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Fleet Admiral
- Joined
- May 26, 2009
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Re: Any tips for electric winches vs hand crank? PROJECT COMPLETE WITH PICS
obviously the theoretical voltage drop isn't a problem so I wouldn't worry about it. Keep the wire intact. In fact, a bad splice would cause voltage issues, too, and it's all weatherproof as is.
Keep the whole rig; You may decide to hard-wire it in, or need to hook up to another battery if your boxed battery goes soft. Either keep 2 clamps handy, or use the ones on your jumper cables (the ones you always carry in the truck, or the ones you always carry in the boat!)
I think I'd put a small padlock on the battery box--just enough to keep an honest man honest while parked at the ramp.
I assume it has the brass fuses. I also assume you've tested it, it runs, and your ground set up is OK? You'er going direct to the ground post?
Obviously I can't speak precisely to your trailer set up and retrieve, but typically, with a power winch, you avoid going in too deep; the boat usually straightens itself as it comes up. If you can, have your helper on the pier with the boat hook and a line on the stern cleat, so he can adjust the stern left/right as it comes up. I pull the bow line from the bow cleat tight to the winch post to hold the boat firmly in place at the trailer's first roller, tie it off with a clove hitch on the post, then start cranking, pulling (by hand) against the winch so the slack winds on smoothly. You usually have to tighten the clutch wheel down right hard. Never untie the bow line until the safety chain is on.
As I said before, some people loosen the clutch for the ride home so the bouncing won't work against it. But then the boat isn't tight against the stop, since the chain isn't tight. I wouldn't try loosening at first. You have a right heavy boat there.
check back Monday
obviously the theoretical voltage drop isn't a problem so I wouldn't worry about it. Keep the wire intact. In fact, a bad splice would cause voltage issues, too, and it's all weatherproof as is.
Keep the whole rig; You may decide to hard-wire it in, or need to hook up to another battery if your boxed battery goes soft. Either keep 2 clamps handy, or use the ones on your jumper cables (the ones you always carry in the truck, or the ones you always carry in the boat!)
I think I'd put a small padlock on the battery box--just enough to keep an honest man honest while parked at the ramp.
I assume it has the brass fuses. I also assume you've tested it, it runs, and your ground set up is OK? You'er going direct to the ground post?
Obviously I can't speak precisely to your trailer set up and retrieve, but typically, with a power winch, you avoid going in too deep; the boat usually straightens itself as it comes up. If you can, have your helper on the pier with the boat hook and a line on the stern cleat, so he can adjust the stern left/right as it comes up. I pull the bow line from the bow cleat tight to the winch post to hold the boat firmly in place at the trailer's first roller, tie it off with a clove hitch on the post, then start cranking, pulling (by hand) against the winch so the slack winds on smoothly. You usually have to tighten the clutch wheel down right hard. Never untie the bow line until the safety chain is on.
As I said before, some people loosen the clutch for the ride home so the bouncing won't work against it. But then the boat isn't tight against the stop, since the chain isn't tight. I wouldn't try loosening at first. You have a right heavy boat there.
check back Monday