A little help with a chevy 350

[jeeperman]

Re: A little help with a chevy 350

Stock type Melling brand lifters are $10 each at Autozone.

 

[captmello]

Re: A little help with a chevy 350

Thanks again for the feedback. I guess at this point, I'm inclined to leave the heads. Since the engines had the lifter noise, my buddy has been watching the oil and adding and changing the oil more frequently. He says the knock clears up after he changes the oil, only to return sometime later. Perhaps after it begins to get antifreeze in it????

Regarding the valve guides, perhaps they would leak less if the oil wasn't diluted in antifreeze. He also has been using some additives like Seafoam in the oil to try to fix the lifter knock which could also add to the thinning of the oil, who knows. He doesn't mind adding oil and I've insisted that he keep a close eye on everything now that I'm donating all this time and energy.

I found roller lifters on the summit racing site for 7.50 each. thats $125 for the set. I guess thats not to bad. However, I'm thinking we may be able clean the lifters simply by changing the oil and running the engine without antifreeze in the oil. So I'm thinking of not touching the lifters, like windsor03cobra suggested. Don't want to be lazy but...

We'll probably do the intake gasket next weekend. Weather permitting.

Thanks again for the help.

 

[captmello]

Re: A little help with a chevy 350

Stock type Melling brand lifters are $10 each at Autozone.

Thanks, it sounds like you've got the same job in your future.


Has anyone noticed Napaonline is gone. I used to use that quite often for price references.

 

[Gary H NC]

Re: A little help with a chevy 350

My bet is the lifter noise goes away after the gaskets are replaced.

The worst part of the job is unplugging everything and taking the big aluminum bracket off the front.Put a blanket on the passenger side fender and everything will lay over it out of the way.Looking at the engine it looks harder than it really is once you get started.
Good idea to replace those small rubber coolant hoses on the front while everything is out of the way.

 

[captmello]

Re: A little help with a chevy 350

My bet is the lifter noise goes away after the gaskets are replaced.

The worst part of the job is unplugging everything and taking the big aluminum bracket off the front.Put a blanket on the passenger side fender and everything will lay over it out of the way.Looking at the engine it looks harder than it really is once you get started.
Good idea to replace those small rubber coolant hoses on the front while everything is out of the way.

Gary, your bits of advise on the job itself are great. Anything to get us though this in the most efficient manner is greatly appreciated.

I wonder if you could comment on the R&R of the distributor and timing. I've done this on my boat but I don't have all the computer controls and such.

Thanks again.

 

[truckermatt]

Re: A little help with a chevy 350

Thanks again for the feedback. I guess at this point, I'm inclined to leave the heads. Since the engines had the lifter noise, my buddy has been watching the oil and adding and changing the oil more frequently. He says the knock clears up after he changes the oil, only to return sometime later. Perhaps after it begins to get antifreeze in it????

Regarding the valve guides, perhaps they would leak less if the oil wasn't diluted in antifreeze. He also has been using some additives like Seafoam in the oil to try to fix the lifter knock which could also add to the thinning of the oil, who knows. He doesn't mind adding oil and I've insisted that he keep a close eye on everything now that I'm donating all this time and energy.

I found roller lifters on the summit racing site for 7.50 each. thats $125 for the set. I guess thats not to bad. However, I'm thinking we may be able clean the lifters simply by changing the oil and running the engine without antifreeze in the oil. So I'm thinking of not touching the lifters, like windsor03cobra suggested. Don't want to be lazy but...

We'll probably do the intake gasket next weekend. Weather permitting.

Thanks again for the help.

getting the antifreeze out of the oil MAY help with the tick noise for a while but it will come back......

Mine has been doing to for 50.000miles and as long as it goes aways withing 10 seconds it doesnt do any harm... Its not that the lifter are broke, its that the oil drains back to the bottom of the engine and the clicking is from lack of oil... the noise goes away after the oil hits the lifters....

You said that oil was leaking by the bellhousing, but before you said no external leaks.... That is why a coolant pressure tester would help... mine was leaking by the bellhousing, but it turned out to be the block heater freeze plug right by the oil filter.... but it only leaked when the engine was warm... and while driving it sprayed everywhere, causing me to think it was the intake gaskets... but with the tester i could see it without running the motor.

but get the oil changed soon, and use and engine flush product for 10 minutes before you change to help flush it.

 

[jeeperman]

Re: A little help with a chevy 350

I am wondering to if a very high detergent content oil might help clean the sticky lifters?
If yes, any recommended brands?

 

[windsors03cobra]

Re: A little help with a chevy 350

A half a quart of ATF will really give a crankcase a good cleaning over an oil change cycle.

 

[captmello]

Re: A little help with a chevy 350

getting the antifreeze out of the oil MAY help with the tick noise for a while but it will come back......

