A nice tip but it’s not about stern drive storage in the up position

ESGWheel

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While the pic shows my just shrunk wrapped boat with the sterndrive in the up position the post is not about that. I understand a fully up leg is not ideal for storage with respect to the bellows but that is not the point. Instead, it is about the blue trailering clips. Before we became a seasonal with a slip, we spent years trailering the boat for hours to various locations. One of my concerns with this 2005 SX drive was what would happen if I had some sort of hydraulic failure and the drive came down. Hence the clips. But boy what a pain to get off! Simple solution was to drill a couple of holes and use some braded line to create a “pull loop”. I also strung them together making the overall installation, removal, and storage much easier.

With the drive fully up, I install them (with the line over the top of the prop) and do not lower the unit onto them. In other words, the drive is 100% being held up by the trim cylinders. Makes the clips easier to remove. And at every stop for gas, food, or rest, I always do a safety walk about that includes twisting the clips to see if they are still loose. If I ever found them tight then I know I am losing hyd. pressure and would investigate at the final stop. In all these years, has never happened.

Wanted to share and meant to do it some time ago.
 

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Chris1956

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Gee, when was the last time you were out boating and had a PTT failure? I have never had one in 50 years. I had some PTT units that leaked down over time, but no catastrophic failures.

Whereas your trailering clips are a nice blue color, I believe them to be superfluous.
 

Scott Danforth

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PTT cylinder seals last between 12-20 years. Reseal as needed and you don't need the trailing clips
 

Renken2000Classic

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I put a tie-down strap around mine hooked to the ski-tow thing for the first year or so I had it (like yours, not lowered onto the strap though). It just seemed like extra insurance or something.

Don't remember the exact thinking for discontinuing that, but do remember realizing that aerial lifts and that have you trusting your life, essentially, to one of those cylinders, if I'm seeing the mechanics of it right.
 

Lou C

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PTT cylinder seals last between 12-20 years. Reseal as needed and you don't need the trailing clips
I just rebuilt my trim rams this spring, one started leaking a bit the year before, I was shocked how long they lasted. The BRP kits are about $50 for each cyl, if the end caps come out off easily you can leave the trim rams on the transom mount no need to disturb the hydraulic line fittings.
If you’re leaving the drive up in storage check between the folds of the bellows for cracks, especially on the bottom. When you see those starting it’s time for a new bellows. Storing it with the drive down the Cobra/Volvo SX bellows can last as long as 10 years.
 

ESGWheel

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I figured this post would generate more on the “storage up” then the use of the clips themselves. But that is one of the benefits I value about this forum –> the varied experiences, perspective and knowledge that can be leveraged and gleaned even when you were not expecting it.

So here is more on my perspective regarding the clips:

We all accept varying degrees of risks based on our experiences. I have certainly dealt with hydraulics in one application of another, first as an auto mechanic, then as a submariner and now in manufacturing. When I first got this new to me boat, what caught my attention was the jousting the sterndrive must undergo during trailering road trips, especially in the potholed ridden area where I live. While not having years of experience with trim cylinders, I did know enough that a failure of an O-Ring or a leaking valve would be disaster towing at 60+ mph! Hence the clips. What is highlighted is not relieving the pressure on the cylinder (lowering the unit have its weight carried by the clips) b/c from my experience better to have pressure on the O-Rings and valves then not and as stated I would discover a leak if they were tight.

Not mentioned was the one time they were a lifesaver: I develop a trim hose leak at what I thought was the crimp connection that occurred after a couple of weeks of the boat at its seasonal dock (reservoir was down slightly with no obvious oil in bilge, so pulled the boat and found it). The local marina was flat out and could not address the issue for a couple of months, so had to trailer the boat 3+ hrs back home to do the work myself. In this case the clips did keep the unit up while trailering home and were neat tool to hold it up doing the work (link). Thank goodness I had them 😊

Whereas your trailering clips are a nice blue color, I believe them to be superfluous.
And that is the point of my doing this in the first place: a slow leak over many hrs of towing was my concern. In my mind’s eye I envisioned the disaster we had on a 13k mile trek with a Travel Trailer many years ago where one of the wheel bearings let go (new TT and only 2 weeks into the trip!) and I was only saved from losing a wheel by a passing motorist that honked repeatedly until I pulled over.

