Anyone use stainless steel toggles for pedestal seats?

sutor623

Rear Admiral
Joined
May 23, 2011
Messages
4,089
Has anyone used the garelick SS toggles to hold their pedestal bases down? I am taking out a back to back and installing a captains chair. I brought this up a few weeks ago but didn't hear much about toggles. Back to back came right out, was just screwed into the floor in 6 places. I can see under the deck on the drivers seat and it is nut bolted and washered through the deck, plain and simple. It still feels solid after 20 years.



Or I could cut a hole out with a hole saw into this stringer to give me access under the deck and do nuts bolts and washers instead. Then epoxy and glass the cutout back into the stringer. Probably not the best idea............

 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,932
Or you could do this, which would be my recommendation. That way you could use T-Nuts on this base and then glass it to your deck. This would ensure good stability and strength.
 

sutor623

Rear Admiral
Joined
May 23, 2011
Messages
4,089
Thanks for the reply wood. When we were talking about this last month you were repping the same protocol. My only three issues with this is 1. It won't match the other side, 2. The paint won't match the rest of the boat, and lastly it will be very time consuming. IMAP about doing a good job but if I can add a nice thick backer plate under the deck wouldn't that be solid enough? If I cut a hole big enough to get my hand through the stringer to work under the seat base and then re-epoxy and glass the stringer would that be a solid option?

Am I asking for failure to just use these toggles for what they are designed to do?
 

sutor623

Rear Admiral
Joined
May 23, 2011
Messages
4,089
Oh the other thing is that there is this grid pattern in the floor to add texture, and I am pretty sure that I can't match that pattern. Ulgggh, just want to do this right, but also want to know my limitations. I have 2 friends that are 220-275 lbs. and I don't want to be rude and tell them to "sit easy" hahahaha.
 

Mikeopsycho

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Feb 6, 2014
Messages
738
I wouldn't use the toggles. If I remember correctly, you need a half inch hole to insert the toggle for a quarter inch bolt, so the bolt ends up with a lot of open space around it. On the other hand, if you could fill this open space with something like epoxy.......hmmmmmm. :noidea:
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,932
I suppose you could reverse the process and cut an access slot in the stringer to slide a 3/4" plywood plate under the deck and use PB and Screws to hold it in place. It wouldn't weaken the Stringer significantly to do that. Mike is correct about the hole size for the toggles but they do work well and filling the holes isn't that much of an issue. With 1 1/2" of Plywood you should have more than enuf strength for your "Big Boy" friends. I'd Recommend a 18" x 18" plate and I'd make sure and get plenty of PB on it and pre-drill the holes and coat the screws with PB too!!! If you do the install correctly it should stand the test of time and the abuse of your passengers!!!;)
 

sutor623

Rear Admiral
Joined
May 23, 2011
Messages
4,089
Thanks a bunch for being flexible with me. I know that you really know your stuff about fiberglass and wood repair, and I sure hate it when people try and shortcut my advise.

That being said, when you refer to PB what exactly are you referring to? PB blaster, Lead, Peanut Butter?? :laugh:
 

sutor623

Rear Admiral
Joined
May 23, 2011
Messages
4,089
Got it, thanks. Where can I get a thickening agent for fiberglass resin? Also, not sure where I can get strands to put into the resin. The local lowes only has sheets. Maybe an autoparts store?
 

sutor623

Rear Admiral
Joined
May 23, 2011
Messages
4,089
Sweet, thanks Wood. They sure do have it at advanced auto parts.

Do you think SS Tee nuts will hold well? I was thinking I could Tee nut the board of wood, slip it in place, attack it to the deck and then mount the seat base. That would prevent me from drilling 1/2" holes in the deck, prevent me from having to nut and bolt , and once the wood is down I could just screw the pedestal down and be done with it. If that doesnt sound good then I could get washers and stop nuts if I have enough access to the underneath.
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,932
Yeah, they hold really well. Just not sure how you're gunna be able to drill your holes and get everything all lined up but I suppose it could be done.
 

sutor623

Rear Admiral
Joined
May 23, 2011
Messages
4,089
Yeah, they hold really well. Just not sure how you're gunna be able to drill your holes and get everything all lined up but I suppose it could be done.


Ok, thanks partner. I will get to working on this this weekend and share some photos of the journey. I think I can get those Tee nuts centered into each of those holes if I use the pedestal as a template to set the Tee's before I even slide the ply under the deck.
 

sutor623

Rear Admiral
Joined
May 23, 2011
Messages
4,089
Pulled the fuel hatch again. That side is filled with flotation foam so I am not sure how worth it it is to try and get under there. You can see under the drivers pedestal, and the dealer used small washers with nuts. Looks like it would be even less stable than those togglers would be. Man what the heck were they thinking??
 
Top