Aluminum Boat Mod Questions

Joined
Aug 17, 2003
Messages
11
Hello - I have a 12' Quaticha V-bottom aluminum boat - early 60's I believe. It is powered by a 9.9 Mercury Tiller. The aluminum and rivets are sound - no leaks whatsoever. However, the transom is rotten - removed it yesterday. I need to make some modifications to make the boat more comfortable and functionable. I mainly use this boat for river fishing, and it is often necessary to exit the boat and drag it over a sand bar, and at times, carry it a short distance. That, and being that the boat is small, I want to be very careful about adding too much weight.

I have seen many discussions on modifying metal boats, some of the information I can use, but a lot of the modifications are just too heavy. So, here are my questions:

1. The transom that came out was ~ 1 1/4" overall. Looked like a piece of 3/4" and 1/2" plywood. I was thinking of repeating this, but gluing the pieces together and maybe adding some SS fastners. Would that be OK? What about sealing it? I was thinking of a few coats of oil based paint. I can see that the existing transom rotted because of leakage where the fastners that secure it penetrate the boat. These fastners look to be original - pan head, slotted, aluminum? Could I achieve a better seal with nylon washers, and maybe coating the threads with some sort of sealant to protect the wood?

2. Adding a cooler for fish. I don't want the weight of a livewell, and I don't like using a stringer. The fish are dead after a long day, and it's a real hassle and mess to drag them in and out of the boat when moving. I have been using an ice chest, but it takes a large one to hold a 2 man limit of white bass, and there's just no good place anywhere in the boat for it. I was thinking of fabricating a (don't know what to call this) "bulkhead" if you will, the same shape as the vertical upright of the middle bench seat. I know I could do it with wood, but I think one piece of aluminum cut and bent correctly, and then riveted in would work best. This would be mounted in front of the existing bench seat, thus creating a cavity between the front of the existing middle bench seat and the fabricated "bulk head". Of course, since I plan on filling it with ice, I'd have to insulate it somehow. The height of this "bulk head" would be about the same height as the existing center bench seat, and I planned on a hinged / padded lid that would span my new cooler and the middle bench seat, thus creating a larger and more comfortable center seat. I know this adds some weight, but it would be near the center of the boat, and would be much better distributed than one big ice chest. I'd welcome any ideas and / or criticism. And, if you think this is a good idea, I'd need ideas on how to insulate it.

3. Storage in the rear bench seat. I know I can't remove it, but what if I cut a hole in the top large enough to store - say a life vest? I would smooth the edges of course and perhaps cover it with a rubber edge sealer. This would also have a padded / hinged lid - gaining storage and creating comfort.

4. Adding a rear seat. Wrestling that tiller all day from that low, narrow, metal seat just kills my back. I have seen some boat pics on this site that have a seat with a back mounted on the rear bench. I know it would be more comfortable as far as just sitting in it, but does that arrangement allow good comfort and proper control while underway?

If you read this far, THANKS for bearing with me. I would appreciate any and all comments or suggestions.

Thanks,
Brian Anderson
 
D

DJ

Guest
Re: Aluminum Boat Mod Questions

All your ideas are sound, except (maybe) cutting a hole in the one thwart seat. There is probably foam in there. It is needed for level flotation, if you should swamp.
 

dedawg1149

Cadet
Joined
Jul 10, 2008
Messages
8
Re: Aluminum Boat Mod Questions

sounds good set it up were it is comfortable for you and be safe
 

fishrdan

Admiral
Joined
Jan 25, 2008
Messages
6,989
Re: Aluminum Boat Mod Questions

Your plan of gluing and painting the transom plywood is good, PL construction adhesive or Gorilla glue will work well for bonding the plywood together and Rustoleum is a favorite paint around here. To seal the fasteners, coat them with 3M 5200 sealer before installation, paint thinner will clean up 5200 really nice. The fasteners are most likely stainless steel, get truss head screws and ny-lock nuts if you can find them. If you wanted it to last forever fiber glassing the plywood would work really nice,,, but the original lasted,,, how long?

3. Storage in the rear bench seat.
4. Adding a rear seat.

Here's what I did on my 14' jon boat for storage in the seats, swivel seats are on top of the compartment lids and the rear compartment lid is split for easy access to things without getting up. (sorry no pic handy of the rear seat) DJ is right about flotation, I lined the compartments with 2" foam and the decks have foam underneath. I have more flotation now than the boat came with. Rolling the lip over on the compartment openings was kind of a PITA, but needed to make the openings rigid.

dscf2181.jpg
 

tashasdaddy

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
Joined
Nov 11, 2005
Messages
51,019
Re: Aluminum Boat Mod Questions

fishrdan is right on about the transom. your plan for a bulkhead to make a cooler would not add anymore weight than a cooler full of ice and fish.

here is a transom i did, push i added a splash well. PL 100% poly adhesive, this was a glass boat so it got glassed in. but i have used the 3 coats of oil base paint on many aluminum boats.

transom001.jpg


transom002.jpg


readyforglass001-1.jpg
 
Top