Anchor problem

Wave34

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Oct 17, 2017
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336
On my newly acquired Chaparral signature 260, there is an electric anchor.

Sometimes, when retrieving the anchor, the rope gets stuck under and around the roller.

To me, the problem is either, too much rope in the compartment, or, no guides beside the roller.

I took all the line out and found 240' of rope (labels in the rope at every XX feet) and 30' of chain.

If the rope was there with the previous owners, I suppose he was anchoring in deeper water, but if it is a problem each time I retrieve the anchor, I may cut 100' of the rope.

What you guys would suggest, cutting rope or guides?

Here are some pictures showing the blockage and the space between the roller and the boat.

IMG_20180827_113252.jpgIMG_20180827_113241a.jpgIMG_20180827_113016a.jpg
 

dingbat

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16,079
The problem may also be how you use it.

What is your procedure for retreiving he anchor?
 

tpenfield

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Twisted strand anchor rode is the issue. As the strain is put on the rode during anchoring, and then released as it goes through the winch, the line tends to twist upon itself as shown in one of your pictures.

I assume that there is a swivel on the anchor. You can try to keep some tension on the rode as you bring the anchor in. Or you could change to a braided rode instead of twisted stand.

I'm not sure there is a swivel that will pass through a winch gypsy, as I have a similar issue on occasion, usually when I feed out a lot of line. Been looking for something to add another swivel after about 40 ft. of rode.
 

Wave34

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Oct 17, 2017
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The problem may also be how you use it.

What is your procedure for retreiving he anchor?

Well, right now I have no procedure, I'm learning by trying.
I looked at some video, read a bit on the subject, but I try to let the motor pull the boat. If it is too hard, I move the boat a bit to try to unhook the anchor from the bottom.

Do you mean that the rope needs to be in tension all the time?
And if I move the boat and the rope looses tension, it may create the problem?

BTW, if I let only the chain out, I have no problem retrieving the anchor.
 

Wave34

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Oct 17, 2017
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Twisted strand anchor rode is the issue. As the strain is put on the rode during anchoring, and then released as it goes through the winch, the line tends to twist upon itself as shown in one of your pictures.

I assume that there is a swivel on the anchor. You can try to keep some tension on the rode as you bring the anchor in. Or you could change to a braided rode instead of twisted stand.

I'm not sure there is a swivel that will pass through a winch gypsy, as I have a similar issue on occasion, usually when I feed out a lot of line. Been looking for something to add another swivel after about 40 ft. of rode.

Right now there is no swivel at all.
Nothing between the rope and chain, and nothing between the chain and anchor.

Sometimes the anchor comes in upside down. Do you think a swivel at the anchor may help to solve that problem?

While measuring my rope, I experienced what you describe, the rope twisting on itself in my hands.

May be the solution is to replace the rope with a stranded type and use a bit less.
What length is usually used by pleasure boats?
270' in my boat seems excessive.
 

Scott Danforth

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270' of rope is for about 27-30 foot of depth
 

tpenfield

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A swivel at the chain / anchor connection will help.

i have about 120 ft of 3-strand that is mated to 100 ft of braided and 15 feet of chain.

the most I let out for near shore anchoring is about 60 feet. The extra line is in case you needed to anchor in deep water, which is usually an emergency or stranded situation.

Add a swivel and see how that goes.
 

alldodge

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Depends on where you boat. If your in the ocean an things get bad quick you might need it. If your in inland lake then probably not, you can always run in or tie to a beach.

I anchor in 60 to 70 feet and have 125 feet of all chain (no rode), and it has only once broke free, but then again I was holding 6 boats and 2 of them where over 35 feet.
 

JoLin

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The jamming at the gypsy is very often due to there being too much rode piling up in the anchor locker. I ordered my windlass with 200 feet of rope and 15' of chain. Over the course of 2 seasons I shortened it by 20' at a time. I'm down to 140' of rope and it lays much better in the locker. It can also occasionally hang up at the chain-rope splice. Doesn't always feed cleanly into the "hole."

I sometimes have to reverse the windlass during retrieval if I see it starting to jam up, then retrieve a couple feet at a time until I'm past that point.

Don't run out and chop off 100' of line. Too much, too soon. Deploy your anchor, retrieve a hundred feet and observe how it's laying out in the locker. Retrieve some more. Observe. Repeat.

My .02
 

Wave34

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AllDodge, I boat in lakes and rivers, no ocean here, so depth are not that great.
I see you use only chain, no rope. Having only chain, the multiplier to find the scope is reduced a lot. That may be practical when anchoring in a bay near other boats, smaller radius.

Like tpenfield said, I think having twisted rope instead of braided doesn't help. All online stores I look suggest double braided and nylon is the best.

But now, I have many expenses, so, I will try to reduce the length of the existing rope, not 100' the first time, but like JoLin said, may be 20-30 first and try like that.

Thank you all for the help.

Just a last question.
What is the advantage, if any, of having a windlass vertically instead of horizontally, like a truck winch?
Is it only because they are exposed and look better? (usually chromed or stainless)
 

tpenfield

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Thank you all for the help.

