Attempting to change DP-SM propshaft seals.

[dypcdiver]

I have hit a problem at the first hurdle, I am unable to move the bearing carrier retainer ring,
I have soaked it in penetrating oil over the last 5 days, I have the Volvo tool to which I have added an extra bar to increase the torque as shown in the photos. I have given the gear casing a good hammering in the area of the retainer ring and even on the ring, I am starting to run out of ideas.

What is the opinion regarding heating the outside of the gear case in the area of the retainer. I am aware that there are "O" rings but I have the new seal kit which includes all of them.
I do not expect to be able to reuse the retainer and I'm about to order a new one $72 in USA €135 ($150.70) here in Spain. Why the huge difference?

Any ideas please?

 

[Lubak572]

Wow surprised with that leverage it won't budge. Mine wasn't that hard.

 

[muc]

Heat is your friend.
1. Air/ acetylene torch is best because it heats fast and the temperature is low enough to not melt the housing.
2. Propane or mapp gas, takes a long time and sometimes it’s not enough.
3. Ox/ acetylene—— danger—— can melt the housing before you can see/stop it.
4. Drill holes thru the retainer in a few places and break the pieces out. Only way if you don’t/can’t use heat.

 

[dypcdiver]

Thanks guys.
I'll try heat and if no go then drilling the ring is the only option.
However I want the new ring so I can look at it first and decide where to drill, I would hate to destroy the threads on the housing.

 

[Lubak572]

I have a couple of pics of my ring, but posting pics here sucks. Send me your email and I can send to you.

 

[dypcdiver]

Lubak572 Thanks for the pics, I am glad that I have not started drilling, as I would have hit the threads.
I can now see that the penetrating oil will not have got past the "O" ring.! I will be trying heat today.

 

[dypcdiver]

For those who are interested. I have finally removed the badly corroded Retainer Ring with the use of the BadBoy spanner which was constructed of 1" ID heavy walled pipe 4 ft long, because the previous 3/4" one bent. (as did the 1" one too)

Heat was applied to the outside for about 10 mins. Then with a trolley jack under the BadBoy and my weight (170 lbs) on the end of a 3 ft breaker bar on the opposite side I finally noticed a little bit of movement. At first I thought that the flutes on the alloy ring might be giving way as at a guess there was more than 1000 ft/lbs of torque being applied. However on inspection the ring had rotated a couple of degrees.
The ring took the best part of 10 mins to eventually be free as it was tight right to the last.

From the photos you can see the charred remains of the "O" ring on the ground after the heat.

I should be outside just now removing the bearing carrier but is raining heavily here in Spain,
I will continue this project on here as I progress with photos etc.

 

[Lubak572]

Good job!

 

[stang32]

if the retaining ring was that hard to come out, i can only imagine how hard its going to be to pull the carrier itself out

 

[dypcdiver]

I knocked up a puller as below and was about to start screwing down on the big bolt when I realised that it was already slack, so I was able to just pull it free by hand.

Massive amount of hard white corrosion in the aft "O" ring groove of the carrier which has been removed now and the whole carrier looks in good condition. Cleaned up the retainer threads and mating surfaces on the outdrive casting, very time consuming as care was needed so no power tools.

Turned my attention to the retainer ring and cleaned that up as well, although I shall not be reusing it, new one ordered. Offered the ring up to the drive and it screws in easily by hand.

 

[dypcdiver]

Thought I'd post an update.
The out drive is still under pressure 36 hours later and has not lost any pressure, I've even tapped the gauge!
Vacuum was at 16 inch M for 3 hours without loss.
I'm well pleased.
Now to sort out the new trim sender & fit a new engine circulating pump.