After dropping exhaust manifold to replace starter, I forgot to turn the raw water valve back on!

[sdowney717]

Motor started and its running, don't notice anything off. After a few minutes looking at temp gauges it was running higher than normal. Then I saw the exhaust was blowing bluish smoke, and I though what is wrong now. Then it hit me, forgot to open the valve. The smoke was exhaust gas burning something, like maybe charring the inside of the exhaust hoses.

Felt the Jabsco pump it was warm, not hot. Normally it runs cool.
Opened valve restart motor and it is pumping water like nothing ever happened.
I felt exhaust hoses they were warm, nothing is off looking about any of them.
Seems the large rubber impellor survived intact?

 

[alldodge]

Motor started and its running, don't notice anything off. After a few minutes looking at temp gauges it was running higher than normal.

Seems the large rubber impellor survived intact?

I will vote no it didn't, because your on a hose so the hose is pushing water thru the motor.

 

[Scott Danforth]

All the rubber hoses in your exhaust also need inspection. The exhaust went from 220 degrees with water to 1100 without. The rubber melts at 250f

 

[sdowney717]

I will vote no it didn't, because your on a hose so the hose is pushing water thru the motor.

Boat is in a slip, so it's in the water.
I just ordered an impellor from Amazon, in case it fails on me.
920-0001 M silhouette.

Yes, will look over all the hoses, it has a large FG muffer after the Y (v8 engine) which holds a pond of water in it. I figure that is why exhaust was also steaming like crazy.

From risers, basically two 3" hoses merge in a bronze Y and a rubber coupler to the muffler, then a black plastic like tube to another rubber coupler to a copper pipe out the transom. (Inboard engine)

 

[sdowney717]

Believe it or not, was worth changing impeller as one blade was crack off, gone missing, but is not in the heat exchanger! And these are big pieces of rubber, The end of the heat exchanger, a plate can be removed exposing all the 1/4" tubes and there was nothing in their but water. Maybe, just maybe, years ago I did not have another impeller and put a damaged one in to keep going, then totally slipped my mind to replace it. And as it was working ok, then my mind would not have thought to put in a new one. I mean it was and still is cooling the engine with enough flow. IF it had broken off recently, it would be in the end of the heat exchanger. So I guess I will also keep it again as an emergency backup. The vanes are not worn looking or cracked, of course they are slightly bent over. I have seen impeller fails that just ripped every vane off leaving just a center core on the shaft.

I put in a new 10 vane I had and ordered an 8 vane off Amazon. I also saw I have 2 new 10 vane impellers in a drawer on the boat which I must have bought a number of years ago after a failure. I do recall a failure, engine overheating and impeller ripped to shreds, but was over 10 years ago.

For my belt driven pump, I unbolt the pump at its base, disconnect the inlet hose, and slip it off sideways. I never have to readjust belt tension as the belt fully wraps both pulleys are small, maybe 5 inch and never slips, it is a large wide A belt. I use dish soap to help get a new impeller into the pump. I use 2 screw drivers and lever out the old impeller. Always use a new gasket after cleaning the mating surfaces. I also use some Teflon pipe sealer on the paper gasket.

I also put that on the hose nipples as it helps keep rubber hoses from sticking. Never had a hose pop off doing that.

RectorSeal T Plus 2 in. 4 oz. Teflon Pipe-Thread Putty/Sealant 23633 - The Home Depot

RectorSeal T Plus 2 pipe thread sealants are a non-setting, multi-purpose compound which contains PTFE, plus synthetic fibers to create a stronger seal. Recommended for use on threaded galvanized steel,

www.homedepot.com

 

[sdowney717]

AND, get this, I will need a new bearing for this 5330 pump. If you buy Jabsco it could be expensive, BUT there is a common deep groove ball bearing that will fit fine.
Jabsco part 92600-0060 is equal to
W204PP DEEP GROOVE BEARING 20mm shaft X 47mm height X 13/16 INCH wide

 

[sdowney717]

I had a spare Jabsco 8510F pump so I pulled the bearing from it to use in the other pump. All 4 of the Jabsco pumps in my engines use the same bearing.

Here is described the bearing and alternative part numbers

3110-00-203-6687 - ANNULAR BALL BEARING | WBParts

www.wbparts.com

Part Alternates: SP260006, SP2600-06, 55504L1Z, 92600-0060, 3110-00-203-6687, 00-203-6687, 3110002036687, 002036687, 926000060

Used a gear puller to remove the bearing from shaft. And a gear puller to slide bearing back on shaft. Putting shaft back into pump body, it is not good idea to hit even with wood. The SS shaft is very soft. Recommend to press or hit the bearing shell. I found a better way. Put some grease on body and bearing shell. Put bearing shaft into freezer. Use propane torch to heat pump body. It slipped right in no fuss, no hitting, no press. Torch does not need to get pump body too hot.

The inner carbon face seal on these can get stuck due to corrosion. Soak pump body in white vinegar overnight may free up the carbon seal. It is supposed to be spring loaded. A very thin rubber Oring is inside the face seal assembly, and it is supposed to be able to roll and let the carbon face go up and down. It can also just be worn out.