AQ125A No Spark From Coil

[thndrmech]

Hello all,
I have a 1984 Bayliner Capri with a Volvo AQ125A Motor, and a 270 Outdrive. I know this has been beaten to death, but I am just not grasping it. I had My boat out once since I have owned it, and it had stalling issues. I know it is not fuel related as I have gone through the Carb, and I know it is not engine timing as I have replaced the belt and timed it a thousand times. The trouble I am having is spark from the Coil. There is none. I know the points are new, and I know that the condensor was changed with the points. I removed the Tachometer to rule out shorting from there, and have tested the voltage to the coil from the purple wire going to the positive side. I get near battery power roughly 11.48v, and at the distributor 6.82v. Does anyone have a STEP BY STEP process to set this up? For the life of me, I cannot get spark from the coil. I was going to re run wire from the ignition to the coil, or just start re-wiring the whole dadgum boat, but if it is a simple fix, that would be a waste of time. I have the two manuals that are floating around the forums, but they aren't of any help. Does anyone have a detailed schematic of the wiring for this boat and engine????????

 

[Don S]

Re: AQ125A No Spark From Coil

Replace the points and condenser. The points are most likely cause and something people forget about because cars haven't used them for a few decades. They get corroded and glazed over and don't make contact electrically, thus no spark.

 

[Bondo]

Re: AQ125A No Spark From Coil

AQ125A No Spark From Coil



Hello all,
I have a 1984 Bayliner Capri with a Volvo AQ125A Motor, and a 270 Outdrive. I know this has been beaten to death, but I am just not grasping it. I had My boat out once since I have owned it, and it had stalling issues. I know it is not fuel related as I have gone through the Carb, and I know it is not engine timing as I have replaced the belt and timed it a thousand times. The trouble I am having is spark from the Coil. There is none. I know the points are new, and I know that the condensor was changed with the points. I removed the Tachometer to rule out shorting from there, and have tested the voltage to the coil from the purple wire going to the positive side. I get near battery power roughly 11.48v, and at the distributor 6.82v. Does anyone have a STEP BY STEP process to set this up? For the life of me, I cannot get spark from the coil. I was going to re run wire from the ignition to the coil, or just start re-wiring the whole dadgum boat, but if it is a simple fix, that would be a waste of time. I have the two manuals that are floating around the forums, but they aren't of any help. Does anyone have a detailed schematic of the wiring for this boat and engine????????

Ayuh,.... Welcome Aboard,... It's clearly explained in Here,...

When the points close, goin' to ground, the coil fires...

lotsa Good readin' in Here...

 

[Don S]

Re: AQ125A No Spark From Coil

thndrmech

I merged your two thread into one, please do not post the same question in multiple forums, it get really confusing.

 

[thndrmech]

Re: AQ125A No Spark From Coil

Sorry about the multiple posts guys. Don S. The points are new, but the condnser could be shot. I gapped the points, but havent been able to start it to set the dwell. can I do that with the engine not started? Also if i amunderstanding correctly, the points and condenser tell the coil when to fire?

 

[Don S]

Re: AQ125A No Spark From Coil

Did you set the gap on the high point of the distributor cam?

 

[thndrmech]

Re: AQ125A No Spark From Coil

When the cam opens the points? as in at the "corner" yes, not on the flat part when they shut. was that wrong? I am thinking that I either want to convert to electronic ignition (almost as much as i paid for the boat), or part out the engine and scrap the boat. I paid $400 for boat and trailer, and have sunk about $300 into it, and haven't gone into the transum restore yet.:facepalm:

 

[Maclin]

Re: AQ125A No Spark From Coil

The engine does not have to start to check dwell, just sayin' ...

 

[thndrmech]

Re: AQ125A No Spark From Coil

The engine does not have to start to check dwell, just sayin' ...

Hence the reason i asked for a step by step. :laugh:

 

[bruceb58]

Re: AQ125A No Spark From Coil

When the points close, goin' to ground, the coil fires...

Actually, when the points open is when the coil fires.

 

[Bondo]

Re: AQ125A No Spark From Coil

Actually, when the points open is when the coil fires.

Ayuh,... Sorry, not the 1st time in my life I've had things azz-end too...

 

[Don S]

Re: AQ125A No Spark From Coil

To set the points with a dwell meter, remove the cap and rotor, hook up the dwell meter per the meters instructions. Make sure the meter is set to 4 cylinder or you know where to read the 4 cylinder scale.
Crank the engine with a remote start button and adjust the point gap open or closed to get the desired dwell reading. Tighten down the points and verify the dwell setting. Remember the number.
Now put the cap and rotor back on and start the engine. Again recheck the dwell since it probably won't be the same. Almost all dwell meters are off at cranking from running readings, you need to find out what your readings are with the engine running in order to readjust the dwell on your engine.
If your dwell was (as an example) 62? when cranking and you now read 59? you will need to go back to your cranking settings and reset your dwell to 65? (add that lost 3? to what you want) then you will come up with the 62? you want when you run the engine.
Mark on your meter to add or subtract the number of degrees for your meter when cranking so you remember it next time.

