. . . and I Thought Hi-tech Boat Engines Were Bad . . .

jimmbo

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May 24, 2004
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The moment I got a Car with a Computer Controlled Engine(86 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham), I threw in the Towel when it came to Diagnosing, engine, and later, any Drivetrain issues.
I have able to deduce failed O2 sensors, when the Code said Running Lean, but the Exhaust looked like a Diesel, and a failed Fuel Tank Purge Valve.
 

stresspoint

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i think that manufactures of all things that need software to diagnose issues should be compelled by law to open source 5 years after installing it.

IMO , if this does not start to happen soon the vehicles on the road now are going to become death traps.
op has defined this with all the fault codes for finnicky little things that showed up on his open source diagnostic tool.

there too many little sensors and switches that could malfunction and owner or operators will never know they are not working correctly unless the vehicles or machinery is stealer serviced regularly.

most of us that buy older cars because that is what we can afford are not prepared to pay the high cost of stealer servicing just to have a ECU scanned and service reset.
this IMO is going to make for many unsafe vehicles on the roads , machinery on site ,etc.
 

Lou C

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Nov 10, 2002
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Over the years I had a number of old school low tech cars. Breakdowns other than flat tires (remember bias ply tires lol?)
1) 1965 VW Beetle failure of points/condenser got picked up by a college friend came back with points & condenser screw driver & feeler gauge fixed by the side of the road
2) 1970 Ford no on the road breakdowns
3) 1972 Chevy same
4) 1975 Olds 2 failures of HEI module easy fix
5) 1980 Honda reliable till 80,000 miles then mystery carb problems with that quirky Keihin 3 bbl carb never totally figured it out
6) 1982 Mazda 626 no on the road breakdowns
 

tpenfield

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OK - stupid me . . . :unsure:

The car has been acting a bit strange ( I mean more strange than usual :LOL: ) . . . the remote keys suddenly don't work very well and the right rear door lock goes crazy if the remote is near it. o_O I replaced the remote fob's battery to no avail.

So . . . I thought to myself, let me connect the Carly device and see what is going on. Ooops . . . where is the Carly device? No where to be found :oops: . . . Oh, I left it in the ODB2 port since the last time I used it. :rolleyes: I guess the car does not like the Carly device to be connected continuously . . . not that it was my intention.

So, I ran some more diagnostics - now back up to 30 fault codes - , but who knows if that is valid since I ran the car with the device connected.

Going to NJ this weekend, so I'll make sure to have my Auto Club membership card handy in case of a no-start condition. :LOL:
 

tpenfield

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Do you know if you fart more than 3 times in the drivers seat it sets a code beware code P0000
I think the new code is PU1000

Anyway . . the rear door lock still activates when the key is near it . . . might be a water thing making the door handle think someone is touching it.

I'm not sure if it uses some sort of capacitive signal or a slight current when your hand touches it. but it seems to think that someone is touching it repeatedly.
 

dolluper

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Jul 19, 2004
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Ah yes thats a great code
A module is not communicating properly or not sending or receiving from another module
I don't know if your clarey will do class 2 monitoring or not
If it does check to see which modules are active and which aren't .
If you replaced anything on that car recently and did not register it...That may be your problem.. Other modules don't recognize it and send bad signal info through ecm and check engine light after a pre set number of cycles.
I think you already had a couple of dash or instrument codes.. Probably all related.
At least do a class 2 monitor check.
A can of contact spray may be a great friend for you.
BMW = BAD MADE WIRING
 
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tpenfield

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I have yet to see a CEL, but the number of fault codes and general weirdness is troubling. . .
 

airshot

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Had an issue with my wifes Honda. Battery died after many year. Put in a new one and car started right up. However no accessories, no radio, no AC....tried all over to get answers but told the dealer only fix.. Went to local Honda dealer and sure enough, had to reset something then everything worked!! Best part was the service was free, and a free car wash for my trouble!!
 

dingbat

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Nov 20, 2001
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I have yet to see a CEL, but the number of fault codes and general weirdness is troubling. .

When weird stuff is happening in control systems the first place to look is the grounding system.
Had an issue with my wifes Honda. Battery died after many year. Put in a new one and car started right up. However no accessories, no radio, no AC....tried all over to get answers but told the dealer only fix..
Most new cars run an auto-sense circuit to shut down power to non-essential accessories if it senses problems in the charging circuit or a current drain.

Others like my truck, are capable of running different charge profiles based on battery type. As such, you must "register" the new battery with your the vehicle to reset the system.

A one for one battery swap can be done at home following the instructions in owners manual. To change battery type, you need to change the charge code in the ECM
 

dolluper

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Your light will only come on after so many cycles with the fault... Most of the ones the scanner is reporting are pending codes... Like only 2 farts ...at three the light comes on
By the way BMW even wants you to register you headlight bulbs... The kid found that one out ...he changed to some kind of fancy ones and it wouldn't start.... Really too anal to be set up that way...register light bulbs
 
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Lou C

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Yep
points & condenser, 4bbl Q-Jet, no vacuum lines lol.
my next Jeep I want to be a classic Jeep, non-molested by the EPA, powered by this same engine, same carb, etc. The 4.3 V6 is a popular swap into CJ Jeeps due to the short length, shorter than an inline 4 cyl. Simple stuff that can be maintained via aftermarket parts nearly FOREVER....The classic Chevrolet small block, either V6 or V8 is the essence of simplicity
other favorites:
Jeep 4.2 liter six cylinder
Ford 300 cu in six cylinder
GM 250 cu in six cylinder
Chrysler 225 slant six
I like the Jeep 4.0 liter six but to get it you have to put up with Chrysler electronics, lol.
Inline sixes are great in the right vehicle. Perfect primary and secondary balance, 7 main bearings, all cast iron construction
re-assembling the old 4.3 #2.JPG
 
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Lou C

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That didn’t happen when the fuel system was a Holley 4bbl!
 
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