Bay Craft Floor restore

GJ0577

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Joined
Jul 25, 2011
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15
Good day everyone, I have been looking at these rebuild forums for a couple years now and I am now ready to tackle my own project. Ihave to replace the floor in my 1991 Baycraft. all of the original wood has rotted out from under the floor. I have started tearing out the floor, but I have a question before I move on. I know the transom is good, it was replaced before I purchased this mess years ago. Stringers need replacing all the way to the back. I need to remove the aft comparments, I really want to avoid taking off the engine if I can. I am worried about the structural integrity of the boat once I take the rear comparments down if I leave the engine on. I just dont want the weight of the engine to cause any damage to the transom. Off or On? Thanks for any advice. :joyous:





AFT1.jpg AFT2.jpg
 

Woodonglass

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Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,928
If you make some temporary Blocks to hold the lower leg of the motor it shouldn't be a problem When was the transom replaced? What have you done to ensure it's still good? How was the transom replaced without replacing the deck and stringers.
 

ondarvr

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Apr 6, 2005
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11,527
Removing the motor will be one of the easier things you'll need to do, it really doesn't take much time. I would check the transom very closely to ensure they did a good job on the rebuild.
 

GJ0577

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Joined
Jul 25, 2011
Messages
15
Thanks, I honestly wont be able to tell if the transom is actually 100% until I get in there and take a good look at it. It was 6 years ago and the seller gave me reciepts from a reputable boat repair shop. If I happen to find any bit of damage there, then I will go the extra mile to replace it. I actually wondered the same thing about how it was done without the stringers and deck being replaced.
 

Woodonglass

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Dec 29, 2009
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It MIGHT have been done from the outside by cutting away the outer skin. Some shops do them that way. It can be done, and done well if done correctly and you'd never know they had done it that way.
 

GJ0577

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Jul 25, 2011
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15
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Good Day again everyone. It sure has been a long time since I got to work on my boat, everything came to a standstill, for a good reason though. (Got married!!!) It wasn't until recently I was able to get back into it. This is gonna be a slow process though. I have a question about a crack I found where the stringer once was. I am wondering if this may end the project all together. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

​The crack is about 2 feet long.
 

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Woodonglass

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Dec 29, 2009
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Does the crack go Through the hull to the outside. Even if it does it is NOT a show stopper. Actually a fairly easy fix. That's the beauty of a fiberglass hull. Just about anything can be fixed. Basically grind it down drill two holes, one at each end of the crack then lay 2 layers of 1708 on the inside and then grind and place 2 layers of CSM on the outside. She'll look and be as good as new.
 

GJ0577

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Joined
Jul 25, 2011
Messages
15
It definitely does not go through the hull to the outside. Thank You for the advice!
 

GJ0577

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Joined
Jul 25, 2011
Messages
15
No Title

I have been going through a ton of threads on here and reading up on so many folk's restoration processes. Such a huge wealth of information on here for us newcomers. I have my boat totally gutted out ready to begin placing stringers. I see that I should have about a 1/4 space between the stringer and the hull. I am wondering how precise the cut of the stringer needs to be to match the curvature of the hull. I attempted to use the stringers pieces that I cut as templates, but they were pretty beat up. I have some areas that are close to 1/2 inch off the hull and other spots the stringer sits on the hull. Not very precise to sat the least. Also, I notice that it seems everyone uses ply to make the stringers. The original stringers looked like they were 2 x 12. I fabricated my first set with 2 x 12's as well. Big PITA to carry in and out of the boat. Should I ditch the 2 x 12 idea and go ply? I plan to install the gas tank below deck, have the deck 100% sealed with foam in it.
 

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