Another Bravo 3 shift issue

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pursuit2460

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New to me 2000 Pursuit 2460 w/Mercruiser 5.7 TBI Bravo 3. Had hard shift since I bought it 2 months ago. I removed lower unit and upper unit so I could replace all the seals since I didn't know the last time it was done. Ordered all the o-rings, new shift cable & bellow, anodes and Mercury Gear oil. All Mercury parts. Did all the work and reinstalled outdrive. Also checked the detent ball and shift lever, perfect, no issue. So now the shifting got like 50% better. Before when shifting into F or R it really dragged, almost felt like a really bad rusted cable. Old cable did have out shell cut but it still moved kinda freely. Also when shifting into R, with the amount of force it took to make it engage, when it did engage, since you had force on it, it gave throttle making the boat jump backwards. So like I said, now it feels like 50% better but it's still hard. I replaced the shift cable from the throttle control to the shift bracket and checked it with out the outdrive shift cable connected. It moves smoothly. Wish it was like that with the outdrive cable connected. My old shift cable had the barrel pinned and used that same piece on the new cable. This way its already adjusted. Checked cable and its smooth as can be when not connect to outdrive. So what ideas can you give me. I have poured through lots of threads but all are asking before shift cable replacement. I also thought it would have been my detent ball, but it was like new and moved freely. By the way, I have never owned a I/O so I don't know how they are supposed to shift. I always had outboards and they shifted with minimal effort.
 

pursuit2460

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Did you adjust the new cable after install?
The one coming from the throttle, no. Tomorrow, but I don't see that making that big of a difference. The new cable going to the outdrive, no, didn't have to. I used the old barrel piece from the old cable. It was pinned from the factory so no adjustment is need on the one. I was also told the the shift fork can wear a groove on the cone clutch and could be the issue. Don't know anything about that and haven't read anything mention in all the threads I have read.
 

alldodge

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Disconnect the lower shift cable from bracket. Start motor and at idle you should be able to move the cable F/N/R by hand with ease. If it moves easy then its in the bracket, cable or control. If it doesn't move easy then its in the drive
 

tpenfield

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Bravo outdrives have a cone clutch. Once you have exhausted all the shift cable and linkage possibilities, take a look at the cone clutch to see if it has a glazed surface.

The prescribed fix is a new gearset in many cases, if the clutch is the older version (not sure if the new gearsets were introduced in 2000).

There is a poor man's fix, which involves roughing up the surfaces of the clutch slightly.
 

pursuit2460

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Disconnect the lower shift cable from bracket. Start motor and at idle you should be able to move the cable F/N/R by hand with ease. If it moves easy then its in the bracket, cable or control. If it doesn't move easy then its in the drive
Done and done. Both cables are new.
 

pursuit2460

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Bravo outdrives have a cone clutch. Once you have exhausted all the shift cable and linkage possibilities, take a look at the cone clutch to see if it has a glazed surface.

The prescribed fix is a new gearset in many cases, if the clutch is the older version (not sure if the new gearsets were introduced in 2000).

There is a poor man's fix, which involves roughing up the surfaces of the clutch slightly.
I couldn’t sleep yesterday to I kept searching and reading. I came across a poor man’s fix for clutch not engaging, which was roughing up the clutch surface with 80 sandpaper. Then I also came across the new gear set that came out in 05 I believe, mines is OL which is actually older than the boat which is a 2000 according to what I have read. But damn, Mercury wants like $2,300-2,500 for that gear set. Wow, I about $h!t myself. That’s the price of a lower unit for an outboard and way less material is used.
 

pursuit2460

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Just noticed. Don’t be confused with the replies from this user name. I forgot I had it and opened a new account. So Pursuit2460 is me also.
 

dubs283

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The new cable going to the outdrive, no, didn't have to. I used the old barrel piece from the old cable. It was pinned from the factory so no adjustment is need on the one.
Yeah, that's not checking the adjustment. You're assuming that 1. The old cable was adjusted properly and 2. The old cable didn't have wear.

You should verify the shift adjustment prior to guessing your next move, it's part of proper troubleshooting.

Most likely yes, there is an issue in the drive that has been caused by a worn shift cable, lack of drive maintenance, etc. Like others say an inspection of the shift/clutch linkage and cone is in order but verify first the adjustment of the cables you've just replaced
 

pursuit2460

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Understand, but can it be shifted "by hand" with motor running and the cable being moved in and out with just your fingers?
Did it. It shifts but I have to grab it with my whole hand and apply some force. Impossible with just my fingers.
 

pursuit2460

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Yeah, that's not checking the adjustment. You're assuming that 1. The old cable was adjusted properly and 2. The old cable didn't have wear.

You should verify the shift adjustment prior to guessing your next move, it's part of proper troubleshooting.

Most likely yes, there is an issue in the drive that has been caused by a worn shift cable, lack of drive maintenance, etc. Like others say an inspection of the shift/clutch linkage and cone is in order but verify first the adjustment of the cables you've just replaced
Mercury makes a cable that comes pined already. You can’t adjust it. I took the section of my old cable that has the pinned barrel. Regardless, I decided to start from scratch. Used the adjustable barrel that came with the new wire. Regardless it adjusted to the same place of the old wire. I adjusted the wire coming from the throttle per Mercury instructions with the measurement tool. It’s a tab bit better but still have to apply some force. I guess this is as good as it’s going to get without getting into the top gears and cone clutch.
 

pursuit2460

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ok, its in the drive
Kinda figured after new cables and everything is adjusted per Mercury instructions. Well it will have to stay that way for a while. Not going to disassemble it now after all the new seals. And if it does turn out to be the gear/cone set then oh boy. Will have to think about that before spending $2,300 on it. Thanks for the help. To you and everyone else that helped out.
 

pursuit2460

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I read through that whole thread before, thanks. But I still need to remove the outdrive and I just replace all the seal behind it. It’s actually way better than before so for now it’s staying that way for this season or year since in Miami boating is always in season. That thing is heavy and now that I know it’s not cables and the thought of having to pull it out again, well it will have to wait.
 

Grub54891

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Replace every cable on one around 5 years ago. The owner insisted they were all bad as it shifted hard, dual drives. Wouldn't let us check out the controls. After doing what he wanted it was back. He said he should have listened and we replaced the controls and then it was fine. Just yet another thing to consider.
 

Bondo

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Kinda figured after new cables and everything is adjusted per Mercury instructions. Well it will have to stay that way for a while. Not going to disassemble it now after all the new seals. And if it does turn out to be the gear/cone set then oh boy. Will have to think about that before spending $2,300 on it. Thanks for the help. To you and everyone else that helped out.
Ayuh,..... SEI is now sellin' complete Bravo 1s for 'bout $3500.00....
 

dubs283

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after new cables and everything is adjusted per Mercury instructions.
lol

I thought the pinned trunion from your old cable didn't need adjustment?

Kinda think based on this, and your apprehension to merely pulling the drive and digging not much further into the shift components and running the drive for another season you should save up for a new drive or fix it now

FYI, there were many changes to bravo uppers in the early 2000s and installing new gears often requires new needle bearing races and special tools for intall/shimming
 
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