Automatic Bilge not running

[monkeyyyyyy]

I have a Rule auto sensing bilge that has three wires , black (ground), brown (positive automatic) and brown/white (positive manual). I seem to be having some wiring issues and need guidance please as I’m new to this. I’ve connected to black ground and brown positive (with in line fuse) directly to the battery. Then I ran the brown/white to a 3 way rocker switch at the helm. The rocker switch is On/OFF/Temp On. But…the auto bilge doesn’t turn on (even under water) unless I actually hit the On switch. My intention was to always have power to the auto bilge if the boat is unattended hence the reason I wired it directly to the battery. What have I done wrong here? Appreciate any insight. Thanks.

 

[alldodge]

Welcome
You have it wired correctly might be a bad unit. Which Rule model did you get?

 

[ESGWheel]

Also it is possible the fuse blew, so check that as well (and the rating). And if it’s one of those auto sensing Rule pumps I am thinking of, it has a test push button on them that uses the power from the auto side (brown wire). Thus if you are positive there is power to the brown wire and pushing the test button (or a real test of filling the bilge as you did before) and it does not come on > bad pump as alldodge suggests.

Also, your intention of “auto bilge if the boat is unattended” is spot on. Do not give that up!

 

[monkeyyyyyy]

I can’t recall the exact model without going out there and sticking my head in the hull. But it is one of those that has the test button. I couldnt get the test button to work but thought maybe I was doing something wrong. I’ll try a water test to confirm. Also, do you think it makes a difference which input the brown/white wire is on at the 3-way button? Currently have it at the TEMP ON. Maybe I have that wrong?

 

[ESGWheel]

Also, do you think it makes a difference which input the brown/white wire is on at the 3-way button? Currently have it at the TEMP ON. Maybe I have that wrong?

Does not matter, its ok on the temp.

But before you test again, need to validate that the fuse is not blown or some other issue with the wiring (like a bad connection).

 

[monkeyyyyyy]

If the pump works at the switch where the brown/white wire is, then I can assume that the fault has to be either in the brown wire or the fuse, I think. As I mentioned, I couldn’t get the test button to work but the pump does turn on when using the switch. Thanks for your quick responses!

 

[ESGWheel]

If the pump works at the switch where the brown/white wire is, then I can assume that the fault has to be either in the brown wire or the fuse

This is exactly correct. And there is one other possiblity: a bad sensor in the pump. Pump works on manual but has a bad sensor and does not pump on auto. This is why its important to check the fuse and your connections on the brown wire.

 

[monkeyyyyyy]

It was the fuse! Thank you!!

 

[ESGWheel]

Welcome

And please: make sure it’s correct size. If any doubt, ask. Thanks

 

[monkeyyyyyy]

I put a 5 amp fuse in there. I believe that’s the correct size for the Rule automatic 500 pump.

 

[ESGWheel]

Per their instruction manual (link) on page 21, every 500 GPH unit running on a 12V system has a max of 2.5Amps so 5A fuse is good

 

[dingbat]

Current goes up over time (corrosion, wear and tear, etc.) and as battery voltage drops

In critical applications such as bilge pumps, I fuse the wire, not the component.

 

[ESGWheel]

In critical applications such as bilge pumps, I fuse the wire, not the component.

thanks. good point. my initial concern was underfused for the pump and hence why blown.
So does that translate into using a 15A if 14 gauge wire or 20A if 12 Ga?