AQ225D oil presssure

[The Remedy II]

Good Morning,

My 1987 Volvo Aq225D's oil pressure fluxes on the gauge from 13-18 pounds. What's the normal operating oil pressure?

Also these "Pull Neutral" throttles'...does one have to just pull the trigger on the handle, or does it have to be pulled off the wall and the trigger depressed?

Thanxs!

 

[Don S]

Re: AQ225D oil presssure

My 1987 Volvo Aq225D's oil pressure fluxes on the gauge from 13-18 pounds. What's the normal operating oil pressure?

I would hook up a mechanical gauge and see what the oil pressure is really doing and what it really is.
This is from the service manual, and is minimums.
Oil pressure at idling speed, warm engine ........ 0.7 kp/cm2 (10 p.s.i.)
Oil pressure at max. speed, warm engine ......... 2.5?3.16 kp/cm2 (35?45 p.s.i.)

Also these "Pull Neutral" throttle's...does one have to just pull the trigger on the handle, or does it have to be pulled of the wall and the trigger depressed?

Try it both ways and see what happens. Then you will know for sure.

 

[The Remedy II]

Re: AQ225D oil presssure

Thanks again! You've had some good info.

Where's the best place to hook up this gauge?

Oil change in the works. Anything better than 10W-40 for freshwater?

 

[Don S]

Re: AQ225D oil presssure

Remove the oil sending unit and use that hole for your gauge.

Oil wise, here is A thread of many on what oil to use from the Non repair IO forum.
http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=497395

 

[The Remedy II]

Re: AQ225D oil presssure

Update: The oil was a viscus sludge and looked like soft chocolate ice cream. Yet the boat still ran smooth with oil pressure under power. Is there a way to flush all the sludge out the inside of the engine? I should of hooked the gauge up before draining the oil. :facepalm:

Hopefully the oil just went bad because of severe overheating.

 

[The Remedy II]

Re: AQ225D oil presssure

Update: The oil was a viscus sludge and looked like soft chocolate ice cream. Yet the boat still ran smooth with oil pressure under power. Is there a way to flush all the sludge out the inside of the engine? I Should have hooked up the gauge before draining the oil.:facepalm:

Hopefully the oil is just beat from severe overheating.

 

[Don S]

Re: AQ225D oil presssure

Normally a milky oil indicates water in the oil, and in boats usually means a cracked block.
Depending on how much of this mess is actually in the oil pan, it very well may be your problem.
Have a look at this thread.
http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=369864
I would first pressure test the blocks cooling system by blocking off the hoses to the exhaust and making sure it's not cracked.
If it seems ok, then try this to clean the oil.

Warm the engine up. add a couple of quarts of diesel fuel to the oil. Run it 10 minutes more around 1000 rpm.
Change the oil and filter. Put in 3 quarts of new (cheap) oil, and 2 more quarts of diesel fuel.
Run another 10 or 15 minutes and change the oil and filter again. This time put in all new oil. any inexpensive 30W oil and get it between the add and full mark.
Now run the engine and see what your oil pressure looks like.

 

[The Remedy II]

Re: AQ225D oil presssure

Pressure check and diesel flush this evening. *Salutes*

Could you please elaborate on the block pressure test?

Are there any other exhaust hoses besides the ones coming off the upper risors?

Thanks again, I might have to send a pizza your way.

 

[Don S]

Re: AQ225D oil presssure

Could you please elaborate on the block pressure test?
Are there any other exhaust hoses besides the ones coming off the upper risors?

What you want to do using the picture below for reference.
First drain the block and hoses of all water.
Disconnect both hoses (#40) that go from the tstat housing to the ex. manifolds. And plug them so you can pressurize the tstat housing.
Next disconnect the hose (#29) that goes to the raw water pump (#16) on the front of the crankshaft and again block off the port so the tstat housing can be pressurized.

Then all you have to do is hook up a pressure gauge to the block to pressurize to about 12 to 15 psi and see if it holds.
Where you hook the pump is up to you. Adapt a fitting to the hoses your removed, use a block drain, temp sender threaded hole, up to you.

 

[The Remedy II]

Re: AQ225D oil presssure

Alright, we've gathered supplies. In my possession are 5 liters diesel, 11 quarts of cheap oil, and 2 oil filters.

In this thread you helped me identied my heat exchanger.

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=487734

Is the process the same? I've identified hose (#29) and #(40) for blocking.

The engine has no oil in it. For this initial flush what do you recommend for first flush-cold start?

I'm leaning towards 3 1/2 L diesel and 2 L oil? Perhaps reverse the ratios?

 

[Don S]

Re: AQ225D oil presssure

Forget the block pressure test, you never said you had closed cooling.

 

[The Remedy II]

Re: AQ225D oil presssure

Alright, time to start flushing.

 

[Don S]

Re: AQ225D oil presssure

To test your cooling system (and the block), drain the cooling system and use a radiator tester attached to the heat exchanger and pressure test it.

 

[The Remedy II]

Re: AQ225D oil presssure

Temporarily stopped again. The oil filter has disinigrated.:facepalm: I tried strap wrenches, a useless chain strap wrench, channel locks, and ratchet filter removers. Then came the hammer and screwdriver. No luck, now the collar in the block is the only thing left. Do you have any advice or tricks for removing stuck oil collars?

My new plan is to either grind down a strap wrench real thin and invent a tool, or take the oil filter holder off the block. It?s held on by two (9/16) bolts. It looks like it can be removed. The book doesn?t even have that part in it. Are those cast to the block?

 

[Don S]

Re: AQ225D oil presssure

Are we talking about the block mounted filter?

 

[The Remedy II]

Re: AQ225D oil presssure

Yes sir