Alpha one sterndrive seal kit

MI-TY

Cadet
Joined
Oct 21, 2014
Messages
18
Does anyone know if there is a all inclusive kit for replacing your water pump and bellows? Meaning, a kit that includes all gaskets, clamps,ect for replacing your water pump and bellows and shift cable. My sterndrive is an Alpha one, vintage 1988 (not Generation 2)

I plan on doing my water pump,lower shift cable and bellows and was wondering if there is a all in one package I can order.

I would only want the Quicksilver parts. I decided it's not worth the risk to use after-market bellows and water pump parts just to save $50-$75 it's not worth the worry.
 

achris

More fish than mountain goat
Joined
May 19, 2004
Messages
27,468
You need 3'kits'. But I suggest you pull things apart before ordering parts.
 

alldodge

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Does anyone know if there is a all inclusive kit for replacing your water pump and bellows? Meaning, a kit that includes all gaskets, clamps,ect for replacing your water pump and bellows and shift cable. My sterndrive is an Alpha one, vintage 1988 (not Generation 2)

I plan on doing my water pump,lower shift cable and bellows and was wondering if there is a all in one package I can order.

I would only want the Quicksilver parts. I decided it's not worth the risk to use after-market bellows and water pump parts just to save $50-$75 it's not worth the worry.

There is not an all inclusive kit for what your wanting. In the after market world you can find a kit for the boots, but not OEM. In most cases you can reuse the hose clamps but if you do need them
51-815504372 Hose clamp U-joint (2 each)
51-815504412 Hose clamp Exhaust (2 each)
51-815504320 Clamp Shift Cable
54-866507 Shaft cable clamp (can also use a small hose clamp)

60932A4 U-joint bellows
18654A1 Exhaust boot
74639A2 Boot shift cable
27-35982 Rubber Bell housing gasket
27-94996Q2 Bell housing gasket
25-33504 O-ring Bell housing

26-36557 Rubber seal, water pocket
26-38970 Seal water inlet

879194A02 Gimbal Bearing

http://www.mercruiserparts.com/Show...0065.png&inbr=2203&bnbr=60&bdesc=BELL+HOUSING
http://www.mercruiserparts.com/Show...MBAL+HOUSING+SQUARE/SQUARE+UPPER+SWIVEL+SHAFT
http://www.mercruiserparts.com/Show...GEAR+HOUSING(DRIVESHAFT)+-+(COUNTER+ROTATION)

Ther water pump repair kit should be 47-89984T5, your drive serial number could help verify
 

JaCrispy

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 8, 2014
Messages
391
I just went through this with my boat. Plan on ordering seals, etc a la carte. A couple surprises I needed to repair was the steer pin seals and shift shaft seals. My "complete bellows kit" didn't come with bellows glue. And don't forget the upper unit to bellhousing gasket.

Oh, and the gimbal bearing kit doesn't come with a seal either. lol
 
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achris

More fish than mountain goat
Joined
May 19, 2004
Messages
27,468
There is a genuine Merc 'transom seal kit', which includes the 3 bellows, hose clamps, gimbal bearing, a length of water hose and the leg gasket. Part number is 30-803097T1.... (and JaCrispy is right, no adhesive, the number is 92-86166Q1. But I've never bothered pulling and replacing the seal behind the gimbal bearing...)

images%5Cmer%5C85.jpg


As this includes a shift cable bellows, order the shift cable kit that is without the bellows... Part number is -865436A02..

images%5Cmer%5C1170.jpg

But the water pump is where it gets tricky... On pulling it apart you'll know what you need. It might be just the impeller and gaskets, in which case just order those (part number 47-89984Q5)

images%5Cmer%5C2228.jpg


but if you need a housing as well, the kit is a different one. Part number 46-96148A8

images%5Cmer%5C2573.jpg



If you also need a base, the part number is 46-44292A3.
images%5Cmer%5C1032.jpg


And if you need help with what to look for on the water pump, have a look at my video on water pump servicing...

Servicing the water pump impeller in 1966-1991 (MC-1 to Alpha One) drives.


Hope this helps...

Chris..........
 
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thumpar

Admiral
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Jun 21, 2007
Messages
6,138
Don't worry about replacing the seal. It is not a seal the protects anything.
 

MI-TY

Cadet
Joined
Oct 21, 2014
Messages
18
achris,

What you put up there is what I was basically going to purchase. I was hoping there was a one "buy all" package. Oh well.

As far as taking it apart before ordering anything I had wanted to replace all of this stuff because the boat sat in storage for 5 years.

I did had a problem with the temperature climbing after I accidentally ran the impeller dry when I was winterizing the motor and was trying to get the pump to suck up the antifreeze without pressure from a hose.

I realized after about 90 seconds the antifreeze solution was just leaking out the bottom and not being sucked up by the pump. After I stopped the motor, I hooked up a hose and ran the motor again and the temperature gauge would all the sudden spike after a minute or so of running. I checked the thermostat thinking that was the culprit but it was functioning fine.

After 3 attempts to see if the problem would continue (allowing the motor to cool each time) the problem behaved exactly the same every time. I decided to do a compression test after this and got steady 125-130 psi readings from all 8 cylinders. I can only assume that this issue is most likely the impeller seeing that it probably was on it's way out before I decided to cook it in its housing thinking that gravity would be enough to push 4 gallons of antifreeze up into the impeller housing and spread it around the motor.

During the beginning of last season I had the same problem the first time I fired up the motor getting ready to put it in the lake. After running it a few min. it cleared up but came back 2 more times within the first month and never did it again for about 20 hours of operation.

Hopefully the impeller housing is the culprit. I am not too concerned seeing the compression test was giving me solid numbers and the water pump on the 5.7 feels tight and shows no signs of leaking.

Any thoughts?
 

achris

More fish than mountain goat
Joined
May 19, 2004
Messages
27,468
NEVER, NEVER, NEVER use that method of getting anti-freeze into the engine... All you will end up doing is filling the manifolds. The engine block and heads will remain with mostly water and you'll have a cracked block come spring....

If you must fill with anti-freeze (personally, a complete waste of time and money, but there you go), drain the water out of the block and manifolds, open the thermostat housing and fill with AF.... Remove the drive and drain it of water, and allow any water to drain out of the inlet hose. If you have a power steering cooler, take the drain from that and allow it to drain.... Close the covers and see it in spring...

Personally, just drain block (2 ports), manifolds (1 port each) and steering cooler.... remove drive... Job finished.... (remembering to poke the drains with a bit of wire or a small screwdriver to ensure they're not clogged)....

Chris....

If you've run the engine without water, you're going to need a full housing kit AND a new base.... (I'd also be checking the water pocket cover for a heat induced leak)
 
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MI-TY

Cadet
Joined
Oct 21, 2014
Messages
18
I did fill with antifreeze... after I drained everything..block drain valves, manifolds, lower hose on water pump, hot water heater ,inlet from sterndrive.ect.

I dumped about a gallon and a half down the thermostat assembly..just to sooth my nerves. I felt more comfortable once I had opened the drain valves after I was done and saw antifreeze flow out instead of raw water.

Where is this water pocket spot located?
 
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