PTT cylinder seals last between 12-20 years. Reseal as needed and you don't need the trailing clips
The cylinders are now new on this 2005 boat, but not the trim pump, that is on the list at some point.

Don't remember the exact thinking for discontinuing that, but do remember realizing that aerial lifts and that have you trusting your life, essentially, to one of those cylinders, if I'm seeing the mechanics of it right.
In my years as an auto mech, I never went under a car on a lift unless the ratcheting safety device was engaged, a key safety feature of car lifts. And while I have only hyd jacks at home, I have never gotten under a car only supported by one. Always on a jackstand supporting full weight of the car and tested by pushing hard on the car.

If you’re leaving the drive up in storage check between the folds of the bellows for cracks, especially on the bottom. When you see those starting it’s time for a new bellows. Storing it with the drive down the Cobra/Volvo SX bellows can last as long as 10 years.
One of key learnings gleaned from this forum is the importance of the annual removal of the leg and inspection. I have left that to the marina in the past (bellows has been changed twice in the last 10 years) as I was not yet ready to pull it myself. Regardless I do look carefully based on comments like yours. And I now leave the drive fully down at the dock based on this forum.

More:
Next year, I do not expect to be boating due to family matters (daughter’s wedding!) so I have on my wish list a few things to do that include getting set up to pull the leg with an appropriate jack. Other items include a dual battery with an ACR, some gel work, replacing the stereo and the complete dash, adding a transom mounted transducer, all new hoses (water & gas) and more… but I digress.

Of note: I like to think in terms of fine wines: my boat, like my wife and I, only get better with age 😊
 

Chris1956

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So this went from a "how to get the trailering clips off easy" to a how long do the PTT cylinder seals last?

My point was that the PTT doesn't need trailering clips, unless you simply like the color of 'em. Bouncing down the road is less stress on the hydraulics than running across the water at 50MPH with the motor trimmed up all the way. Remember the hydraulics and check valves are sized to trim the motor at full power.
 

briangcc

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One of the last years owning my Four Winns, which had a SX drive, the drive would slowly drop from full up to full down. It'd take about 2-3 weeks sitting on a trailer to do it. I spoke with a marina about it and their advice was to leave it as is as it was a very minor issue at that point in time.

Traded that boat in on the Chap so I have no idea if the issue was ever addressed.

Never, ever, used trim clips. Even full down, there was plenty of clearance for the outdrive before it met pavement.

Same holds true for my current Merc Alpha One Gen II - no trailering clips. Would take a decent pot hole for the drive to contact pavement in the full down position. It's been tested - admiral and sons haven't quite figured out the full up position yet so its been retrieved with the drive down.
 

Lou C

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The advice I have read said that if you leave it full up don’t leave it fully up against the upper limit because that can cause the check valves in the pump to stick.
 

Pmt133

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The trim rams on my merc are still rocking the 40 year old seals. Maybe playing with fire... but no leaks yet. (probably just started now that I said that :LOL:) That includes 20 years wet stored in the salt drink... One of those things I'd never even give thought to worry about honestly...
 

Lou C

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If it ain't broke....keep on rockin'
it isn't that bad of a job as long as the end cap will come off, I used a bit of heat and constant pressure on the pin wrench.
 

Renken2000Classic

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Interesting thought about jarring during trailering; also about the forces on it when underway.

I was talking about aerial boom lifts; I've never gotten under a car w/o jackstands either.

I store mine with the drive down. Don't raise it all the way to trailer; not really necessary.
 

JimS123

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My University studies and my 45 years of Engineering experience has shown that addressing the worst possible scenario is the only way to go.

Obviously, a one-in-a-million plant failure can cost lives, while a failed boat trim cylinder will only cost money.

Surely, an outdrive up all Winter ain't the best way to go (for reasons mentioned above), but you also must look at another WPS. A buddy had his outdrive up because the shrinkwrapper guy would not come to his house. As it turned out heavy snow and some fallen branches cut the wrap around the prop. Water inside, freezing, and his lower unit was cracked. More $$$$.
 
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