97 Bayliner 1950 Capri

[ImTheBiggerBoat]

Good morning. Looking for a 3-blade cruising prop to max out my engine. Current set up:
-1997 Bayliner 1950 Capri 19’
-Mercruiser 3.0 Lx
-Alpha 1 gen II outdrive
- Stock aluminum 3-blade (I believe 19-21” pitch. No markings on outside
- myself 280 lbs, wife, kid, cooler, etc 4,000 RPM WOT trimmed up @ 34 mph.
A buddy selling a SS Quicksilver 48 16316 A5 19P great shape with hub kit $100.
Thoughts?
I’d like to get a separate prop for tubing a d water sports as well. I’d appreciate any input

 

[Scott Danforth]

You are currently overpropped if you are only getting 4000 RPM

 

[ImTheBiggerBoat]

You are currently overpropped if you are only getting 4000 RPM

Understood. Anyone know the pitch of these original aluminum props from Mercruiser/Bayliner for these model boats?

 

[Scott06]

Understood. Anyone know the pitch of these original aluminum props from Mercruiser/Bayliner for these model boats?

Would think it would a 19” somewhere on it there will be some markings you may have to remove the prop and splined washer to see it down in the hub on top of it

first you want to verify the tach is accurate if it is truly only getting 4000 rpm then you are down on power or really over pitched

make sure from a tune up standpoint it is in good shape

For water sports you will want to go down in pitch probably a 17” . I had a 3.0 on a smaller boat went with two four blade Michigan vortex props 16” for skiing and 18” for general cruising and tubing

 

[flashback]

Ask your buddy to let you try the SS prop. I think that's the best way to see if it works for you.

 

[ImTheBiggerBoat]

Would think it would a 19” somewhere on it there will be some markings you may have to remove the prop and splined washer to see it down in the hub on top of it

first you want to verify the tach is accurate if it is truly only getting 4000 rpm then you are down on power or really over pitched

make sure from a tune up standpoint it is in good shape

For water sports you will want to go down in pitch probably a 17” . I had a 3.0 on a smaller boat went with two four blade Michigan vortex props 16” for skiing and 18” for general cruising and tubing

Engine is new refurbished from a Mercruiser dealer so this is me assuming it’s where it should be.

 

[ImTheBiggerBoat]

Engine is new refurbished from a Mercruiser dealer so this is me assuming it’s where it should be.

Tach is also new and accurate

 

[Scott06]

Engine is new refurbished from a Mercruiser dealer so this is me assuming it’s where it should be.

Wouldn’t assume anything, surprised a dealer would install a new engine and leave it only making 4 k rpm at wot. If you’re confident in the engine try to find prop markings or see if you can test your friends 19” prop.

 

[ImTheBiggerBoat]

Would think it would a 19” somewhere on it there will be some markings you may have to remove the prop and splined washer to see it down in the hub on top of it

first you want to verify the tach is accurate if it is truly only getting 4000 rpm then you are down on power or really over pitched

make sure from a tune up standpoint it is in good shape

For water sports you will want to go down in pitch probably a 17” . I had a 3.0 on a smaller boat went with two four blade Michigan vortex props 16” for skiing and 18” for general cruising and tubing

Borrowed the prop for testing run. Removed my original prop and saw just behind the aft adapter that it was a mercury 48-832832-C1-21, this explains the lag. I should get to within range at WOT now but only time will tell. Thanks for your help.

 

[Scott06]

Borrowed the prop for testing run. Removed my original prop and saw just behind the aft adapter that it was a mercury 48-832832-C1-21, this explains the lag. I should get to within range at WOT now but only time will tell. Thanks for your help.

A 21" in a 19 ft boat would be slow out of the hole for sure. The 19" should put you in the right direction unless it has a ton of cup (lowers slip and thus wot rpm). I would think you would gain 300 -400 rpm at WOT.

 

[Aledar]

May i jump into this Discussion? Not about props, but about the exact same boat. Bayliner Capri 1950..
How do you get the bilge pump out? Clearance between pump and oil pan is like 1/2 inch. Not enough to take it out in one piece. Or would you suggest putting in a 'store bought' model to replace it?
Thanks

 

[ImTheBiggerBoat]

May i jump into this Discussion? Not about props, but about the exact same boat. Bayliner Capri 1950..
How do you get the bilge pump out? Clearance between pump and oil pan is like 1/2 inch. Not enough to take it out in one piece. Or would you suggest putting in a 'store bought' model to replace it?
Thanks

So mine was shot when I got the boat. Ended up ripping it out and remounting it just beside the old spot on the wood blocking that was already in the bilge that was glassed and painted. Make sure you fill the old and new holes you create with 5200 to preserve the blocking. The newer bilges are fairly low profile comparatively so you can find something that works. Mine had a removable mounting base bracket that was very low profile so putting the bracket it was a breeze followed by just snapping in the new pump.

Edit* Make sure you get a bilge with the same outlet hose size that you currently have or you'll be replacing the hose and the starboard side flange where the water exits. I learned the hard way.

 

[Aledar]

So mine was shot when I got the boat. Ended up ripping it out and remounting it just beside the old spot on the wood blocking that was already in the bilge that was glassed and painted. Make sure you fill the old and new holes you create with 5200 to preserve the blocking. The newer bilges are fairly low profile comparatively so you can find something that works. Mine had a removable mounting base bracket that was very low profile so putting the bracket it was a breeze followed by just snapping in the new pump.

Edit* Make sure you get a bilge with the same outlet hose size that you currently have or you'll be replacing the hose and the starboard side flange where the water exits. I learned the hard way.

This pump wants to come out, but no room to pull it out of it's mount. Any pictures you can post?

 

[ImTheBiggerBoat]

This pump wants to come out, but no room to pull it out of it's mount. Any pictures you can post?

Here is the old and new bilge pump. As you can see it was actually under the oil pan too but installed closer to the transom, I had a little more room to work with which is ideal

 

[Aledar]

Here is the old and new bilge pump. As you can see it was actually under the oil pan too but installed closer to the transom, I had a little more room to work with which is ideal

Thanks. Yes, you've got room to spare. Looks like you had the same old one that I had. How many gph do you recommend?
Another question for you.. another topic.
I have been 'cleaning up my boat, fixing broke stuff' after being in storage for over a year.
I have been able to crank and start the engine. All of a sudden (this morning) .. the ignition switch doesn't work. No gauges, not 'crank'. I did find one blown fuse. Horn, Blower, Lights still work fine. But Have no idea what it goes to. Do you have a diagram of what each fuse goes to?

 

[ImTheBiggerBoat]

I'd love to help but in this thread i'd be the only one. I recommend posting a new thread with the topic, lots of good minds. First check the battery. If you have the exact same boat you can look under the helm or even pull off the helm gauge plate and follow the ignition wire to the fuse panel, it's a much thicker wire than the rest of them. I don't have a diagram, that's my method.

 

[vroom ZOOM]

My 1950 ran 4400 rpm with good holeshot with the blackmax 21p...