Advice wanted on Bearing Repack

[pckeen]

I had planned on just doing a bearing repack on a trailer with no brakes, but discovered that the bolts were so rusted onto the existing studs that the studs span in their sockets. Also discovered that a previous owner had used some threaded studs, and some press in studs. Some bearings and races were shot, others were OK. Long and the short of it - I got two new hubs, which came with new bearings, races, seals and dust cap.

When I put the new hubs on, they fit well, but I noticed that there was no washer in between the castle nut and the bearing on the original hubs, nor was there a washer included with the new hub kit. I'm using the original castle nuts, which were in good shape still. So I installed the new hubs (which came with races pre-installled), bearings and seals - but I didn't install a washer in between the castle nut and bearing.

When I tightened the castle nut a hair over finger tight, to a point where it would allow me to insert the cotter pin, there was a little play in the wheel, but the wheel spun freely. When I tightened it a little more using a wrench (to the next point where the castle nut would allow the cotter pin to be inserted), the wheel would spin, but would slow down fairly quickly suggesting there was a little too much pressure on the bearing - however, the play in the wheel was gone.

So what should I do? Leave it too loose or too tight?

 

[gm280]

I will offer my opinion on this, but I am certain others will chime in and shoot it down. But each has their own ideas and opinions. I would tighten it to the no-play position because as it seats in running a few miles the end-play will increase. But that is just my opinion. JMHO.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Buy the washers ( at a trailer store) assemble it correctly

 

[Patfromny]

The washers protect the bearing and also help to keep the grease from flying out while the hub is spinning. I have always tightened the nut by hand. If you cannot do this without any back and forth play I would try the new nuts. I would guess that with the washer on the assembly your first position before you used the wrench will work. The washer will eat up the play you had before you used the wrench. Tightening the nut on the bearing will stress the bearing or even possibly bind it. Do not move forward without getting the washers.

 

[pckeen]

So should these hubs ever be mounted without a washer?

 

[Patfromny]

I would say no. It is a good way to lose all the grease in a hurry.

 

[pckeen]

Thanks - it seemed odd to me, given that every youtube video I have seen shows a washer - but when neither the original, nor the replacement came with a washer, I wasn't so sure. I'll pick up one from NAPA next week.

 

[Patfromny]

It is strange that a new hub wouldn't come with the washers. I don't think my bearing kit came with them either. But it came with new dust covers and two different rear seals. Pretty strange indeed.

 

[GA_Boater]

When I got a new axle and new hubs, the washer and nut came with the axle. The hubs were loaded hubs with the cotter pin and no washer.

 

[StarTed]

I've seen bearings that are pre-loaded and others that are not. If I didn't know for sure then I'd lean towards not.

I agree that washers are important. Unless you have information to the contrary I'd tighten by hand only after tightening them slightly by wrench while spinning the wheel then back off and hand tighten again for final. That way you'll make sure the bearings are seated fully.

Just my thoughts, others may have better ideas.

 

[fhhuber]

Get the washers.

Tighten the castle nut just until you have noticeable drag. Spin the wheel hard and it should stop in under 3 revolutions. Grab the tire and rock it as if wobbling wheel then see if it still drags. Repeat tighten and rocking till it doesn't change.

Then loosen just to where the wheel will spin several seconds and insert the cotter pin.

Appx 5 mi down the road feel the hub. A bit warm is OK... but it shouldn't be too hot to keep your hand on it.

 

[bruceb58]

http://www.championtrailers.com/pre-loading-trailer-wheel-bearings/

 

[robert graham]

I installed new hubs recently and tightened the castle nub just a bit snug....then drove the vehicle several miles, jack the wheel up, spin the tire by hand and re-check/re-tighten the nuts once again....seems after it's driven a ways the bearings sorta get seated and need tightening/adjusting......

 

[pckeen]

So how full of grease should I fill the hub? Just dissassembled the hubs on my second trailer, and both they, and the previous trailer were packed full of grease. Much of the grease in the boat trailer was still pink, and I haven't changed the grease on that trailer.....ever..... (I've had the trailer for 5 years, but it only gets about 20 miles of use each year). When I did the last trailer, I packed the bearing well, and smeared a lot of grease on the races and the spindle, but nothing like as much grease as was in the hubs before. I'm wondering if I should pump some more grease into them.

 

[Patfromny]

I don't know about bearing buddies having never owned them but when I pack my bearings I just make sure they are loaded up inside and out with grease and slather grease on the races and spindle. The bearing buddies might require you to fill the inside of the hub to work but I have never used them. Make sure the bearings are full of grease. I spin the bearing while holding grease to it. You might also want to bring them to your repair shop and they might have a packing tool. This pushes grease into the bearings. Spinning them a few times with grease held up to them works just fine though.

 

[bruceb58]

If you have Bearing Buddys, they need to be full. If you have ez-lube hubs, they need to be full too but that will happen naturally when you pump in grease until it comes out the front of the hub.

 

[jack daniels marine]

When the asembly is completely full of grease then you wont have pockets of water residing in there. For a boat trailer that sits mostly idle and where preservation is priority, full is best.
For other applications full may be too much , however as long as there are no seals that are going to suffer then completely full is ok. Just mop up any excess that squeezes out after the first run.

Also if buying washers, buy a couple of thicknesses. If you cant get the castleated nut to align up with a hole , then just swap thicknesses.

 

[bigdee]

About 1/3 full to leave room for heat expansion. Over filling tapered bearings is a BAD thing to do. I have seen machinery lock-up when tapered bearings were over greased. Now, on a wheel bearing the seals would blow out before this could happen. http://www.timken.com/en-us/solutio...apered_Roller_Bearing_with_Grease_English.pdf

 

[bruceb58]

Over filling tapered bearings is a BAD thing to do. I have seen machinery lock-up when tapered bearings were over greased.

Fortunately, not an issue with wheel hubs. They can be filled completely full with no bad effects. Wheel hubs rotate at a fraction of the RPMs that bearings in some machinery runs.

 

[bigdee]

I figured someone was going to argue that is why I posted the Timken link. I have seen a few blown or leaking hub seals because of this. Also seen bearing buddies pushed off of hub when they are over filled. You have to all room for expansion.