Anti-Rattle solutions

briangcc

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Curious if anyone has used either an anti-rattle locking hitch pin OR the U-bolts they tout for taking up the slack in the drawbar to hitch connection? If so, any experience/preference?

Problem is the drawbar is loose in the Durango hitch and you do hear it on bumps. The factory hitch isn't drilled for a j-bolt pin and there's not enough clearance to drill the hitch myself without tearing apart the back bumper. I don't think the hitch is deep enough for this anyways as the coupler is very shallow. So its either the U-bolt or an anti-rattle hitch pin.

Figure I get this tamed and I can get the admiral comfortable towing the boat as down the road she has plans for a travel trailer which I'd be towing with the Ram on family vacation trips.

**The Durango is factory rated for 6200 lbs with the towing package so I'm no where near maxing out the vehicle when towing our current boat.
 

JimS123

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I bought a HitchRider HitchVice and it worked so awesomely well that I bought a second one for my other car. Absolutely NO rattle anytime.
 

airshot

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I have used the U bolt anti rattle device from Harbor Freight with great sucess. Quite simple device but it works!! Have also made my own changes to my drawbar to take up the sloppy fit. I have used " goop" to glue on a washer to take up the play and on one unit I added large head machine screws which were adjustable to takevupvthe play. Being a toolmaker and working in a machine shop did help with the last idea !!
 

bruceb58

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I just put a couple spot welds on the top of the hitch and sand/file them down until it fits snug in the receiver.
 

Grub54891

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I'm thinking of drilling a hole in the bottom of the hitch receiver, weld a nut to it put in a bolt and snugging it up to take up slack. It may work or not. Nothing lost nothing gained.
 

briangcc

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Thanks for the replies.

This is what I have now and the lock cylinder is in the way when I tow with the Ram...


Probably going with one of these (I checked Iboats and I don't see it or a comparable listed)


It'll hopefully fix the rattle and also the issue of the lock mechanism being in the way when towing with the Ram - 2 birds, one stone sort of thing. I'll follow up once I get one in for testing.
 

airshot

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I'm thinking of drilling a hole in the bottom of the hitch receiver, weld a nut to it put in a bolt and snugging it up to take up slack. It may work or not. Nothing lost nothing gained.
Yes, it will work, have done it before, but use a large bolt like 5/8" or bigger and flatten the end where it makes contact. Use a long enough bolt to allow an extra nut as a jam nut so it doesnt back out! If a small bolt is used it can dig in and leave a burr making the bar difficult to remove!
 

Scott Danforth

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must be a durango thing

my durango rattled with every brand of draw bar.

I tried plastic window shims pounded in with a 5# fist maul and wrapping the draw bar with electrical tape. each would work for about an hour

ultimately, I welded some 16 gauge stainless sheetmetal into the receiver to take up the excess slack
 

briangcc

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I'm pretty sure it has more to do with the cheap HarborFreight drawbar than anything else šŸ¤£

All my drawbars have rattled to some extent, some more than others. Just don't notice them as much with a full frame vehicle - our previous 4Runner or any of my trucks. With the unibody, like the Durango, it's very noticeable. **Had same experience with different drawbar in the admiral's 2016 GMC Acadia SLE-2.
 

Bondo

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Ayuh,..... When it comes to draw-bars,.....

I keep mine Heavily greased, with a plain ole draw-bar pin in it,.....
I see a twofold benefit, I've never had one stolen, as folks don't like to get greasy, 'n when I wanta change it,.....
I Can change it,.....
Rusted Solid is pretty common up here in the rust belt,...

Never noticed any rattlin' from it,....
If I did, I'd close the window, 'n crank the tunes up louder,.....
 

Scott Danforth

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Ayuh,..... When it comes to draw-bars,.....

I keep mine Heavily greased, with a plain ole draw-bar pin in it,.....
I see a twofold benefit, I've never had one stolen, as folks don't like to get greasy, 'n when I wanta change it,.....
I Can change it,.....
Rusted Solid is pretty common up here in the rust belt,...

Never noticed any rattlin' from it,....
If I did, I'd close the window, 'n crank the tunes up louder,.....
except the rattling in a durango is louder than the radio would go for what ever freak of science made the durango.
 

briangcc

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This is what we're talking about with hitch/drawbar rattle...


Pretty sure it's the combination of the SUV being unibody with an open 3rd row basically acts as an amplifier/speaker combo for all that inside. It may also be related to the rear tray/box under the floor behind the 3rd row as that IS unique to the Durango.

It's loud and very noticeable....to the point where you think something fell off the vehicle.
 

airshot

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The only issue for me is...I remove my draw bar after every outing, to much of a pain to go thru that each time I use my trailer. I prefer making the required adjustments to my hitch to stop the rattles....to each his own, but once I have mine fixed, just pull the pin or install the pin and go.
 

briangcc

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I fail to see the difference. Once the insert is in your drawbar, you leave it there. Only thing you need to do is tighten the pin - maybe 5 additional seconds of work as compared to a traditional pin/lock?

No mods to the vehicle either.
 

alldodge

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The vid
Like the idea, but guy mentions about a weight distribution hitch using a class III hitch, that ain't right. I use nothing but class 4 or 5 hitches even for light stuff

For someone that has more then one C3 hitch, swapping will take more time, and doubt the spring and piece would stay in the hitch. Even the guy was gentle installing
 

JimS123

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The drawbar sticking out the back is a pita. I remove it after each outing. Besides, it all rusts in the Winter.

I don't have time to drill holes, weld nubs and such. That's also a pita.

The anti rattle kits are fine. I keep a small wrench in the trunk and the kit installs in less than 10 seconds. Never a rattle after that.

Not rocket science. Alls you have to do is spend a few bucks.
 

briangcc

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Here's the specs from the manufacturer...


Says up to 12000 lbs, class IV rated.

Received it last night. The spring has plenty of tension to keep the assembly in the hitch drawbar - I don't see it coming out unless the spring fails. Took all of 30 seconds to get the insert installed into the drawbar. Maybe another 30 seconds to install the hitch pin,tighten it down, and install the lock on the other side. It's minimal difference between this and a regular locking 5/8 pin. Removal is also very straightforward. IF you're concerned, keep a ratcheting wrench with your towing kit - Harbor Freight has these cheap.

Quick test showed it's working as advertised.

I'll report back again once I tow with it but for right now I'm very satisfied with this option.
 
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