Adding an oil pressure switch to the remote filter adapter.

[Joshto]

Ever since I installed a temp/oil warning kit to my 3.0 (see the picture for reference), the brass fitting that goes into block has cracked three times (I cought it all three times before it drained all the oil into the bilge, last time it leaked nearly 2 liters while cruising). It appears that installing the oil pressure switch (nipple + T + switch + sender) extends the assembly to a point too far from the engine, so the engine vibration cracks the brass fitting at the base (see what's left in the block when it cracks). Last time it happened, I removed the nipple, T and the switch, and installed only the oil pressure sender so I could keep boating. But I'd like to add the switch again as it gives me peace of mind (alarm buzzer is loud).

I'm planning to install the remote oil filter kit in the picture, and I want to tap a hole on the side of the filter adaptor's brass block elbow (oil entry point to the filter - see red arrow), and then screw the oil pressure switch there.

Any reason not to do it? Any suggestions?

 

[Scott06]

Ever since I installed a temp/oil warning kit to my 3.0 (see the picture for reference), the brass fitting that goes into block has cracked three times (I cought it all three times before it drained all the oil into the bilge, last time it leaked nearly 2 liters while cruising). It appears that installing the oil pressure switch (nipple + T + switch + sender) extends the assembly to a point too far from the engine, so the engine vibration cracks the brass fitting at the base (see what's left in the block when it cracks). Last time it happened, I removed the nipple, T and the switch, and installed only the oil pressure sender so I could keep boating. But I'd like to add the switch again as it gives me peace of mind (alarm buzzer is loud).

I'm planning to install the remote oil filter kit in the picture, and I want to tap a hole on the side of the filter adaptor's brass block elbow (oil entry point to the filter - see red arrow), and then screw the oil pressure switch there.

Any reason not to do it? Any suggestions?

Ight be easier to use a short section of braided hose where the nipple is. Mount your sender and switch solidly to engine or bracket. Connect to oil block via a hose to take the weight off it and allow some flex . A place like McMaster car will sell hoses as will any hydraulic shop