Mine has been doing to for 50.000miles and as long as it goes aways withing 10 seconds it doesnt do any harm... Its not that the lifter are broke, its that the oil drains back to the bottom of the engine and the clicking is from lack of oil... the noise goes away after the oil hits the lifters....

You said that oil was leaking by the bellhousing, but before you said no external leaks.... That is why a coolant pressure tester would help... mine was leaking by the bellhousing, but it turned out to be the block heater freeze plug right by the oil filter.... but it only leaked when the engine was warm... and while driving it sprayed everywhere, causing me to think it was the intake gaskets... but with the tester i could see it without running the motor.

but get the oil changed soon, and use and engine flush product for 10 minutes before you change to help flush it.

So if the lifters aren't broke, what is the fix?

You're right about the external leak, antifreeze, I didn't find out about that until I went over to work on it. You're right, a pressure test would show me where that leak is, but it wouldn't show the internal leak. I know its high on the engine, dripping down the passenger side of the bellhousing. If changing the intake gasket doesn't solve it, We'll have to track down the leak.

I agree with the oil change/flush. thanks for the input.

 

[Autotech]

Re: A little help with a chevy 350

CaptM. Pulling Dist. is just like a boat: Remove cap, Mark Direction of rotor somewhere for reference to replace. This only works if crank is not turned during repair. If crank is turned you have to go though the process of putting #1 cyl. on TDC on compression stoke. Pretty simple if you can see the timing mark on Timing Chain cover. After everything is back together you need a scanner to syncroinze the crank and cam sensor. It must be on 0 to + or - 2degrees. Dist. must be loosened and turned to sync. sensors. after each movement of dist. RPM must go above 1000 rpm so ECM can recalibrate. Changes will be visible on scanner. In simple terms move dist slightly and goose it,check reading,repeat process until on 0 this is very sensitive so movement should be in small increments. It will crank and run if its not perfect but will run ragged as RPM increase or under load. It will also turn on Check engine Light and set a out of sync.code. If CEL does not come on you got if pretty darn close. Hope this helps.

 

[Jhoppy]

Re: A little help with a chevy 350

Here is the tips and tricks to Intake gaskets on the 350 Vortec.

Fel pro makes two different lines of gasket for that motor cheap for about $20 that are just like the originals with a plastic backing that failed. They also make a steel backed gasket wit allot more sealing surface, I think they were about $80 and will last allot longer and seal better. You chose what you want here.

You will have to remove the 4 bolts holding the ac compressor to the aluminum bracket and flip it over to the passengers side out of your way. When reinstalling this make sure the mounting bosses are clean on both the bottom of the compressor and aluminum mounting bracket. This type of compressor is easy to spring the case on, and then they leak. Also don?t over tighten the bolts there is no need to.

Remove the top of the fan shroud. There are 4 plastic reusable clips holding the to the bottom and two bolts holding the top to the radiator suport. This makes it alot easyer to remove the bolts holding the aluminum ac/ps bracket from the block. There is no need to remove the power steering pump from the bracket. Just remove the one bolt on the drivers side of the motor and 3 or 4 bolts in the front of the bracket and it should slide forward enough to get the manifold out.

You will only need to unscrew the top of the egr tube and the bracket that holds it to the intake and it should bend enough out of the way.

The drivers side valve cover will need to come off to allow clearance for the Intake to come out.

You will only have to remove the wiring connectors connected to the intake itself and then bungee cord the wiring harness to the windshield wiper so that is up and out of your way.

You do not need to separate the plastic upper manifold from the lower aluminum manifold it will all come out together.

The fuel lines have a 5/8 hex on the nut that holds the upper section of fuel line to the lower section of fuel line at the rear drivers side of the manifold un do both of them and also remove the one bolt and two nuts holding the upper section of fuel line to the manifold after cleaning around were the fuel lines slide into the fuel regulator. Removing the upper section of fuel line is not completely necessary but it dose make it easier to reinstall the manifold without it. There are less things to line up this way.

The distributor cap is marked as to what wires go where. You should only have to remove the wires from one side of The cap and flip it over to the other side. Mark the direction the rotor is pointing and mark the base of the distributor to the intake manifold so that you know exactly where the rotor is pointing and the distributor base is positioned and reinstall it exatly the same. This motor is very forgiving as to were the distributor is positioned, it only needs to be within 4 degrees plus or minus perfect because timing is based off the crank sensor not the distributor. If you get it off more than 4 degrees it will run but it will turn on the check engine light with a code for cam/crank sync. Then you will have to set the timing or have it set. But as long as you put it back in as you found it you sould be fine.

The Toque specks for the lower intake are in thee steps 27 inch lbs, 106 inch lbs, then 133 inch lbs. in the toque sequence.

Changing the oil is a must when you are done with the intake as the antifreeze in the intake will run into the crankcase when you remove it.

Flush out the Red dexcool antifreeze and use good old green. Your new gaskets will last longer.