 

[thndrmech]

Re: AQ125A No Spark From Coil

Did find out one thing. The coil i got only has 1.5ohm resistance not 3 like I am supposed to have. thinking I may have fried the condenser. but that doesn't explain why I am only getting 6v to the condenser with ignition on. going to have to dig deeper.n Would like to thank all for the good advice though. any suggestions on an electronic ignition???

 

[thndrmech]

Re: AQ125A No Spark From Coil

OK, Need a little more advice. I am only getting 6V to the purple wire that goes to the condecsor on my distributor, and I am getting Continuity between the purple wire that goes to the condensor and the Grey wire that goes to the - on my coil. Question is, am I supposed to have more voltage to the wire going to the condensor, and are the two wires supposed to have continuity???

 

[Mullin]

Re: AQ125A No Spark From Coil

Check your voltage at the battery to make sure the battery hasn't drained during winter. Also check cables for corrosion.

If the coil is not internally resisted then there may be a resistor wire installed in-line on the way to the coil. It's not supposed to drop it below 9v though.

Some good info here: http://www.hot-spark.com/Installing-Hot-Spark-Volvo-Penta.pdf
Product page: Hot-Spark Performance Products: Electronic Ignition Conversion Kits, Distributors, Ignition Coils for VW, Volkswagen, Porsche, Audi, BMW, Volvo-Penta, Mercedes, Opel, Saab, Bosch

 

[thndrmech]

Re: AQ125A No Spark From Coil

Thanks Mullin,
Battery is a bit Low, i'll charge it. And check into the Hot Spark. $54 doesn't seem to bad, but maybe will do some research and find it cheaper. Also, Thanks Bond-o for the link to Don S's. break down dummy style explanation for the coil and points. And finally, Thanks Don S. for breaking it down dummy style enough for me to understand it. Now to go out and put into practice. Hopefully this weekend. Now, Final Question (well maybe not final). When setting it TDC am I setting the Engine AT TDC when I put the new Belt on, or 10 Degrees BEFORE TDC. The manuel is very unclear. The last time I got it started, it was 10 Degrees BEFORE, but that is when the distributor was all screwed up and the Springs went haywire and snapped inside ruining my older distributor.

 

[Mullin]

Re: AQ125A No Spark From Coil

No problem

If that battery is low and there is a resistor wire, that might knock it down to 6v at the coil. Just check it again after charging.

I really like the hot spark kit I installed. I know you are supposed to be able to get equally great performance from a points kit if setup right, but setting up points is a pain (to me anyway). It doesn't have the window in the cap to make adjustments like some others do and I never got it perfect. Between the ignition kit and finally figuring out the carb, it's ran awesome ever since.

When you put the belt on it is at 0? BTDC. That's with the cam, crank, and dist pulley, all pointing at their timing notches and the dist rotor pointing directly at #1. You then adjust the distributor with the aid of a timing light to get to 10? BTDC at 750rpm and 36? BTDC at 4200rpm. You might have to advance it blind just to get it started and then adjust.

From the book:

USA:
Ignition timing, regular gasoline (RON+MON)/2 = min 87 octane
Basic setting ......................................................................... 10? BTDC 0–12.5 r/s
(0–750 r/m) (0–750 r/m,
Stroboscopic setting ............................................................. 36 BTD 70 r/s
(4200 r/m) (4200 r/m)
Gap ................................................................................... 0.40 mm (0.016 in.)
Cam angle ............................................................................ 62??3?

Manual: Volvo AQ125,145 a,B Service Manual

 

[bruceb58]

Re: AQ125A No Spark From Coil

What voltage are you measuring at the coil with the points open and points closed? Points open will be full battery voltage and point closed will have a drop across the ballast wire/resistor.

As a test, you can just jumper across the ballast from the battery directly to the positive side of the coil. You don't want to do that for long but to get it started is fine.

You should be able to get darn close with the timing by just cranking the engine and using your timing light, even if it doesn't start. Same applys to setting the dwell with a dwell meter. Setting the dwell with a dwell meter should be done rather than relying on gap.

 

[thndrmech]

Re: AQ125A No Spark From Coil

:blue:Appreciate the advice guys, but just made a disturbing discovery. I re timed the Engine, Set the distributor and points, tested the coil, and hooked everything back up. I left the heat exchanger off in the event I was 180* out (I wasn't) and went to crank it over. Well, I STILL had no Spark From the coil. Then I went to re align the engine to TDC, thinking I may have to Reset the distributor, and points Blah, Blah Blah. When I aligned the main bearing with its mark, I noticed the valve cam marker was a few teeth off. SO, I cranked it a few more times with the Remote starter, and noticed the timing belt was jumping right after the Main bearing before the idler pully. Every rotation threw it off at least 2-3 teeth. I am thinking this may end up as a total tear down and rebuild:facepalm:. Any suggestions?

 

[Mullin]

Re: AQ125A No Spark From Coil

It's not an interference motor, so no real harm done. Need to figure out why its jumping though.

My idler/tensioner pulley was shot and the spring a little week. I used an automotive Volvo b20 timing belt and tensioner kit for pretty cheap. And just assisted the tension spring maually . You might look at the teeth of the pulleys to make sure they're in good condition too.