Anyone sells a closed cooling kit for a V8 petrol MPI? Preferably Volvo Penta

bollerwagon

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I´m looking for (idealls) full set of closed cooling system for my 5.7 GXi, anyone has that laying around? I mean it´s better selling it than havint it blocking your garage...
 

Scott Danforth

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you can buy heat exchangers directly from Sen-Dure, Champ, R&D, Mota, and many more. however not many offer a complete kit to the aftermarket like Orca (formerly San Juan)
 

bollerwagon

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I thnk I am too clueless to find the correct piping, so I was looking for a full set, mo problem it it is used as long as the parts can be reused.
 

Scott Danforth

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I thnk I am too clueless to find the correct piping, so I was looking for a full set, mo problem it it is used as long as the parts can be reused.
it takes a bit to find hoses that will fit. the Gates molded hose catalog has pictures and dimensions.

Volvo Penta does sell many motors with a half system. Never looked if they sell the complete kit as an aftermarket

however unless your motor is brand new, you cant just slap on a heat exchanger. if the motor was run in salt water at all, its already too late. just run it until you need to repower.

if the motor was a fresh water only motor, you can pull the motor and clean the rocks and gravel out of the water passages and put a HX on it.

How many hours on the motor and what is the history?
 

bollerwagon

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Volvo Penta does sell many motors with a half system. Never looked if they sell the complete kit as an aftermarket
sorry, this is a misunderstanding. I mean the full kit (all the parts) for a half system (just the engine fresh water cooled).

I don´t know the blocks age, bought it as a broken engine. But it is currently cleaned, they remove the freeze plugs and do some ultrasonic magic. Workshop is confident, that it will be clean afterwards. So I hope there isn´t much debris left.
 

Scott Danforth

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being in the middle of a repower with the block getting done, should be OK, especially if they pulled the core plugs

regarding kits with brackets, plumbing, etc. Orca and SeaKamp are the two aftermarket companies that offer that.

Champ used to offer kits in the early 90's, however didnt advertise. plus they have the OEM business for Mercruiser and Volvo

for the boat in my sig, I custom made brackets, got a HX from Champ and did the plumbing myself (I used to work at Champ and Cummins)
 

bollerwagon

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I think I begin to understand how a closed cooling works now. For the old engines you basically just need a HX with 5 openings. - - Raw water in
- 2 x Raw water out to the exhaust
- Fresh water in
- Fresh water out
With this setup you can youse a simple automotive water neck and thermostat housing.

But the MPI has a more complex thermostat housing design, not so sure yet why. Also we need to connect the water cooled fuel pumps.
 

Scott Danforth

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I think I begin to understand how a closed cooling works now. For the old engines you basically just need a HX with 5 openings. - - Raw water in
- 2 x Raw water out to the exhaust
- Fresh water in
- Fresh water out
With this setup you can youse a simple automotive water neck and thermostat housing.

But the MPI has a more complex thermostat housing design, not so sure yet why. Also we need to connect the water cooled fuel pumps.
it doesnt need to be more complex than what you outlined in the beginning.

a raw water cooled thermostat housing has much more connections because it has to keep constant flow to the manifolds while it mixes hot and cold water. the HX and the stock thermostat housing have the same number of connections

one to the motor
one to the circulating pump
on to the water supply
two or 4 to the exhaust
 

bollerwagon

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so i could even use my standard thermostat housing and block the ledtover connections?
 

Scott Danforth

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so i could even use my standard thermostat housing and block the ledtover connections?
No, your current thermostat housing is a mix valve housing (mixes incoming water with the hot water to maintain block temp while keeping constant flow to the exhaust

if you want to run a HX, you need a new dedicated glycol side housing and a the exhaust feed is from the HX
 

bollerwagon

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still trying to understand the mechanics: in the raw water cooled engine I have the impeller pump, that pushes water into the engine and also the pump that circulates the water in the engine, pushing it through the collectors in the exhaust.

In the freshwater cooled engine, the circulation pump only moves the water around in the engine, while the impeller pump has to do the jop alone of pushing the water throught he HX and the exhaust.

Does that work if impeller pump and hose diameter are the same?
 

tpenfield

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still trying to understand the mechanics: in the raw water cooled engine I have the impeller pump, that pushes water into the engine and also the pump that circulates the water in the engine, pushing it through the collectors in the exhaust.

In the freshwater cooled engine, the circulation pump only moves the water around in the engine, while the impeller pump has to do the jop alone of pushing the water throught he HX and the exhaust.

