Alpha knocking noise video.

1985 Century Mustang

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I just found this video on YouTube with the same knocking sound as mine, and it's almost identical. The poster said it was his coupler. Needless I'm going to remove the engine and inspect the flywheel also.

 
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Dubed

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I just found this video on YouTube with the same knocking sound as mine, and it's almost identical. The poster said it was his coupler. Needless I'm going to remove the engine and inspect the flywheel also.

Either your coupler or your flywheel is so loose that its ready to fall off, or its internal. You will know soon enough when you pull the motor. Not much left to talk about till you pull it out and inspect
 

1985 Century Mustang

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Mar 9, 2023
Messages
532
Either your coupler or your flywheel is so loose that its ready to fall off, or its internal. You will know soon enough when you pull the motor. Not much left to talk about till you pull it out and inspect

Yes no doubt. I'll know soon enough when she's pulled. I hope it's just some loose bolts that loctite can't fix perhaps. Anyways it will be done correct whatever is necessary.
 

1985 Century Mustang

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532
Did a compression test today:
Cylinder 4 - 150
Cylinder 3 - 150
Cylinder 2 - 165
Cylinder 1 - 145
Pretty darn good for a 1985 Mercruiser 140.
 

1985 Century Mustang

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Joined
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Messages
532
The Engine was removed, and as I suspected some coupler bolts were loose or not tightened enough on the flywheel. Further, The 2 rear motor mount bolts were rusted solid. We tried effortlessly to remove them, but to no avail. So we had to seperate the engine from the rear flywheel housing to get the engine free. The inspection plate was removed.

Now the fun starts. I may use MAP propane to heat up the frozen bolts. Unless anyone here has some better ideas. The rear motor mount bolts were rusted in their metal bushing casing and into the housing. They are threaded and can't be punched out.

We had tried many ways to get them out for almost 4 hours or so. With a hoist, PB rust spray, impact drill, hammer etc. They wouldn't budge, we even cut the heads off the bolts, and still wouldn't come out of there rusted grave.

The last photo is just a picture of the flywheel housing that's still on the boat after we removed the engine. The second photo just shows the rear motor mount bolt that are rusted shut, that we may burn out with MAP gas hopefully.

Screenshot_20230520_073459_Gallery.jpgScreenshot_20230519_203834_Message+.jpgScreenshot_20230520_054320_eBay.jpg
 
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1985 Century Mustang

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Mar 9, 2023
Messages
532
I'm going to replace the coupler and purchase a new starter, the old starter worked effortlessly but I need to be pro active as this is a boat and the starter looks pretty dam old and has seen it's better days.14818.jpeg
 
Joined
May 29, 2023
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The Engine was removed, and as I suspected some coupler bolts were loose or not tightened enough on the flywheel. Further, The 2 rear motor mount bolts were rusted solid. We tried effortlessly to remove them, but to no avail. So we had to seperate the engine from the rear flywheel housing to get the engine free. The inspection plate was removed.

Now the fun starts. I may use MAP propane to heat up the frozen bolts. Unless anyone here has some better ideas. The rear motor mount bolts were rusted in their metal bushing casing and into the housing. They are threaded and can't be punched out.

We had tried many ways to get them out for almost 4 hours or so. With a hoist, PB rust spray, impact drill, hammer etc. They wouldn't budge, we even cut the heads off the bolts, and still wouldn't come out of there rusted grave.

The last photo is just a picture of the flywheel housing that's still on the boat after we removed the engine. The second photo just shows the rear motor mount bolt that are rusted shut, that we may burn out with MAP gas hopefully.

View attachment 379529View attachment 379530View attachment 379531
Thanks for the updates
 
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