Beginner beginning a complete restoration - Starcraft 18

[Able2bloom]

Well..... I bought a project... I wanted to go out fishing this summer but instead it looks like I'll be rebuilding a boat... I bought a 18 foot Starcraft and after putting it in the water for 15 minutes I realized that it is leaks about 8 gallons an hour. I have found several loose rivets and plan on removing the floor, the leaky rivets and replacing them with solid rivets that will be coated with fresh Gluvit. (I know you all like photos and I will attach some when I get home.)

Before I buy a bunch of product and tools I want to make sure that these are the right tools for the job. What are your opinions about the following air hammer, solid rivet, and air hammer riveting shank

Air hammer (Harbor freight and tools) Which one should I get? : https://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools-compressors/air-tools/air-hammers.html

Rivets: I think these are the right dimensions. What are your thoughts? They are anodized is this a problem? : https://aircraft-tool.com/shop/detail.aspx?id=MS20470AD-6-6

Riveting shank for air hammer: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F5KPPV...jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

 

[Moserkr]

Welcome! Definitely pay the mob dues when you get home . Sounds like you have a fun project. Its leaking like mine was before I started my rehab. I had plugged mine with blind rivets over the summer and was making due before my winter tear down plan, but lost one whole rivet and almost sank lol. Definitely worth fixing right. Ill let the seasoned pros address your riveting concerns. Have fun with the project!

 

[mattsteg]

Let's see the boat! Amazingly the only leak of note in mine when I got it was the shift bellows on the outdrive. Like @Moserkr says for sure good to fix it right, but (assuming you have the space, ability, and inclination to work on it over the winter) it's not anathema to use a temporary solution to not miss on a boating season completely.

 

[SHSU]

Welcome, sounds like you got some fun in your future

To answer your questions, see below:

Rivet gun: skip Harbor freight, wont do the work. I tried, then an amazon special, finally paid for a used aircraft rivet gun that worked.

Rivets: See below sticky @Watermann put together for people.
https://forums.iboats.com/threads/rivets-rivets-and-more-rivets-repaired.741809/

Where to purchase Rivets: JC is where most of us get ours
https://rivetsinstock.com/

Also, your solid driver heads can be gotten at JC as well.

SHSU

 

[Able2bloom]

That you all for the advise so far! SHSU, I

Welcome, sounds like you got some fun in your future

To answer your questions, see below:

Rivet gun: skip Harbor freight, wont do the work. I tried, then an amazon special, finally paid for a used aircraft rivet gun that worked.

Rivets: See below sticky @Watermann put together for people.
https://forums.iboats.com/threads/rivets-rivets-and-more-rivets-repaired.741809/

Where to purchase Rivets: JC is where most of us get ours
https://rivetsinstock.com/

Also, your solid driver heads can be gotten at JC as well.

SHSU

SHSU Thank you for your response. I had read Watermann's post before but I couldn't find it after the hundreds of posts I have read since. It is really informative and provides me with good direction when buying these parts.

 

[Able2bloom]

Here are some photos of the craft. If anybody can identify what model this is I'm curious.

 

[MNhunter1]

That there would be a Starcraft Holiday.

WM's rivet thread/info is also a sticky/favorite that can be found at the top of the Starcraft forum.

 

[Able2bloom]

In order for me to get the floor off I need to get the stairs off. But it seems that the stairs are attached to the dashboard. So I'm assuming that I need to take the dash off too. Is this correct? I'm considering putting a center console in place of the traditional steering arrangement. (Does anybody have any comments/thoughts about this?)

 

[MNhunter1]

The dash, stairs, side panels, splashwell, etc. all contribute to the structural integrity of the hull. This is part of the reason they are all secured to the deck and such. If you are looking at reconfiguring any of this, you'll want to ensure you find other means to account for this. The Starcraft center console configurations were the Mariners or MR models, and you will see they have some additional side supports, bow deck structure, etc. that are solid riveted through the hull and secured to the finished deck.

 

[mattsteg]

In order for me to get the floor off I need to get the stairs off. But it seems that the stairs are attached to the dashboard. So I'm assuming that I need to take the dash off too. Is this correct? I'm considering putting a center council in place of the traditional steering arrangement. (Does anybody have any comments/thoughts about this?)

A center console doesn't make sense unless you also either convert the bow cap into a casting deck or do a "bowectomy". You'd need to reengineer the support structure.

If you really wanted to pull the deck without getting in to the stairs and bow, you could. The question that comes to mind is how much of a teardown/rebuild (and possible reconfigure) are you looking to take on?

 

[Able2bloom]

Another question since my plans are not to rebuild the boat in its original arrangement should I remove these parts carefully and potentially resell them?

