Anchor advice needed for rocky and tree bottom lake

ib39349802

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I have been searching through several forums, but so far have not been able to find much advice based on my situation. Currently we use a Danforth anchor and loose about one a year to the lake. To free that anchor it takes a little engine power about half of the time. I was looking at a grappling/folding anchor, with attaching the chain to the crown, zip tieing it to the ring, but not sure if it would be any better or strong enough.

Boat:
23ft Mumba

Lake:
Tablerock, the area's that we anchor are normally have under water trees, large rocks, and mud at the bottom. We have pulled a few trees up with the anchor.

Conditions:
On busy days we can get a decent about of waves. On windy days, the bimini top and flag are really good and catching the wind.
 

alldodge

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When there are trees about any anchor can get hung. I boat in one of those and use a Bruce (Claw) anchor and so far have not lost it in maybe 20 years. Would have lost in some years back but had scuba gear and freed it
 

ib39349802

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When there are trees about any anchor can get hung. I boat in one of those and use a Bruce (Claw) anchor and so far have not lost it in maybe 20 years. Would have lost in some years back but had scuba gear and freed it
Do you attach the chain/rope at the claw end of the anchor and use a breakaway like at the other end?
 

alldodge

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Do you attach the chain/rope at the claw end of the anchor and use a breakaway like at the other end?
Normal connection at the end, not at the claw. You can put a lot of force like a claw hammer pulling backwards to break it loose. I'm also all chain and its a Formula PC so the anchor tucks into a pocket on the bow
 

JimS123

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Use a Navy anchor.....a cheap one. The tines are not as sharp as a Danforth, so it will be easier to free, but it will still have reasonably good holding power.
 

southkogs

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I get a lot of rock and sometimes trees where I boat too. I opted to use a mushroom anchor on mine (smaller than your boat). I drift a little at anchor, but I'm not usually trying to hold a long time and have plenty of room. The mushroom rarely gets hung up. And when it does, it seems to rock free with a couple of simple pulls.

I've got a couple of other anchors, but the 'shroom seems to fit the bill most often.
 

dingbat

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When anchoring in and round "hang ups" pretty popular to break out the home made, rebar, "wreck" anchors.

Cheap to make........don't worry about loosing them
 

southkogs

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... I supposed I could mention the old concrete "bucket" anchors we used to make up north. If ya' lost 'em ... no problem :)
 

ib39349802

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There are ballast bags in compartment where the anchor is currently stored, so rebar is a no go. We have been thinking about concrete bucket in one or two coves that we frequent, but that would only solve the problem some times in those places.
 

ib39349802

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I get a lot of rock and sometimes trees where I boat too. I opted to use a mushroom anchor on mine (smaller than your boat). I drift a little at anchor, but I'm not usually trying to hold a long time and have plenty of room. The mushroom rarely gets hung up. And when it does, it seems to rock free with a couple of simple pulls.

I've got a couple of other anchors, but the 'shroom seems to fit the bill most often.
We lost 2 mushroom anchors in one weekend, may have been the luck of the draw, but never bought them again.
 

Texasmark

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I have been searching through several forums, but so far have not been able to find much advice based on my situation. Currently we use a Danforth anchor and loose about one a year to the lake. To free that anchor it takes a little engine power about half of the time. I was looking at a grappling/folding anchor, with attaching the chain to the crown, zip tieing it to the ring, but not sure if it would be any better or strong enough.

Boat:
23ft Mumba

Lake:
Tablerock, the area's that we anchor are normally have under water trees, large rocks, and mud at the bottom. We have pulled a few trees up with the anchor.

Conditions:
On busy days we can get a decent about of waves. On windy days, the bimini top and flag are really good and catching the wind.
I used to fish places like that and I too would get the Danforth hung up. I found a Danforth that had a bent rod attachment that allowed you to drop the anchor, and then back down to set it but if hung up, you drive against the wind/current pulling the rope with you and a slip ring that was at the normal end of the anchor would slide up that external rod and become attached to the Fluke attachment end. Continuing to pull in that direction would pull the anchor free, easily detectible while pulling and the anchor is loose.

I just looked in an old West Marine catalog. How about:
Hooker Quick Set Economy with "Slip Lock"
;4.5#, Boats 15-19', 17" long, 9 ½" Fluke length, West PN 389710,TIEDO#95011, 2.5#, 17.99. They have larger for larger boats.
 

ib39349802

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I used to fish places like that and I too would get the Danforth hung up. I found a Danforth that had a bent rod attachment that allowed you to drop the anchor, and then back down to set it but if hung up, you drive against the wind/current pulling the rope with you and a slip ring that was at the normal end of the anchor would slide up that external rod and become attached to the Fluke attachment end. Continuing to pull in that direction would pull the anchor free, easily detectible while pulling and the anchor is loose.

