Another Winterization Question

[nightvision]

Hi All,<br /><br />I have a 2005 Sea Ray 180 sport. This is the first year I own a boat. We live in CA and I keep the boat in the garage (no freezing issues). During the winter I like to take the boat out for some unplanned fishing or cruising trips when the sun is out. The longest time the boat will sit in the garage will be about 4 weeks or 6 weeks at most between use in the winter. A couple winterization questions:<br /><br />a. Currently, I keep a full tank of gas. When I take the boat out every 4 or 6 weeks I use up only about one to three gallons of gas. In this situation, should I use a fuel stabilizer (Sta-Bil)?<br /><br />b. During the 4-6 weeks that the boat is sitting in the garage I trim down to save the bellows and unplug the battery (trickle charge it as neccessary). During the sitting period, do I need to take it out and put it on ear muffs to run the engine. How often should I do this?<br /><br />c. Is there any other recommended winterization protocol I need take. Still a newbie and trying to learn as much as posible.<br /><br />Thanks.

 

[WillyBWright]

Re: Another Winterization Question

Since you don't use much gas, always use Stabil in it. But regarding your other concerns, don't worry. The main reason to drain the block is to prevent freeze damage. It's not hard to do on your motor if you have the 3L. There should be a couple of blue drain hoses on the port side of the motor. Disconnect those and let them drain if freezing becomes a possibility. Otherwise it's better to keep the water in there rather than drain it. It'll still rust, but it'll rust faster if it's esposed to air instead of water. If you use it in saltwater, then definately flush it with fresh water after each use before letting it sit around.

 

[crazy charlie]

Re: Another Winterization Question

If possible,I would suggest starting and running the rig on muffs every 2 weeks for the non use period.This will eliminate the need to fog for the non use period.I also would not bother to disconnect the battery.4-6 weeks is acceptable for a fully charged battery to sit without any draw on it.Dont forget to change the fuel/water seperator.Charlie

 

[craze1cars]

Re: Another Winterization Question

There's a big difference between "winterization" and "scheduled maintenance." A lot of people and marinas blend them, but don't get them confused.<br /><br />Winterization in most of the world is 2-fold. 1. Protecting your engine block and drive train from freezing and cracking due to freezing water that IS in the block and MIGHT be in your drive, and 2. Preparing the fuel system and engine for long term storage.<br /><br />From a winterization standpoint, if I were in your shoes I'd ignore the fuel system and long-term storage prep. 4 to 6 weeks of sitting isn't long enough to cause a problem. But if temps have ANY remote risk of dropping below freezing during that timeframe, you'll want the block drained of water, and this would be the best time to do your annual gear-lube change to purge any water that might be in there. Then do your usual battery disconnect/drive drop, park it, and be done.<br /><br />As for all other routine maintenance, forget about winter...your hourmeter is your guide. Follow your manufacturer's recommendations on oil changes intervals, fuel filters, water separators, cleaning flame arrestor, plugs/tune-up stuff, engine alignment, pull the drive to lube splines and u-joints, gimbal bearing inspection, etc. This assumes you have an I/O. Outboards obviously don't need some of that.<br /><br />Winter is just a convenient time for all of us in the freezing part of the world to do all that stuff. So most of us do it annually and roll it in with the "winterization." Maybe you want to do the same during this 4 to 6 week period, or maybe you can just consider your boat a year-round runner and do all your maintenance stuff no different than you treat your car...by time and mileage (or hours for a boat) instead of time of year.<br /><br />Good luck!