Does that work if impeller pump and hose diameter are the same?

Well almost . . . All the circulating pump does in either case is circulate the water (or coolant) through the engine block.

The seawater pump moves the water into the engine and an equal amount of water gets pushed out of the engine because of it . . . the sea water pump doing all of that work.
 

Scott Danforth

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still trying to understand the mechanics: in the raw water cooled engine I have the impeller pump, that pushes water into the engine and also the pump that circulates the water in the engine, pushing it through the collectors in the exhaust.

In the freshwater cooled engine, the circulation pump only moves the water around in the engine, while the impeller pump has to do the jop alone of pushing the water throught he HX and the exhaust.

Does that work if impeller pump and hose diameter are the same?
here is your volvo penta 271C setup (regardless if you are running the stock carb or EFI)

water comes in from the drive intake, up thru the H-frame swivel shaft to the leak-prone casting to the hose that goes to the transom shield. From there, the water goes thru the power steering cooler, thru the optional oil cooler to the raw water pump. From the raw water pump, water is pushed into the thermostat housing where it feeds the engine and the exhaust. the thermostat opens and closes as needed to mix internal warm water with the incoming cool water. the circulating pump is circulating water from the block up thru the heads to the intake and back. if the thermostat is open, some of that hot water is pushed out to the lines and goes thru the exhaust manifolds/elbows and out. if the thermostat is closed, that water goes back thru the block and heads.

from the thermostat housing, there are two lines that run to the exhaust, one on port, one on starboard. where they enter the manifold, circulate around the cooling water jacket of the manifold and get pushed up thru the elbows where gravity and exhaust flow takes it out the Y-pipe and thru the drive

the same engine with a heat exchanger
water comes in from the drive intake, up thru the H-frame swivel shaft to the leak-prone casting to the hose that goes to the transom shield. From there, the water goes thru the power steering cooler, thru the optional oil cooler to the raw water pump. From the raw water pump, water is pushed into the Heat Exchanger raw water side where it goes thru the heat exchanger 4-6 times back and forth, then out the ports where it feeds the the exhaust exhaust manifold. the thermostat opens and closes as needed to move internal warm glycol from the block thru the heat exchanger or back thru the block. the circulating pump is circulating glycol from the block up thru the heads to the intake thru a simple thermostat cover and into the HX or thru the small bypass hose back to the block. if the thermostat is open, some of that hot glycol is pushed to the HX where it is cooled and returned if the thermostat is closed, that water goes back thru the block and heads via the bypass line between the thermostat cross-over on the manifold and the circulating pump.

think of a HX cooled motor like the motor in your car. equate the radiator with the HX. and the incoming air as the seawater

in your car, the air goes thru the radiator and then flows over your exhaust to cool it where it is then disbursed back to the air from under your car. the engine circulating pump circulates the glycol as needed between the engine and the radiator

in a raw water cooled engine, remember, the thermostat is not operating as a blocking valve, however its operating as a mixing valve to mix hot and cold water on the discharge.

in a heat exchanged engine, the thermostat operates as a blocking valve.

your motor came with a Johnson F5B raw water pump. if you need more flow, the F6B is a direct drop-in

also, if you have not inspected the leak-prone white-metal raw water fitting on top of the drive swivel under the transmission input, I suggest you do. those things only last 5 years in fresh water and about 2 years in salt before the corrode to the point of leaking. the current plastic ones will work, however they last about 5 years and crack.

i suggest with or without the heat exchanger, install a water pressure gauge. I plumbed mine after the raw water pump
 

bollerwagon

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Wow, this is a profound elaboration. Thanks.

The bypass on the HX cooled engine was new to me and what confused me. I assume it is part 17 in the attached picture? On the GXi-FF I have this setup.
I have purchased a used but original HX for this engine, should I look out for the original thermostast housing or can I use a generic one?

On the AQ271 there is just a simple water neck directly to the HX, no bypass.
 

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Scott Danforth

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ALL GM V8's run a bypass. its just a hose and two fittings, on some engines its just a hose

you can use a generic thermostat housing, however you need to have the expansion tank as the highest point to burb the water. the stock VP setup you have a picture of has a raised thermostat housing and a vent line (item #5) to make sure there is full de-areation

when I put a HX on my original AQ271, it was a buick t-stat I had laying in the shop. I simply cut-off the bypass tube because its in a different location on a Chev V8

when I built the BBC, I used a 90 degree generic polished aluminum one from summit racing. the hoses came from the local part store and amazon

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