Just a last question.
What is the advantage, if any, of having a windlass vertically instead of horizontally, like a truck winch?
Is it only because they are exposed and look better? (usually chromed or stainless)

The chicks dig vertical windlasses :D
 

Scott Danforth

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Plan for the worse, hope for the best.

BTW, there are not enough anchors and rope to save a boat from a huricane. However a 10:1 rode is good for a mild storm
 

Mischief Managed

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I highly recommend adding a swivel between the anchor and the chain (which totally fixed the same exact issue on my horizontal windlass). Additionally, I would also see how stiff the rope has become. If it's more than 10 years old (or the boat is anchored often), it may be too stiff to operate properly in your windlass. You may be able to get a few more years out of it by swapping ends so that the well-used section stays in the rode locker. If you do need to buy a new rope, consult your windlass manual for the recommended brand and size.

Horizontal windlasses can really touchy about the rope they use. I learned this the hard way... Mine requires a very specific type of New England Ropes brand three strand nylon. Be careful about purchasing some expensive brained line that may not work. Also, the rope to chain splice with braided rope requires a properly sized fid and still may not fit through your windlass. Three strand line requires no special tools for splicing. Google "rope to chain splice" to see how it's done. I can do a nice one in about 10 minutes, and I am terrible at it.
.
 

Wave34

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Mischief Managed;n10648251[COLOR=#FF0000 said:
]I highly recommend adding a swivel between the anchor and the chain[/COLOR] (which totally fixed the same exact issue on my horizontal windlass). Additionally, I would also see how stiff the rope has become. If it's more than 10 years old (or the boat is anchored often), it may be too stiff to operate properly in your windlass. You may be able to get a few more years out of it by swapping ends so that the well-used section stays in the rode locker. If you do need to buy a new rope, consult your windlass manual for the recommended brand and size.

Horizontal windlasses can really touchy about the rope they use. I learned this the hard way... Mine requires a very specific type of New England Ropes brand three strand nylon. Be careful about purchasing some expensive brained line that may not work. Also, the rope to chain splice with braided rope requires a properly sized fid and still may not fit through your windlass. Three strand line requires no special tools for splicing. Google "rope to chain splice" to see how it's done. I can do a nice one in about 10 minutes, and I am terrible at it.
.

I will add the swivel as soon as I have a chance.

Yesterday, went boating and anchored. While retrieving the anchor, I asked my wife to actuate the switch while I was up front to look at how the rope was coming in.
I had to push the rope farther back once in a while because it was piling.
BUT, big surprise!
When the chain started to enter the well and piling up, it got pushed back in between the roller and the boat, same thing as the rope on the picture. It was really stuck. I had to use a hammer and a wrench and hammer the chain to free it.

I start to think that installing a guide or plate to keep the rope or chain down would be a good idea.
 

Mischief Managed

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I will add the swivel as soon as I have a chance.

Yesterday, went boating and anchored. While retrieving the anchor, I asked my wife to actuate the switch while I was up front to look at how the rope was coming in.
I had to push the rope farther back once in a while because it was piling.
BUT, big surprise!
When the chain started to enter the well and piling up, it got pushed back in between the roller and the boat, same thing as the rope on the picture. It was really stuck. I had to use a hammer and a wrench and hammer the chain to free it.

I start to think that installing a guide or plate to keep the rope or chain down would be a good idea.

If the chain gets twisted, it can do that too. Fingers are crossed that the swivel will solve the issue. If you have the ability to take all the rode out of the locker and get it untwisted before you add the swivel, it will likely help. This is the one I use: https://www.iboats.com/shop/seadog-...USqwcm6V_gIWPdu_A5iLD5-1KeKef6uhoC8F0QAvD_BwE
 

Wave34

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Oct 17, 2017
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If the chain gets twisted, it can do that too. Fingers are crossed that the swivel will solve the issue. If you have the ability to take all the rode out of the locker and get it untwisted before you add the swivel, it will likely help. This is the one I use: https://www.iboats.com/shop/seadog-s...hoC8F0QAvD_BwE

I will have my brand new trailer delivered tomorrow (hopefully) and will take the boat home and take all the rode out and untwist it like you propose.

I will also check for stiffness like you said.

I took a look at your swivel link, I will get one.
Unfortunately, iBoats doesn't ship to Canada (no option in checkout).
I will look locally.

Thanks everyone for the help, I will get the boat sorted out eventually to my tastes.

EDIT: Mischief Managed, about the swivel, do you mean between the chain and anchor or rope and chain?
 
Last edited:

Mischief Managed

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I took a look at your swivel link, I will get one.
Unfortunately, iBoats doesn't ship to Canada (no option in checkout).
I will look locally.


EDIT: Mischief Managed, about the swivel, do you mean between the chain and anchor or rope and chain?

Swivel goes between chain and anchor. You have to have a rope to chain splice between the rope and chain parts of your rode.

Where are you in Canada? I was just in Ontario and Quebec on The Rideau, Ottawa River and St. Lawrence River.
 
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