Beginner beginning a complete restoration - Starcraft 18

Able2bloom

Cadet
Joined
May 24, 2021
Messages
12
I think the demolition work is done. All I have to do now is spray it out then onto marking my leaky rivets. My uncle has an aircraft riveting gun and the desire to help me with this. He described the bit as flat. But I was under the impression I wanted a concave bit. I know most people use air hammers but I figured riveting gun would be better. What do you think?
 

Attachments

  • 6EA7C0C9-F191-4BEB-BC62-147F52AF5833.jpeg
    6EA7C0C9-F191-4BEB-BC62-147F52AF5833.jpeg
    2.1 MB · Views: 16
  • 88F2DBE9-B489-4F84-B1C7-D72891D04480.jpeg
    88F2DBE9-B489-4F84-B1C7-D72891D04480.jpeg
    2.2 MB · Views: 16

Hodgey4489

Cadet
Joined
Dec 14, 2020
Messages
28
I think the demolition work is done. All I have to do now is spray it out then onto marking my leaky rivets. My uncle has an aircraft riveting gun and the desire to help me with this. He described the bit as flat. But I was under the impression I wanted a concave bit. I know most people use air hammers but I figured riveting gun would be better. What do you think?
The aircraft gun is better than a standard air hammer. The bit you will need for his gun can be found in the sticky. It is called a brazier head and 3/16 I believe is the size you’re looking for.
 

SHSU

Lieutenant Junior+Starmada Splash Of The Year 2019
Joined
Mar 8, 2017
Messages
1,697
A aircraft riveting gun is the way to go. As I mentioned in a previous post, traditional impact guns wont do the trick.

As for the bit, a brazier head and bucking bar are needed to do it correctly.

Not sure how in-depth you are planning to get, but I am pretty sure the team recommends additional bracing along the sides (Side of hull to bottom hull). The aluminum skin rips along the splash rail. Looping in @Watermann on his thoughts regarding this.

SHSU
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,773
A aircraft riveting gun is the way to go. As I mentioned in a previous post, traditional impact guns wont do the trick.

As for the bit, a brazier head and bucking bar are needed to do it correctly.

Not sure how in-depth you are planning to get, but I am pretty sure the team recommends additional bracing along the sides (Side of hull to bottom hull). The aluminum skin rips along the splash rail. Looping in @Watermann on his thoughts regarding this.

SHSU

Yes on the side braces to strengthen and limit the possibility of having the side split out of your boat. I wish that SC would have figured this out sooner.

The issue is.

y4mkWFGzKldL_G5vJE9Wi_a2vqde2yBZ0JYt21piAqKEXKE_LggFyxNOldasrtn6ach9JdeT7366EHBmUSzoP_3obpesoJ4JbJhVCh-PZmxQ0Zm2xvUlNJuynJh4XCaLddT6eXwjr3RA1jLsu7gi5CnyXXm2RDZnCV1Q5DM9v3QpXmkwH_GaxJSnCd31-P3Mz6c


The fix are the braces isolating this area we call the spray rail to limit the flexing and possible cracking. SC factory put them under the rib ends but they also bent the ends to allow the braces to fit flush.

y4mQmoREx4phr4yKnOVyCP1v78cMbOR6UNfVkD7ku_d3rEPKUVLN-bMAscK8HNtGO-oYHpPXBcqICAoW0lm9GP9DoHKzyRMHVe0vqI8Up-Ku8h-qxfR5YXB9CNiIJguJZ_wPjZHZ8LAEXg8VxeUKM4lv1uAa3D6G6_b4pp-8gznfI_j27Wb-4N-VMch-OLjvSJY
 
Top