is 260 with the 4 barrel is what I have heard.
Yeah I was thinking about the truck engine, but I was thinking I would be lucky to find one with 150,000 miles, thinking most would be more than that.
So my question is, would it even be worth putting an engine with 150,000 miles in a boat? Would it last 5-10 years? I have no idea.

 

[Scott06]

I don’t know too much about these, but my engine with the 2 barrel is supposed to be 250 hp it’s the 350 magnum, so the regular 350 is 260 with the 4 barrel is what I have heard.
Yeah I was thinking about the truck engine, but I was thinking I would be lucky to find one with 150,000 miles, thinking most would be more than that.
So my question is, would it even be worth putting an engine with 150,000 miles in a boat? Would it last 5-10 years? I have no idea.

If you find one with hood compression and oil pressure probably would last, ten years who knows, depends on use. Just trying to offer an option at the price point you mentioned. Like I said if you want to keep it best bet is to get longer arms to reach deeper into the pocket

As far as hp you could probably look it up in some old literature but don't think the 350 Magnum came 2 bbl, pretty sure the pre vortec 350 was rated at 260 hp with a 4 bbl. Vortex seems to be rated 290-330 hp depending on who u believe crank vs prop hp etc

 

[Scott Danforth]

A good motor with 150k will last another 15-30 years in a boat with proper maintenance