 

[Moserkr]

If you want a CC it would be a lot easier to start with a mariner or supersport. Will take a ton of extra work to reinforce everything so the desired build is stable. Id remove everything carefully and at least resell, instead of hack apart a nice holiday. Once its at its bare hull you can decide how to build her back up. You will see how much the hull flexes once its bare, and by reading other threads you will learn about chine bracing as well as other strengthening options. Check your HIN and find out what year she is too.

 

[jbcurt00]

Its older then standardized HINs so that wont help much.

If there is 1, its state issued and will give you the date the state issued it, not when SC built it.

Its a surviving 60s cabin boat, alot of extra work to convert then a closed pr open bow.

 

[mattsteg]

If you want a CC it would be a lot easier to start with a mariner or supersport. Will take a ton of extra work to reinforce everything so the desired build is stable. Id remove everything carefully and at least resell, instead of hack apart a nice holiday. Once its at its bare hull you can decide how to build her back up. You will see how much the hull flexes once its bare, and by reading other threads you will learn about chine bracing as well as other strengthening options. Check your HIN and find out what year she is too.

It's been done of course, with some nice examples here, but if I wanted a center console in the common 18 ft size, I'd spend a good bit of time looking for mariners (and maybe even supersports) before embarking on a full teardown/rebuild of an old, leaky Holiday.

 

[Able2bloom]

A center console doesn't make sense unless you also either convert the bow cap into a casting deck or do a "bowectomy". You'd need to reengineer the support structure.

If you really wanted to pull the deck without getting in to the stairs and bow, you could. The question that comes to mind is how much of a teardown/rebuild (and possible reconfigure) are you looking to take on?

I was thinking about doing a "bowectomy" but it seems that I'm being advised to not make it into a CC. I haven't been able to find a complete forum of someone doing this to a Holiday, especially one with information about placement of additional supports. This is also my first project and I want to complete it and not get overwhelmed.

So.. I guess I'll keep the original plan and stick with the original design, pull the floors, replace the rivets, (leak test) replace the flooring. When it comes to pulling the floor without removing the stairs do you suggest removing the back floor sections and sliding the bow flooring out from underneath as best as I can?

 

[Able2bloom]

Its older then standardized HINs so that wont help much.

If there is 1, its state issued and will give you the date the state issued it, not when SC built it.

Its a surviving 60s cabin boat, alot of extra work to convert then a closed pr open bow.

I'm curious why you think its a surviving 60's cabin boat? I was under the impression that it was from the 70's and I didn't think that there was much room for it to have a cuddy cabin. But I'm incredibly green when it comes to this...

 

[jbcurt00]

I'm curious why you think its a surviving 60's cabin boat? I was under the impression that it was from the 70's and I didn't think that there was much room for it to have a cuddy cabin. But I'm incredibly green when it comes to this...

Apologies, got my new topics/boats jumbled, none of that applies to your boat....

Work getting in the way, going to have to do something about that

 

[jdvasher]

Welcome, If you haven't read through the pinned post on rivets, I highly recommend it. I covers in detail, the whole process.

Rivets, rivets and more rivets! (Repaired)

All of us have to learn a new trade when it comes to restoring our 'gently used' riveted aluminum boats. Disputably Starcraft boats are the most popular and prolific aluminum boat of all time and the same rivet questions come up time and time again. Rather than answer each and every question...

forums.iboats.com

 

[Able2bloom]

Thank you all for all of your thought and advise. I got the steps removed which was a pain in the butt. This allowed the front floor came up with out a problem. It looks like it is the original plywood and it's in stellar condition.

With a little work I was able to get the starboard panel off with out a problem but I had to cut the heads of a few screws attaching the port side panel. While doing this I unfortunately cut into the vinyl. Since the cuts are in a line I feel I can hide these by placing a decretive piece of cedar over them. But then again I may remove the vinyl and paint the wood.

After work I plan on pulling up the last 2 pieces of flooring and remove the white foam boards. I feel I am in luck because the foam was not sprayed in and seems to be in good condition. Can I reuse this foam?

Besides the rat debris that is under the foam it seems pretty clean down there. I'm planning to power wash the inside (this is ok right?) Then I will begin carefully filling her up and adjusting the angle of the trailer unless you think is it easier for me just to put it in the water and mark the leakers.

I'll recap my questions: Can I reuse the foam? Can I power wash the inside of the boat once the floor and foam are removed. When looking for leaks is it better to fill the boat with water or put the boat in the water?

 

[roscoe]

Yes
Yes
Don't fill the boat. Make sure it is clean and dry, then put it in the water.
Use a grease pencil to mark leaks you find.
Some sprinkle flour in the hull to help to see any seeping moisture.