The coolant connector at the front of the intake that the heater core hooks into allot of times leaks it might be the time to replace it too. But be prepared though they do brake off sometimes because they are made cheaply. New ones can be had at the parts store for 5-10 $

There is no rubber end seals for where the intake matches up with the block use silicone here. Also be careful not to scrape the silicone off when you reinstall the manifold. It is kind of awkward to set the manifold into position.

If the Mating surface of the cylinder heads or intake manifold are pitted very badly around the coolant passages you might have to put a very thin coat of silicone sealer on the surface of the head or intake for the gasket to seal to. but don?t do this unless it is pitted badly.

When you do remove the intake manifold do not leave it setting upside down for very long. Leaving the manifold upside down can cause the injectors to stick. I can not tell you why this is but I have been burned by the injectors in these sticking after gasket replacement.

I did not mean to write you a book but I hope this helps a lot.

Hoppy

 

[jeeperman]

Re: A little help with a chevy 350

Thanks Hoppy !!

 

[captmello]

Re: A little help with a chevy 350

Thanks Hoppy !!

Ya, thanks a lot. Thanks to everyone for the tips.

Now I can't wait to do it. Unfortunatly, I think it's going to have to wait for another week to get to it.

I'll post back when I'm done.

Good luck to you Jeeperman, when are you going to do yours?

 

[dr_bowtie]

Re: A little help with a chevy 350

I would separate the intakes and replace that gasket as well...the one I did had antifreeze in it and that was eating that gasket too and it was having sealing issues...

be careful on the distributor...the base is PLASTIC and they are 300.00 and the ears break off easily....the ones did on the one I did and rather than spend the 300.00 I modified it...

 

[Gary H NC]

Re: A little help with a chevy 350

The distributor was no problem as long as you mark everything.
Like already said the engine bases the timing off of the crank sensor.

I did use the coated metal Fel-Pro gaskets that i listed the part number for...about 70 bucks i think.

Good advice on replacing that heater hose quick connect that screws into the intake.Mine leaked after the gasket job so i had to replace it....
They are known to fail after the hose is unplugged.They are all plastic where the hose seals...Any parts house has them for 10 to 15 bucks..

 

[captmello]

Re: A little help with a chevy 350

Just wanted to update.

Finally got around to changing out the intake gaskets yesterday. Job went very smooth thanks to the info provided by fellow Iboaters. Took about 4.5 hours.

We were so well prepared for the job. Here's a couple of pics.

[/IMG]

[/IMG]

Thanks to everyone who took the time to share their personal experience with me. It made all the difference!!!!

Thanks again.And again.

 

[kamby]

Re: A little help with a chevy 350

Didn't GM have some issues with the Dexcool antifreeze, i had some service bulletin about it gelling up and eating at the gaskets ultimately ruining the engine, i seen the damage to a pickup truck at the shop with approx 100,000 on it. I guess now the recommendation is 75,000 or use the green stuff.

The truck had gelled up antifreeze in the radiator, in the block and heater core. Reason it was brought into the shop was the heat wasn't working

 

[j_martin]

Re: A little help with a chevy 350

If the piston on a lifter sticks, it's usually from oil contamination. It could be a failed check valve and it'll be flat till the oil rail to the lifters fills up. Neither situation is terminal. If it comes and goes, it's just the bad oil.

Fix the manifold leak. Change oil. After a hundred or so miles, change oil and filter again. If you want to use synthetic, go ahead. Don't waste the money on the 100 mile change. Use cheap dino oil for the first batch.

The lifter thing will probably go away. If it doesn't try one of the watery oil additives like sea foam, or wynns.

Nothing you can do to the engine will change the ticking lifter to find it. It's completely mechanical, and independent of cylinder pressure.

My 02
John

 

[captmello]

Re: A little help with a chevy 350

Didn't GM have some issues with the Dexcool antifreeze, i had some service bulletin about it gelling up and eating at the gaskets ultimately ruining the engine, i seen the damage to a pickup truck at the shop with approx 100,000 on it. I guess now the recommendation is 75,000 or use the green stuff.

The truck had gelled up antifreeze in the radiator, in the block and heater core. Reason it was brought into the shop was the heat wasn't working

Yes, for whatever reason the intake gaskets are an issue. the gasket we took out was obviously the cheaper option. It was thin and you could see where the gasket had a thin rubber strip in it that had slid in its groove on the gasket. those of you who have done this job know what I mean. We put the better, metal/rubber gasket set in. It looked so much better than the one we took out.

Adding the old green stuff to Dexcool is what couses the gelling up of the antifreeze. Don't make that mistake. we went back with dexcool since we were not flushing the entire system. Hopefully it lasts forever!!

I'll update this thread later as to whether the lifter knock goes away.

Thanks again for everyones help.

 

[Fl_Richard]

Re: A little help with a chevy 350

Did you try a heavier wieght oil. That motors got a ton of miles on it. If it were mine Id be running 20w50.

FYI- I AM NO EXPERT!