I just looked in an old West Marine catalog. How about:
Hooker Quick Set Economy with "Slip Lock"
;4.5#, Boats 15-19', 17" long, 9 ½" Fluke length, West PN 389710,TIEDO#95011, 2.5#, 17.99. They have larger for larger boats.
This is an interesting idea. I think that the current anchor has this design, but not the loop/ring that slides
 

JimS123

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I used to fish places like that and I too would get the Danforth hung up. I found a Danforth that had a bent rod attachment that allowed you to drop the anchor, and then back down to set it but if hung up, you drive against the wind/current pulling the rope with you and a slip ring that was at the normal end of the anchor would slide up that external rod and become attached to the Fluke attachment end. Continuing to pull in that direction would pull the anchor free, easily detectible while pulling and the anchor is loose.

I just looked in an old West Marine catalog. How about:
Hooker Quick Set Economy with "Slip Lock"
;4.5#, Boats 15-19', 17" long, 9 ½" Fluke length, West PN 389710,TIEDO#95011, 2.5#, 17.99. They have larger for larger boats.
Been there done that. If you are in a current it won't work. You need to slack the line enough to get the slip ring to fall. If the current has the line tight it will continue to pull from the top.
 

The John

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You may want to check out a Columbia river style anchor (Link: https://www.anchor-caddie.com/pages/river-anchoring)

Basically you use an anchor that has a length of chain attached to it. When you are ready to retrieve the anchor you start the boat, put the buoy out, and drive forward allowing the buoy to bring the anchor to the surface. if the anchor is stuck the zip tie will break and free the anchor.

Its what we use on the Columbia river and it works really well.
 

alldodge

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The OP is in a lake, your not going to find many trees (as in stumps) in a river. I have never got my 3 prong mushroom anchor hung up in the river (Ohio, KY, Cumberland, Green and couple others ) on my Rinker.

The OP also has a Mumba, and don't see drilling holes on the bow
 

ib39349802

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You may want to check out a Columbia river style anchor (Link: https://www.anchor-caddie.com/pages/river-anchoring)

Basically you use an anchor that has a length of chain attached to it. When you are ready to retrieve the anchor you start the boat, put the buoy out, and drive forward allowing the buoy to bring the anchor to the surface. if the anchor is stuck the zip tie will break and free the anchor.

Its what we use on the Columbia river and it works really well.
I think that the chain attached at the bottom of the anchor, with a ziptie/break away link at the top is going to be the best way to recover, basically any way to pull the anchor from the bottom rather than the top.

That Columbia anchor i think would be hard to find a spot for it on the boat, and it would probably get hung up due to hits arms/claw.
 

jhande

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I haven't had experience yet in motor boats, but in my canoe and small boat I used the full circle mushroom anchor. I fished in lakes and ponds and most had different underwater structures and bottoms. Sand, gravel, big rocks & boulders, soft weeds, sunken trees, etc... I had two different weights, 10 lb for the canoe and a 20+ lb for the small boat (14' row boat w/ trolling motor). Even though the anchor got hung up on the trees or boulders I was always able to get it loose.

Just my experience, don't know if it helps.
 

QBhoy

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Folding anchors are useless.
without doubt, for the conditions you’ve described and especially mud...there is no better anchor than a Bruce anchor. Period ! But as you’ll know...any anchor is useless without the chain to help. It’s all about the chain. So on my 23ft cruiser. I used a 7kg Bruce anchor and usually anchored in depths of 5-15ft. 7kg Bruce and about 30ft of chain and she never moved once. Even in serious winds overnight. Even had a boat alongside me either side holding them strong too.
 

Texasmark

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Been there done that. If you are in a current it won't work. You need to slack the line enough to get the slip ring to fall. If the current has the line tight it will continue to pull from the top.
I used mine in lakes and had no problem with current as there wasn't any. If you maybe had chain attached and backed up hard enough.......I usually carried 100' of anchor line and never anchored in more than 25'. I think I am remembering an occasion where I couldn't get the anchor loose and just ran the line (rope) to a stern lifting handle attached to the transom, tied it off there and pulled forward opposite of the direction I was going when I set it and got it loose. Anyway, an option.
 
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