Adding a Windlass....... wiring questions

[CurrentObsession]

Getting ready to install a windlass on my 1998 Sea Ray 290 Sundancer that never had a windlass.
Going with Lewmar V700G

I intend to use 6AWG wire for the power to the motor and a contactor solenoid to control it via low voltage switch at the helm and foot pedals at the bow.

My layout is: Rear Port side is where the batteries, breaker box (see pics), and the battery selectors are. Picture shows a spot on that breaker panel for Windlass, I assume this is where I can and should install the 35 amp fuse tied into the hot lead of one of the engine battery selector switches?

There appears to be extra wires (see pics) behind the panel. I wonder if they go up to the bow and helm and I wonder if I can use them for the lower voltage control wires?

Any suggestions and comments are welcome.

 

[Scott Danforth]

you can mount a circuit breaker in that hole.

 

[alldodge]

Agree, you want a breaker not a fuse. Fuse will react faster, but windless can draw heavy current when switched on

Don't know about the wires, but maybe searay can advise

 

[Scott Danforth]

I would run all new wires. 6 gauge would be about right.

 

[CurrentObsession]

you can mount a circuit breaker in that hole.

Yes, circuit breaker comes with the kit, I shouldn't have said fuse.

 

[tpenfield]

I installed a Lewmar V700 on my Formula 330. It was wicked fun

Here is a link to my thread of doing a bow roller and then finally a windlass:

https://forums.iboats.com/forum/gene...and-bow-roller

The main circuit breaker should go near the battery switch. You will also want to figure out how to best get the wiring from the stern area of the boat up to the bow. I found a wiring harness above the headliner in the cabin. So, a bit of cabin dis-assembly was in order. At the same time you can run the signal wiring to the helm and the toe switches.

The v700 comes with a 'kit' that has the solenoid. I think the best location for the solenoid is in the bow near to the windlass. I had a bulkhead behind the anchor locker, which did not have much mounted on it. So, that was the logical place.

The wiring, connectors and switches were a chunk of $$$, about as much, if not more than the windlass itself. You will want a good crimping tool for the #6 wiring. I both crimped and soldered the connections.

Certainly not a slam-dunk considering all of the things that need to be done in various parts of the boat, but well worth it in the end.

 

[alldodge]

Just as info and not to change your plans, but some boat manufactures place a AGM battery up by the windless. This allows the battery to be placed up close and only the relay and battery charger wires to go back toward the helm. Keeps the large cables down some

 

[tpenfield]

Quick Note:

Looking back at my anchor windlass thread, I considered the Lewmar V700, but got the Maxwell. Installation would be about the same with either.

 

[JoLin]

There appears to be extra wires (see pics) behind the panel. I wonder if they go up to the bow and helm and I wonder if I can use them for the lower voltage control wires?

Dumb question- have you stuck your head into the anchor locker to see if there's already heavy-gauge wiring run up there? Your boat is big enough and new enough for the factory to have (maybe) pre-wired it for a windlass. Just a thought.

 

[CurrentObsession]

Dumb question- have you stuck your head into the anchor locker to see if there's already heavy-gauge wiring run up there? Your boat is big enough and new enough for the factory to have (maybe) pre-wired it for a windlass. Just a thought.

Yes I have looked and there are no heavy gauge wires for powering the motor. I wonder though if the wiring harness has the smaller control lines run. I wonder where I can find the proper wiring diagram for my boat?